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Setup & Repair [DB] Exploring the issues involved in setting up and repairing basses, along with luthier recommendations.


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  #1  
Old 12-20-2005, 02:32 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
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SECOND OPINION PLEASE

heres the deal friends...
chinese plywood upright (yeh)
the fingerbang (painted/ebonized maple) has warped beyond the joint of the neck butt.
i have two ideas for the remedy
the guy that wants me to do it for him asked me to plane it down flat
(his main concern is the buzz;who am i kidding, the string is pressed right against the board playing an F)
i personnally think removal of wood is the last thing id want to do.
my best idea would be to bend it down w/clamps flat and add a securing peice in the back of some hard curly our something.
??????
i think thats my best bet never having done this
but i was also worried about hiding it ,i plan to do this with the bass all
intact, only removing the strings

if anyone has any tips id like to get some repair examples to help me know what to expect
thank you
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  #2  
Old 12-21-2005, 11:00 AM
Supporting Member/Luthier
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
I'm trying to translate here...

You've got a bass with an ebonized board that is warped, and when you play an F (on the G string?) the string is flat on the board and it buzzes.

It sounds like the board has no "camber" or "scoop". The length of the fingerboard is not flat, but rather lightly scooped. If you lay a long straightedge (3 or 4 feet) over the length of the fingerboard, you should see daylight up and down the board, under the straightedge.

You don't have any experience with this... what experience with bass setup do you have?
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  #3  
Old 12-21-2005, 03:33 PM
Jeff Bollbach Luthier, Inc.
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: freeport, ny
Yes, please glue a hard curly on the fingerbang.
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  #4  
Old 12-21-2005, 03:37 PM
Jeff Bollbach Luthier, Inc.
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: freeport, ny
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicklloyd
I'm trying to translate here...

You've got a bass with an ebonized board that is warped, and when you play an F (on the G string?) the string is flat on the board and it buzzes.

It sounds like the board has no "camber" or "scoop". The length of the fingerboard is not flat, but rather lightly scooped. If you lay a long straightedge (3 or 4 feet) over the length of the fingerboard, you should see daylight up and down the board, under the straightedge.

You don't have any experience with this... what experience with bass setup do you have?
Actually Nick, I think he is describing too much camber with a low bridge height. The strings are on the end of the board. Thats why he wants to BEND IT DOWN! and secure it with a hard curly! I'm sorry, but this is just too funny.
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  #5  
Old 12-21-2005, 04:20 PM
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Owner: Ken Smith Basses, Ltd.
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Perkasie, PA USA
Cool Camber?

I think its Way beyond Camber at this point. Sounds like the end of the Fingerboard is growing upwards towards the Sun for more nourishment. Donate it to a Skateboard park. It will make a nice Ramp for Rollerbladers. Rip off the Board because it will continue to pull what ever you glue to it. You can also damage the Bass while working on it as well. There are things about the Bass you don't know about and won't know until something breaks. Then Daylight will shine on your project! Get a real Fingerboard in Morado/Pauferro that will be an upgrade and more stable over time. This will be the same or less labor overall.

Also, Curly maple is one of the worst woods for Stability as far as Necks and Fingerboards go.

BTW, if you have to ask, then take it to a Luthier to get it done correctly. You can easily break more than you fix.. That's my advice.. Seriously.. This is not a do-it yourself instrument.

Last edited by KSB - Ken Smith : 01-05-2006 at 05:46 AM.
  #6  
Old 12-21-2005, 09:18 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Alexandria, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Bollbach
Yes, please glue a hard curly on the fingerbang.
I needed that!
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