Shorten adjustable bridge?

RustyAxe · #1 07-21-2010, 05:36 PM

My adjustable bridge (aluminum adjusters) is down as low as it'll go, and it's still a tad too high for my liking. Must I replace it, or can it be shortened at the adjuster and re-tapped for the adjuster screw? I would think that because it's at its lowest there would be a little room for fudging it.

**Matthew Tucker** · #2 07-22-2010, 02:04 AM

sure, you can cut a little off the foot at the adjuster, or you can deepen and re-cut the crown on the bridge. You may not need to re-tap the screw thread. Be careful/

If the string height was OK before, but not now, then something may be changing and perhaps a visit to luthier would be advisable. The brisge adjustment is a quick one for a lutheir anyway.

Greg Clinkingbeard · #3 07-22-2010, 06:39 AM

I successfully cut 5mm off the bridge just above the adjuster with a compound miter saw.
As Matthew says, be careful. This will not be a big deal for a luthier. I'm not one, although I play one on the internet.

Square Bear · #4 07-22-2010, 06:43 AM

my understanding is that you don't ever want the adjusters down all the way. it's a simple and inexpensive task for a luthier, and they can look your bass over to make sure everything else is optimal.

ovelhaaa · #5 07-22-2010, 06:45 AM

Do your bass have a bolt on neck?
If it does, maybe you could try to shim it with a business card or a thin piece of wood.

Greg Clinkingbeard · #6 07-22-2010, 07:57 AM

Lost?

RustyAxe · #7 07-22-2010, 08:26 AM

Nothing has changed, I'm just finding out what I like (I'm only a bit more than a year into the DB thing) by playing other basses. The setup and neck are fine, with this one small exception. The adjuster isn't tight to the bottom, just about a thread showing. I had lowered that myself a few months ago.

The bass was just at the luthier's place a few weeks ago when I got new strings. Had him give it the once over, adjusted the sound post, etc, since I bought it new from him last year. I didn't even think about the bridge height at the time. It's a 45 minute drive to his shop ... maybe I'll just take a ride.

Cody Sisk · #8 07-22-2010, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Square Bear

my understanding is that you don't ever want the adjusters down all the way. it's a simple and inexpensive task for a luthier, and they can look your bass over to make sure everything else is optimal.

+1
I like my adjusters to "float" a bit. I make ground zero pretty low to the fingerboard. The only way to do this properly is to adjust the bridge from the top. If you make the arching squatty by cutting the legs, I just don't think it will look right, and might not sound right either..

Cody Sisk · #9 07-22-2010, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RustyAxe

Huh? I don't live on the forum, y'know. Just pop in daily.

He's referring to the above post (ovelhaaa) that he thinks might be someone who strayed over here from the bass guitar realm. However, if he's truly talking about a double bass, he's referring to the unlikely possibility that you have a bolt-on neck. I'd say 99% of the double basses out there don't have one. The question is a little far fetched..

RustyAxe · #10 07-22-2010, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DallasStrings

He's referring to the above post (ovelhaaa) that he thinks might be someone who strayed over here from the bass guitar realm. However, if he's truly talking about a double bass, he's referring to the unlikely possibility that you have a bolt-on neck. I'd say 99% of the double basses out there don't have one. The question is a little far fetched..

I see, I misunderstood. It's funny, there's a guy in the Bridgeport area who is a bluegrass regular, he plays what appears to be a very old Kay, and the neck is held on with a stove bolt ...

Square Bear · #11 07-22-2010, 10:05 AM

what part of CT are you located? there may be a closer luthier to you. it's a really simple job and you don't necessarily have to go to your usual guy. you can probably get it done while you wait too, it should only take a few minutes to file down the slots. i'm assuming you use a ply? if you have a carved bass you should expect the wood to to be expanding in this humidity, which would definitely explain the higher action.

RustyAxe · #12 07-22-2010, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Square Bear

what part of CT are you located? there may be a closer luthier to you. it's a really simple job and you don't necessarily have to go to your usual guy. you can probably get it done while you wait too, it should only take a few minutes to file down the slots. i'm assuming you use a ply? if you have a carved bass you should expect the wood to to be expanding in this humidity, which would definitely explain the higher action.

Yeah, the bass is a Strunal 50/4 all ply. The string height has not changed, but the new Spiro Mittels seem to have more tension than the Obligatos I had previously, and it seems to take more left hand effort (not to mention the beating my right hand is taking ... grin!). According to what I gather here, my string height at the end of the fingerboard is about average. I do like to "dig in", but my pull is parallel to the board, and it seems I'd have plenty of room before I'd get any buzzing. I go to Mike Asetta in Middle Haddam btw.

Greg Clinkingbeard · #13 07-22-2010, 11:24 AM

Rusty,
You're right in here and as far from lost as can be.

robobass · #14 07-23-2010, 01:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ovelhaaa

Do your bass have a bolt on neck?
If it does, maybe you could try to shim it with a business card or a thin piece of wood.