Replacing Fingerboard on Cheap Bass with Good Fingerboard?

Jazzin' · #1 09-01-2006, 08:55 AM

Is it first of all a good idea to replace the cheap immitation ebony fingerboard with a new real ebony fingerboard? My current FB is beveled under the E string. If I were to replace it, I would want a regular shape perfectly curved.

Here's a picture of the shape of my bridge...

-So is it a good idea?

-Would I need a new bridge, would the bridge have to be modified or can I just continue with the same bridge?

-How much would it cost for a luthier to do the whole job?

Mike Crumpton · #2 09-01-2006, 10:25 AM

It might not be the highest quality wood but to my eyes that could be an ebony board - what make you think it isn't? Lots of 'ebony' isn't uniformly jet black. Laminated Strunals are advertised as having ebony boards I note. It looks like the board on my bass - like clarinets it was dyed black until the luthier shot it with a plane and then it looked like yours (but cleaner :-))))

Jazzin' · #3 09-01-2006, 10:33 AM

I would still prefer a much higher quality ebony fb.

toman · #4 09-01-2006, 12:15 PM

Go for it. I say buy the best fingerboard you can find, and get the best luthier to put it on; it's worth the dough. Looks like your bridge has enough meat on it that it could be cut to match a new fingerboard too. One thing I'd look into is the graphite fingerboards. I love those things.

GriffithLea · #5 09-01-2006, 01:58 PM

Quote:

My current FB is beveled under the E string. If I were to replace it, I would want a regular shape perfectly curved.

About that - does anyone know why the fingerboards of many basses are flat under the E? I've never liked it that way. I'm looking forward to getting my Solano this fall/winter, which will be curved all the way across.

Bob Branstetter · #6 09-01-2006, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toman

Go for it. I say buy the best fingerboard you can find, and get the best luthier to put it on; it's worth the dough.

IMO, a better choice would be to find the best doublebass luthier in your area and then have that luthier get you the best fingerboard that is within your budget. Few players have the expertise to know what to be looking for in a good fingerboard. Experienced bass luthiers usually have suppliers they trust and know from past experience that they will be getting a consistant high quality product. In addition, many times it ends up being cheaper for you to get your board from the person who is going to install it. Buying a fingerboard mailorder can be an expensive gamble and I prefer to do my gambling in a casino.

Jazzin' · #7 09-01-2006, 02:39 PM

I would for sure have the luthier find a board.

I still haven't decided how much I'll be willing to pay for this. I'll probably ask for this as a birthday (December 17th) gift, hehe. I'm not in a rush.

toman · #8 09-01-2006, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Branstetter

IMO, a better choice would be to find the best doublebass luthier in your area and then have that luthier get you the best fingerboard that is within your budget. Few players have the expertise to know what to be looking for in a good fingerboard. Experienced bass luthiers usually have suppliers they trust and know from past experience that they will be getting a consistant high quality product. In addition, many times it ends up being cheaper for you to get your board from the person who is going to install it. Buying a fingerboard mailorder can be an expensive gamble and I prefer to do my gambling in a casino.

Actually, that's more what I meant. Just didn't come out properly...

Obviously Joe Bass Player isn't going to have a source for top notch fingerboards.

Michael Case · #9 09-02-2006, 05:55 PM

I replaced the board on my Strunal 5/35 and have been very happy with it. They are good basses and if you like your bass now then go for it.

Jazzin' · #10 09-02-2006, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mike da mook

I replaced the board on my Strunal 5/35 and have been very happy with it. They are good basses and if you like your bass now then go for it.

Cool.
Details? Was the board beveled before or after? Did you have to change/modify your bridge?

Michael Case · #11 09-03-2006, 06:41 PM

The old board was beveled, and all I had done to the bridge was add shims to raise it up a bit (I had a new bridge made a year before the board was replaced). My old board was good ebony, but it was too thin from the set up I had done when I first purchased the bass. Now my Strunal plays and sounds better than ever. I'm very happy with the work.

WillBuckingham · #12 09-03-2006, 06:50 PM

I can't tell from that picture. But depending on the thickness of the fingerboard, you might be better off having it replaned to your liking and saving up for a better bass.

EDIT: By the way, that is an ebony board, right? Is there anything wrong with it besides the shape?

Michael Case · #13 09-03-2006, 06:59 PM

I do have to agree with with Will. The main reason I replaced my board was because it was way too thin and the scoop was way too deep. Plus I didn't see a new bass in the near future and the money I spent on the board was all I had at the time (I am a student trying to live on gig money). If the original board was thicker I would've just had it re-shaped. With that said, I also felt the bass was giving me enough soundwise to further invest in it and for me it paid off. If you take the plunge, make sure you are satisfied with your bass before having the work done.

all_grown_up · #14 09-03-2006, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toman

Go for it. I say buy the best fingerboard you can find, and get the best luthier to put it on; it's worth the dough. Looks like your bridge has enough meat on it that it could be cut to match a new fingerboard too. One thing I'd look into is the graphite fingerboards. I love those things.

I just had a new Ebony FB (Lemur Music mail order best quality) put on my UB and the improvement was immense. However, I didn't know they made graphite FBs for URB. Where do you get them? I have some EBs with Graphite necks and they are notable for their sustain and lack of dead spots.

Michael Eisenman · #15 09-17-2006, 11:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by all_grown_up

. . . I didn't know they made graphite FBs for URB. Where do you get them? I have some EBs with Graphite necks and they are notable for their sustain and lack of dead spots.

Try Moses Graphite.

Michael

JimmyM · #16 09-18-2006, 12:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GriffithLea

About that - does anyone know why the fingerboards of many basses are flat under the E? I've never liked it that way. I'm looking forward to getting my Solano this fall/winter, which will be curved all the way across.

It's called a bevel, and the reason is because it gives the E string more room to travel without banging into the FB and buzzing while still being able to keep the action low enough. I totally freaked out at first when I got my Upton because it's got a pretty large bevel, but now I dig it and I kind of miss it when I have to play rentals with a smaller or no bevel. Some people love the bevel, some people hate it, some people don't care one way or the other.

As for the FB, I'm very much in the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" category. This comes from fixing stuff that ain't broke only to break it. But it's your bass, and if makes you feel better about it, so be it.

toman · #17 09-18-2006, 01:34 AM

I can't stand the bevel. If the fingerboard is properly setup, it's not necessary, and it just bugs me.

On the other note, I'd like to hear more about graphite fingerboards. I've played them on cellos, but not basses. I hear they may be flexy on bass applications, but if they're as good on basses as thery are on cellos, I'm sold. In my experience, they're every bit as good as the best ebony board...

Jazzin' · #18 09-18-2006, 08:12 PM

I find the bevel makes my A string hit the FB more often since the FB is highest under the A. I often hear a "clank" sound when I play the A too hard.

#19 09-18-2006, 10:32 PM

Jazzin,

I replaced my fingerboard on my bass and it was fantastic, but I replaced it because I didn't have much fingerboard left. The only problem is that it is quite pricey, I think I paid around $1000 CAD. Have you considered to having the bevel shaved out (as bob mentioned)? Basically you would be having your fingerboard dressed ( and this would cost you at most around $300. From seeing some of your previous posts, it sounds like you have a fairly new bass and I'm fairly sure you have alot of fingerboard to work with. Also I would look in the book and go see either Forget or Mario Lamarre for the work. Just my two cents, hope it helps.