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Setup & Repair [DB] Exploring the issues involved in setting up and repairing basses, along with luthier recommendations.


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  #1  
Old 02-11-2010, 10:46 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Maryland
Soundpost fit picture

Does this look like a decent soundpost fit? I know it's hard to judge from just a picture. On the bottom, I tested it by trying to slide a piece of paper under the post from all directions, but I can't do that easily on the top. All I can tell is that the black line, which appears to be just a shadow due to slightly chamfered edge, is the same all around.

By the way, I went through about 6 sound posts before being happy with the fit and position.

George

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Last edited by George700DL : 02-11-2010 at 10:49 AM.
  #2  
Old 02-11-2010, 12:14 PM
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Those chamfered edges always play tricks on me too! I have to eyeball it several times before deciding if it's fit right or not. It looks good to me..
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  #3  
Old 02-11-2010, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by DallasStrings View Post
Those chamfered edges always play tricks on me too! I have to eyeball it several times before deciding if it's fit right or not. It looks good to me..
Cool. As long as I don't hear "it sucks" from a luthier, that's good enough for me.

George
  #4  
Old 02-12-2010, 01:12 AM
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Owner/The Bass Spa, String Repairman/L & M Vancouver
 
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Looks good to me George.

You can tell a lot about the fit by how it feels when you try to rotate the post. When its not in full contact the post will spin around the high point, when its all touching it feels really solid.
  #5  
Old 02-12-2010, 10:12 AM
proprietor, Condino's String Shop
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: asheville, nc
If only you could get your hand in there, everything would be different....

j.
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  #6  
Old 02-12-2010, 11:09 AM
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Talking

I wouldn't touch that line with a ten foot pole.
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  #7  
Old 02-12-2010, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james condino View Post
If only you could get your hand in there, everything would be different....

j.
James, you are proud of that access door, ain't you? And you should be.
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  #8  
Old 02-12-2010, 11:59 PM
Jake deVilliers's Avatar
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I wouldn't touch that line with a ten foot pole.
No Kidding! "That's not my ring, that's my watch!"
  #9  
Old 02-13-2010, 12:01 AM
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Talking

Ouch!
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Oh, no.....have we gone OT yet again?
"The opportunity was there...but it never presented itself." Phil Urso, 1980. :atoz:
  #10  
Old 02-16-2010, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Paul Warburton View Post
...with a ten foot pole.
I think that ship has just sailed
  #11  
Old 02-16-2010, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by james condino View Post
If only you could get your hand in there, everything would be different....

j.
Yeah, if only there was a way to do that.
  #12  
Old 02-16-2010, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Jake deVilliers View Post
Looks good to me George.

You can tell a lot about the fit by how it feels when you try to rotate the post. When its not in full contact the post will spin around the high point, when its all touching it feels really solid.
It kinda snapped into place, so I think it's fine.

George
  #13  
Old 02-16-2010, 10:14 AM
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Arrow Snapped?

Quote:
Originally Posted by George700DL View Post
It kinda snapped into place, so I think it's fine.
Your turn, Jake.
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Oh, no.....have we gone OT yet again?
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  #14  
Old 02-16-2010, 10:39 AM
proprietor, Condino's String Shop
 
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Originally Posted by M Ramsey View Post
James, you are proud of that access door, ain't you? And you should be.
Who said was talking about an access door?

j.
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  #15  
Old 02-16-2010, 11:21 AM
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Better?

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Your turn, Jake.
popped?
  #16  
Old 02-16-2010, 02:43 PM
proprietor, Condino's String Shop
 
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Originally Posted by George700DL View Post
Yeah, if only there was a way to do that.


I 'm not so much proud of that aspect on my bass as I'm more completely blown away by it. I originally thought it would be something I'd use occasionally. The reality is more like I use it every week, and almost every time I play a new room or gig I get in there and muck around with the soundpost. The soundpost fit I'm able to get is incomparable to what I can get going through the F holes. Now, whenever I work on another bass (daily) wthout it, I feel like I'm going in through the glove box or fresh air vent to work on the engine or building a ship in a bottle. I can't ever see building another bass without it. The only issue with it is that almost every one who sees it in action wants me to cut a hole in their bass and gets a little miffed when I tell them no.

j.
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Last edited by james condino : 02-16-2010 at 02:52 PM.
  #17  
Old 02-16-2010, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james condino View Post


I 'm not so much proud of that aspect on my bass as I'm more completely blown away by it. I originally thought it would be something I'd use occasionally. The reality is more like I use it every week, and almost every time I play a new room or gig I get in there and muck around with the soundpost. The soundpost fit I'm able to get is incomparable to what I can get going through the F holes. Now, whenever I work on another bass (daily) wthout it, I feel like I'm going in through the glove box or fresh air vent to work on the engine or building a ship in a bottle. I can't ever see building another bass without it. The only issue with it is that almost every one who sees it in action wants me to cut a hole in their bass and gets a little miffed when I tell them no.

j.
Why do you tell them "no"?
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  #18  
Old 02-16-2010, 05:25 PM
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Doing that on a new bass build under my own name, is useful to me and some folks would call it progressive and an interesting feature. Doing it to an existing bass built by someone else, one could easily get labeled as the "bass butcher", or other such labels by some of the more crusty folks around, and I'd probably frown on it myself if it was a mdification of an original part on a nice carved bass.

Plys and such are generaly working basses and have more leeway. Now, if someone asked me to remove the original C bout, clone a new one in the same style and level of workmanship as the original, and then preserve the original so that everything could be reversed, I'd be ok with that. That approach falls into that nefarious workng range like when the fingerboard is taken off an original Lloyd Loar mandolin and replaced with a modern one or period necks are removed and replaced with new ones. For me, the main issues are respect for the orgnal makers intentions and to do it in a method that is basically invisible and can be reversed.

We are sidetracking the orignal thread. The fit looks good to me from here. I've got a new soundpost setting tool design that I have been using for about a year. 'Works great and offers a solid solution. As soon as I find the right job shop to start producing them in quantity for me later this year, I'd like to offer up a couple dozen to folks around here for testing and review. Beat 'em, break 'em, and generally use the $#@! out of them so that the end result is all of us have a better mouse trap without cutting a trap door. I'll keep everyone posted.

j.
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Last edited by james condino : 02-16-2010 at 05:31 PM.
  #19  
Old 02-16-2010, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james condino View Post
I'll keep everyone posted.
Well, isn't that the idea?!
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  #20  
Old 02-17-2010, 09:11 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Maryland
Quote:
Originally Posted by james condino View Post
Doing that on a new bass build under my own name, is useful to me and some folks would call it progressive and an interesting feature. Doing it to an existing bass built by someone else, one could easily get labeled as the "bass butcher", or other such labels by some of the more crusty folks around, and I'd probably frown on it myself if it was a mdification of an original part on a nice carved bass.

Plys and such are generaly working basses and have more leeway. Now, if someone asked me to remove the original C bout, clone a new one in the same style and level of workmanship as the original, and then preserve the original so that everything could be reversed, I'd be ok with that. That approach falls into that nefarious workng range like when the fingerboard is taken off an original Lloyd Loar mandolin and replaced with a modern one or period necks are removed and replaced with new ones. For me, the main issues are respect for the orgnal makers intentions and to do it in a method that is basically invisible and can be reversed.

We are sidetracking the orignal thread. The fit looks good to me from here. I've got a new soundpost setting tool design that I have been using for about a year. 'Works great and offers a solid solution. As soon as I find the right job shop to start producing them in quantity for me later this year, I'd like to offer up a couple dozen to folks around here for testing and review. Beat 'em, break 'em, and generally use the $#@! out of them so that the end result is all of us have a better mouse trap without cutting a trap door. I'll keep everyone posted.

j.
Very cool James, both on the port and the soundpost setting tool idea - I'd love to hear about it.

With that port, you could probably even shave some wood off the top if it's too thick You could even get a thickness gauge inside it.

My top will probably be coming off at some point so that I can thin it down a bit - I think it could be louder. But for now, I'm just going to play it as much as possible.

For setting the soundpost, right now I use the standard tool, a flexible grabber thing from auto parts store, and a string tied to the post toward the top. I first stand the post up using the grabber and the string (rather than stabbing the post with the sharp end of the setter).

George
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