Removing the end-pin

bullmoose · #1 03-22-2007, 07:12 AM

My bandmates very kindly bought me the Gaines bass wheel

Only problem is that I can't remove my prong (or "end-pin" - I prefer "prong").

It extends so far and then there's obviously a retainer.

Is this going to need a luthier to withdraw the prong into the bass, remove it through the f hole & saw off the retainer or is there an easier way?

Thanks!

pat1151 · #2 03-22-2007, 08:36 AM

I didn't do this myself but this is what I watched my luthier do. You'll need to untie the wire which is holding the tail piece to the end pin socket (Loosen up your strings first) this should allow you to pull out the entire end pin assembly. Once everything is out you should be able to remove whatever is blocking the way by cutting it off or something. Once the blocker is off just stick it back in and tie up the wire again (and make sure the bridge is in the right place and tune the strings back up).

It seems simple, but I didn't like the idea of doing it myself since basses are such expensive instruments, I'd rather not make a mistake and screw something up. I would recommend sending it to a luthier, but that's just me.

**Damon Rondeau** · #3 03-22-2007, 08:59 AM

The endpin plug is held in there by the tension of the strings. That tension's gotta go before the plug comes out. Your soundpost, too, is likely to be a delicate fit and may easily fall without string tension pressing down on the bridge and top plate -- watch the post doesn't fall.

Depending on your endpin, you may be able to extract the thing through the inside of the bass but you would need the right tools and be confident you'll get the job done. Don't want that endpin rolling around loose inside the bass...

Tanglehead · #4 03-22-2007, 01:12 PM

I am by no means a luthier, so I'd suggest getting corroboration on this, but I seem to recall hearing about a similar situation many years back. One suggested answer was to extend the endpin as far as it would go, and if it's long enough to have more extra length than you'd ever need, you could cut the fully extended endpin off with a hacksaw right at the plug and pull the length of endpin out. Then you'd have a short stub of the very top of the endpin that could be extracted fairly easily through the F hole with the bass back-side up - like if you've ever dropped a pick inside the soundhole of a guitar...

As I said, I don't have any qualifications to back this up, and I'd only do it on my own bass if I was sure there was plenty of length to the endpin.

Has anybody else done this, seen this done, or heard about it?

-Tanglehead

Thomas Stone · #5 03-22-2007, 01:58 PM

That is exactly what I did before i had a new quality unit installed.

Pulled the pin out as far as i could.
Hack sawed through it.
I also filed a groove on the pin where I tightened it so as to eliminate slippage.

I removed the loose bit, now rolling around inide the bass, by taping a strong magnet to a drum stick and drew it out through the f hole.

10 minutes work, Jobs a good 'un.
No need to loosen strings etc.

Tom

**Damon Rondeau** · #6 03-22-2007, 02:15 PM

I like the magnet and stick idea -- use a good rare earth magnet (strong like bull) and a good long stick and you should be able to get it outta there without it rolling around in there. In that event, I wouldn't even bother with the hacksaw unless the endpin tip (without the crutch end or whatever's on there) doesn't go through the plug without cutting.

bullmoose · #7 03-26-2007, 11:18 AM

Thanks guys - I'll give that a go. It's a bit daunting but it's not an expensive bass (although it is my baby).

mojoluthier · #8 03-26-2007, 12:04 PM

The cut-off method works, but wastes the "prong". Removing the entire unit is not so hard, usually. To keep the sound-post in place, it is extremely likely that gravity will do the job if you merely set the bass on it's treble side and don't roll it onto the back while the tension is off. If your post falls out in that position it's just as well, as it was an inadequately well fit post.

If you are talking about the wheel that rolls along the ground to facilitate moving the bass around, I certainly recommend against those. One good bump can split your bass open like a clam.

Bob Branstetter · #9 03-26-2007, 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mojoluthier

If you are talking about the wheel that rolls along the ground to facilitate moving the bass around, I certainly recommend against those. One good bump can split your bass open like a clam.

I suppose anything is possible if you don't exercise any common sense, but I've yet to have to have a customer bring me a bass that had split open like a clam from using a wheel. Most of the good wheels either have some kind of shock mechanism or use larger wheels with an inner-tube. I've been using one myself for over 20 years. I only wish I had started using one earlier in my life. I think lugging around a bass in my younger days is what is responsible for most of the lower back problems I have today. Even in a worse case scenario, a broken bass is much easier to fix (or replace) than a broken back.

Martin Sheridan · #10 03-27-2007, 11:30 AM

Lay the bass on it's back in a safe place where you and the wife and kids and friends can't fall on it. Loosen strings, remove tailpiece, put out end pin assembly. The end pin has a little flange at the top which can be filed off or ground off on a bench grinder. Put it back in the bass, put on the tailpiece, set the bridge back up and you're good to go. If the endpin won't come out it might actually have been glued in, a no no, or the end pin block has swelled and you have a problem. In that case take it to your local bass luthier and he'll take care of it for you.

The reason to put the bass on it's back is that your soundpost is less likely to fall. If it still falls while the bass is on it's back then the post is too short or really poorly placed and you probably need a new one.

If you have a bass luthier in your area he should be able to do it while you wait.

Bob Branstetter · #11 04-05-2007, 04:29 PM

Although I've personally never had any damage as a result of using a bass wheel, I have had some customers who have damaged the cork lining of the endpin socket as a result of careless insertion of a wheel or possibly because the wheel shaft was not exactly the same size as the endpin rod. Kolstein has had a double wheel device that attaches on the outside of bass case across the lower rib for several years. Theirs is made of aluminum and uses velcro to attach it to the case. Today, I was talking with Anton Krutz of KC Strings. He told me about a new wheel device that they are making and marketing called a bass buggie. The KC Strings device has double wheels that are mounted outboard to a moulded plastic platform with straps which can be used either on the outside of the case or directly to the bass lower bout. The weight of the bass appears to be on the edge of the tables rather than on the rib. The device is shown on the KC Strings website. I have not seen the device in person yet, but if this device is made as well as their other products (C extensions, endpins, etc) it could be a great alternative to the conventional endpin single wheel.

Slapfiddle · #12 04-13-2007, 03:54 PM

I've been using the K.C. Strings bass buggie since it came out a month ago. It is very cool. So simple to put on, takes me 5 seconds. The wheels are absolutely top quality. The things I like best about it are: the endpin does not come out, and the bass stands up freely when not moving, plus the simplicity about it.