Replacing a crappy rattling endpin

[Whit Townsend]

The bass is a ply "Roma" that bassesonline was blowing out several years ago.
My buddy is a woodworker with a lathe and has offered to make me an oak pin to my custom length
.
I've never had this thing apart. Can he just use the plug that holds the metal rod as a pattern for the correct size and taper?

I've only replaced one wooden endpin with another on an old Kay. That was simple, just copy the old one and made it a little longer.

I'm not sure how these adj things are fitted. Would like an idea of what we're up against before tear it down.

Thanks

[fdeck]

Just a thought, my old bass had an end pin that was buzzing due to the portion that sticks up into the bass and is apparently for people who are 7 feet tall. I knocked off a couple inches with a hacksaw, and cured the buzz, probably by moving the resonance to a different frequency.

[Whit Townsend]

Originally Posted by fdeck

Just a thought, my old bass had an end pin that was buzzing due to the portion that sticks up into the bass and is apparently for people who are 7 feet tall. I knocked off a couple inches with a hacksaw, and cured the buzz, probably by moving the resonance to a different frequency.

Good idea. I may try that 1st. But Id still like a wooden pin like my old Kay. Think it will sound better.

So, can we just pattern the pin taper and placement of the groove for the tailpiece wire after the existing plug in the bass?

[powerbass]

check the hole in your bass to make sure it is not misshapen from wear and a sloppy fit, if the hole is not round you will need to ream the hole with a specific bass end pin reamer. if you use a wooden rod you will need to protect the wood with something that keeps the thumb screw from chewing up the wood-a small circle of plastic or metal will do

[Whit Townsend]

I don't plan on just replacing the rod. I want to replace the whole thing with a wooden peg of the correct length. Would not be adjustable.
Hopefully the hole taper is not misshapen. The bass. Is not that old.

[bssist]

Unless the plug is loose there is no reason to change it. Just turn down your oak to fit in the plug. Leave the exposed portion larger and of the length you want. Not only will you not have to mess with the plug but you can turn several different pins and compare and change them out depending on your needs and mood. I have a purpleheart pin I use for playing accoustically with a piano and a hickory pin I use for playing amped with drums and guitar.

[Whit Townsend]

^Good idea bssist, thanks.

The screw that locks the pin in- anything special you do to that, perhaps cut a groove, or just bury the screw in the wood?

Ever had one snap off?

[bssist]

So far - so good. I've had no problem with either one snapping off. The reduced shaft into the collar is 1/2". You could put a steel ring around the shaft to keep from chewing up the wood but I didn't. I don't tighten it all that tight, just till I feel it bite. It has never come loose during use and has never rattled. It is a fairly good fit through the collar so it doesn't need much to hold it in place. I really like being able to change the sound of the bass by swapping endpins. I turned down about a dozen before I found what I liked.

While your buddy has the lathe running have him turn some hickory for you. It worked better than oak on my bass (yours may be different). I would like to find some osage orange to try, I've heard good things about it.

Good luck, let me know how it turns out.

[eerbrev]

to make trial fits etc, for testing, you could also use birch. not exactly known as a tone wood, they use it for broomsticks for its strength and resistance to breakage over time. I had an endpin made from birch on my old bass for a while and it was great. My father and I made it non-adjustable (as you seem to be planning to) and fit a bolt with the same diameter and thread as my old endpin so that I could use the same screw-on rubber stoppers.