Quote:
Originally posted by Bob Branstetter
The problem with the "poor man's wedge" is that it makes neck that much thicker down near the heel of the neck and makes it harder to play downd there. In a true wedge, you reshape the neck itself so that it is the same thickness and shape as it before the wedge was inserted. Unfortunatey, that's not inexpensive nor reversible. |
Yeah well I guess it depends on how much is much. Going from zero at the nut to 3/16" at neck heel will give you around 3/8" extra height in the bowing area, about the range required for extra bow clearance. That's not too obnoxious. It improves playability in thumb position by bringing the string line further out from the upper bouts.
I prefer shims on thin neck basses from playability and a structural, and acoustic standpoints. A maple shim with a nut to heel taper of 3mm to 5mm does wonders for those spindley Kay, Englehardt and other student size necks.
This upgrade can make the bass sound better. I think part of it is because it forces a higher bridge to drive the "sturdy" top harder, but it also seems to give these basses a more solid tone with more sustain, much like you'd expect from a heavier fingerboard.
You can also plane the shim with X-axis taper to improve f/b accessability without cutting meat off the f/b. This however wouldn't improve jonnyell's dilemma with clearance at the c-bout.
I think this upgrade is usually more prudent structurally and financially than opening the bass up and pushing the neck forward or rechopping the neck block.
