Seam Repair Kit from Lemur

bobbykokinos · #1 07-30-2006, 06:33 PM

Does anyone have the instructions that go with it and can email it to me? I ordered the kit but didnt get instructions and I need to fix a seam before a gig tomorrow.

Thanks!

reedo35 · #2 07-30-2006, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobbykokinos

Does anyone have the instructions that go with it and can email it to me? I ordered the kit but didnt get instructions and I need to fix a seam before a gig tomorrow.

Thanks!

No, I don't have the instructions, but I have done quite a few seam repairs with that kit. First of all, where s the seam open? On the lower bout? Have you ever done this before? (Obviously not, since you're asking for instructions..Duh!

) Okay, it's pretty simple. Do they still give you a glue knife with that kit or not? If Not, get a small putty knife, or a butter knife to spread the glue around.
First thing, wet the area to be clamped with a warm cloth.This will make it easier to remove the old glue. After you wet it down, use the knife to scrape away the old glue. They don't say this in the instructions, but I like to do a "dry run" with the clamps before I use any glue. Clamp it down (NOT TOO TIGHT), and make sure wood meets wood. If not, more water and scraping.
If yes Take the hide glue, put it on the knife, and smear it on the Areas you want to stick together. Clamp it down snugly (NOT TOO TIGHT!) You will get some excess glue coming out of the seam . Wipe it away with the cloth and the water so it looks clean. make sure your clamps are evenly placed to distribute equal pressure. Leave it alone it should be ready by tomorrow. Unless you are playing in the hot sun.

In that case, Good Luck!

bobbykokinos · #3 07-30-2006, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reedo35

No, I don't have the instructions, but I have done quite a few seam repairs with that kit. First of all, where s the seam open? On the lower bout? Have you ever done this before? (Obviously not, since you're asking for instructions..Duh!

) Okay, it's pretty simple. Do they still give you a glue knife with that kit or not? If Not, get a small putty knife, or a butter knife to spread the glue around.
First thing, wet the area to be clamped with a warm cloth.This will make it easier to remove the old glue. After you wet it down, use the knife to scrape away the old glue. They don't say this in the instructions, but I like to do a "dry run" with the clamps before I use any glue. Clamp it down (NOT TOO TIGHT), and make sure wood meets wood. If not, more water and scraping.
If yes Take the hide glue, put it on the knife, and smear it on the Areas you want to stick together. Clamp it down snugly (NOT TOO TIGHT!) You will get some excess glue coming out of the seam . Wipe it away with the cloth and the water so it looks clean. make sure your clamps are evenly placed to distribute equal pressure. Leave it alone it should be ready by tomorrow. Unless you are playing in the hot sun.

In that case, Good Luck!

Now my kit came with dry hide glue and glue in the bottle.. Whats the difference?

bobbykokinos · #4 07-30-2006, 07:54 PM

Here is a photo of the broken seam

reedo35 · #5 07-30-2006, 08:25 PM

Looks like it was repaired before. The bottled glue is just liquid hide glue and it is a bit weaker than the granular hide glue, which is okay. The granular glue takes some preparation, but is very strong.The liquid stuff, is actully better in a way for seams because it allows them to pop intstead of not giving and cracking the wood.
BTW, that pic is a perfect example of putting too much glue in the seam, which is why it opened up below that repair.

bobbykokinos · #6 07-31-2006, 12:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reedo35

Looks like it was repaired before. The bottled glue is just liquid hide glue and it is a bit weaker than the granular hide glue, which is okay. The granular glue takes some preparation, but is very strong.The liquid stuff, is actully better in a way for seams because it allows them to pop intstead of not giving and cracking the wood.
BTW, that pic is a perfect example of putting too much glue in the seam, which is why it opened up below that repair.

Well, I went ahead and used the liquid on it. I put some on the knife and slid it into the seam. While it knife was in the seam, and it opened it up a bit, I dropped a bit more glue is so it would seep in a bit. There was one part that was cracked but I could fit the knife it, so I dropped a little glue on the outside of the crack hoping it would drop in a bit.

Its on the clamps now, so I'll see how it turns out tomorrow. Knock on wood (pun intended), this is the first seam break in a year of having the bass and playing indoors and outdoors constantly. I knew it was going to breaks because the last couple gigs I've played were outside, very hot, and humid..

Maaaven · #7 07-31-2006, 04:09 PM

In your picture, it looks like the failed seam is at the
rear of the heel of the neck. That is a problematic area
that often requires professional help.

bobbykokinos · #8 07-31-2006, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maaaven

In your picture, it looks like the failed seam is at the
rear of the heel of the neck. That is a problematic area
that often requires professional help.

That is where its at..

My bass is going to be sent in for a full setup here soon. I'm just trying to find one week that I'm not playing so I can send it off. Unfortunately (or, actually, Fortunately), I'm playing quite a bit lately and haven't had time to take it in. Once I do take it in, I'll have them take a look at it..

Dave Whitla · #9 08-02-2006, 04:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maaaven

In your picture, it looks like the failed seam is at the
rear of the heel of the neck. That is a problematic area
that often requires professional help.

I agree. It looks like the button (the roundy bit that butts up against the back of the neck) is unglued. From what I understand, the button is critical to holding the neck in place.

I'd get it checked out ASAP. Borrow a bass for a few days if necessary.

Paul Warburton · #10 08-02-2006, 04:34 AM

Did you check to make sure that the neck isn't loose? If it is, get a loaner, and take the tension off as soon as possible and get the bass to the nearest luthier!

bobbykokinos · #11 08-02-2006, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul Warburton

Did you check to make sure that the neck isn't loose? If it is, get a loaner, and take the tension off as soon as possible and get the bass to the nearest luthier!

Not really sure how I would check if the neck is loose...

tbassist4 · #12 08-02-2006, 11:25 AM

Well, there's no real way to tell exactly. I do need to share a story, not to scare you, but just to tell you the importance of the button (so thaaaats what it's caaallled....). My bass teacher plays in the North Dakota Symphony orchestra or a group like that, I forget which, but they were just about to begin a concert. He saw some separation there a few hours before. It was too late to get his bass in, so he figured it would be okay to just leave it.

He played through the whole concert, then right after it was finished, he loosened tension on the strings right away and ran it to the nearest luthier. The luthier talked to him after the repair was done. He said, "You don't know how lucky you were..." Aparently the only thing that was still attached to the neck were two pieces of ebony that ran down each side of the heel of the neck. The luthier said it could have given way at any moment. So needless to say, that part of the bass is very structurally important.

Mine had some separation there just a while ago, and actually, it stayed that way for a long time. I was so busy with things that I had no time to get it in, but it showed no signs of giving way. There are two obvious signs, one being if the gap increases, haha, and the other if your bass constantly drops flat like never before. If this happens, then drop tension and bring it in right away! Anyways, so after a really long time, probably a few months (don't worry, I watched it carefully, my bass is my baby) I finally brought it in. The luthier checked it out and said that my neck was perfectly sound, even with that part being separated. He said the glue was holding just fine. So he glued up the gap and gave the whole bass a check for any other issues, and was done in around 30min and however long the glue took to dry...I don't know if it took much longer, but I couldn't pick it up that day anyways.

So the other thing to say is that this is something to be taken on a bass by bass basis. I wouldn't risk it, even if mine started to separate again, I'd still bring it in. It's a very cheap and very fast process, so don't risk it. Also I might add that if anyone is in the Minneapolis, Minnesota area that they should check out Quinn's Violins, they are very good. They took my ebay bass from a block of wood to an absolute beauty for a student bass, wow, that was a MAJOR job, but anyways, I highly recommend them, they do a wonderfully professional job on everything. Well there's my two cents, hope I helped in some way, haha.

**Matthew Tucker** · #13 08-02-2006, 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave Whitla

From what I understand, the button is critical to holding the neck in place. .

I've heard that too, but I suspect it is more true for a violin where the button is proportionately much much larger.

Paul Warburton · #14 08-03-2006, 03:41 AM

The obvious way to tell if the neck is loose is that the bass won't stay in tune.

EFischer1 · #15 08-03-2006, 05:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul Warburton

The obvious way to tell if the neck is loose is that the bass won't stay in tune.

Ah, so THATS why it sounds funny when I play bach...

But, seriously, I just ordered one of these kits. Does anyone have a positive or negative story about them? Are they total poo, or will they suffice?

bobbykokinos · #16 08-03-2006, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul Warburton

The obvious way to tell if the neck is loose is that the bass won't stay in tune.

Well, its been several days since I repaired the seam and it's staying in tune just fine..

reedo35 · #17 08-03-2006, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EFischer1

But, seriously, I just ordered one of these kits. Does anyone have a positive or negative story about them? Are they total poo, or will they suffice?

The Clamps are pretty much standard as you would see in any repair shop. According to Bobbyk, they also give you both liquid and granulated glue, so you have a choice, and I think they still include a glue knife. So you already have what you need to fix a simple seam separation. The only variable between it being a blessing or total poo is YOU.