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Setup & Repair [DB] Exploring the issues involved in setting up and repairing basses, along with luthier recommendations.


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  #21  
Old 05-21-2009, 12:19 PM
Jake deVilliers's Avatar
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That's a really nice formula for a general cleaner Martin - I have a bottle of that myself.

Thanks for reminding me where I got it from.
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  #22  
Old 05-21-2009, 03:28 PM
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I will have to try that formula Martin. You have me curious. My formula has been:

6 Parts Naptha
3 Parts Xylene
1 Part Terps

This stinky stuff works quite well if it's nice and sunny outside.
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  #23  
Old 05-21-2009, 08:38 PM
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Location: emmitsburg, maryland
i do a lot of violins/violas,since they are played horizontally rosin builds up fast on the top and under the FB. i also have a limited amount of time to spend on each instr. so i do the unthinkable.. laquer reducer (mohawk #2255)
mind you,these are for the most part neglected school system instr. but still have to be presentable on the next go-around. this reducer will clean years of rosin in seconds..it will also cloud or melt 3 out of 10 finishes it is used on...so i am real fast @ rubbing out a top! i do the strings, end of FB, etc as well. it may not be the most friendly stuff to use but it is in the end a time saver.

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  #24  
Old 05-22-2009, 05:06 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Upstate, SC
Naptha MSDS- http://www.sciencestuff.com/msds/C2148.html

Xylene- http://www.sciencelab.com/xMSDS-m_Xylene-9927323

Turpentine- http://www.sciencelab.com/xMSDS-Turpentine-9925375

Denatured Alcohol-http://www.sciencelab.com/xMSDS-Alco...d_MeOH-9922820

Just for truth in advertising, not disagreeing with Martin. They are all solvents and dangerous.

Handle with care- use in a well ventilated area and use a respirator. Not a dust mask.

Martin- the reason that I suggest Naptha for Pops is that Pops is a petroleum product and Naptha takes it right off because it is a petroleum product. Also, it hasn't bothered any of the finishes I have tested it on, so most people won't end up messing up their finishes with it... ime.

Have you ever checked the ingredients in the commercial cleaners out there for sale? I have seen some people use them in practice rooms, right before concerts backstage, etc...

BG
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  #25  
Old 05-22-2009, 08:33 AM
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care

I wasn't trying to say that my formula wasn't hazardous in some way; it is, but I think it's less harmful than Xylene or Naptha.

With respect I don't think Pops is a petroleum product, e.g. made from oil, but a product made from the resin of pine trees. It may have some terpentine in it to soften it? My teacher used to make his rosin from the resin oozing from California pine trees in his back yard. It was almost exactly like pops. He'd add a little terps to it in the winter to make a softer batch. Terpentine is also a product from the pine tree.

I've become a little more sensitive to these issues. Like most people I thought I was indistructable when I was young. Now that my hearing is shot, probably from the high whine of some of the shop machinery, and I have gouty arthritis from the purines in meat, I recognize that there are things that can get you. One wiff of Xylene or naptha is enough to make me head for the hills.

In my formula both terps and alcohol are very hard on the skin.

Caution is in order.
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  #26  
Old 05-22-2009, 02:00 PM
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Location: Wisconsin
terps?

Pardon my ignorance, but is "terps" just a shortened way of saying turpentine? I would like to try making up some of Martin's formula. Thanks, Martin, for sharing this.

George
  #27  
Old 05-23-2009, 06:08 AM
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Yes. Terps is turpentine.
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  #28  
Old 05-23-2009, 09:58 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Sycamore, Illinois
forumula 1

Yes, terps is terpentine. You can use the better smelling synthetic.
For the alcohol use denatured unless you want to use Everclear.
Harry recommended pure linseed oil like the kind you get in a health food store, but I don't think it matters that much, because you are going to wipe it dry with a soft cloth afterwards, remember?

You can increase the alcohol content a little for really bad dirt buildup, but be very careful as alcohol can remove varnish.

I'd try it as written first. That works in almost all cases.
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  #29  
Old 07-28-2009, 11:53 AM
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Thanks to Martin for what looks like a well researched recipe. I just agreed to help a friend clean up a bunch of instruments, and he is using "Hans Weisshaar cleaner" made in Hollywood CA. It's good stuff, and I don't have a problem with someone charging a premium price for a good product, but we've got square meters to clean, and it costs more per ml than some illegal drugs. I took a whiff and said that I thought it was mainly naptha. (Some of my past jobs, unfortunately, have trained my nose to be able to identify organic solvents with fair accuracy.)

Anyway, to the question: These basses are mostly modern European, so the varnishes are fairly consistent. Should I: 1. pressure my friend to adopt Martin's recipe 2. Stick with the status quo, or 3. Is there a good third option?
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  #30  
Old 07-28-2009, 07:49 PM
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the more you have to do..the friendlier martin's looks...both co$t and karma..and don't dawdle with that rag..keep it uptempo.
  #31  
Old 07-29-2009, 01:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by forester View Post
...and don't dawdle with that rag..keep it uptempo.
That's my fear. A recipe with that much alcohol sounds scary for a spirit varnish. I bet it loosens the rosin right quick, though. Anyone have any other formulations they'd care to share?
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  #32  
Old 07-29-2009, 02:06 AM
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I cringe at the thought of putting all those toxic chemicals on a nice instrument. I'd go with citrus oil. Call me a hippie but hey, it does no harm (to you or the bass). It also makes your fingers smell nice for a day.
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