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Setup & Repair [DB] Exploring the issues involved in setting up and repairing basses, along with luthier recommendations.


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  #1  
Old 05-19-2006, 08:09 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
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Stinky Hide Glue

Hey there fellow bass enthusiast,

I was reading on mimf.org that you shouldn't use stinky hide glue because it's contaminated, and that good hide glue shouldn't have much of a smell to when cooked up. I've been using some Rockler brand hide glue pearl pellets that I bought from Rockler Woodworking to mix my glue for a double bass I've been working on. When I cook it, the glue's slightly on the stinky side. Am I going to be in a world of trouble on this? Please advise....

Your worried friend,

Cyrus Pansch
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  #2  
Old 05-19-2006, 08:26 AM
Jeff Bollbach Luthier, Inc.
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: freeport, ny
One mans stinky is anothers perfume. Hide glue definately has a strong scent, it shouldn't smell rancid though. If it jells thoroughly when cooled it will be good.
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  #3  
Old 05-19-2006, 08:49 AM
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Man you said it! - whooo

What about Titbond II - I heard it dosent dry as hard as just normal Titebond? I actually do like the smell of hideglue - its very wholesome...

Any Titbond freaks out there?

Cy-anara
  #4  
Old 05-19-2006, 09:54 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Denver, Co.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyrus Pansch
Man you said it! - whooo
What about Titbond II - I heard it dosent dry as hard as just normal Titebond? I actually do like the smell of hideglue - its very wholesome...
Any Titbond freaks out there?
Cy-anara

Hey Cyrus, are you sure about that spelling??
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  #5  
Old 05-19-2006, 10:22 AM
"Working Bassist"
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Bollbach
One mans stinky is anothers perfume....
Where I grew up there was a "glue factory" the other side of town, and if the wind was blowing in the right (or wrong) direction you could smell the perfume. Of course now the smell of hide glue brings back memories of my childhood...


Andy
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  #6  
Old 05-19-2006, 10:32 AM
AES Fine Instruments
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Brewster, NY, USA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyrus Pansch
Man you said it! - whooo

What about Titbond II - I heard it dosent dry as hard as just normal Titebond? I actually do like the smell of hideglue - its very wholesome...

Any Titbond freaks out there?

Cy-anara
You have some kind of deathwish?
  #7  
Old 05-19-2006, 11:04 AM
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What do you mean a death wish? Is this a comment about using Titebond in general on a DB, or about Titebond II? Is Titebond II bad stuff to use on instruments in general, and if so what can I expect after using it to glue the back braces and some other cracks in the top?

Oh and Paul Warburton - Ya I forgot an the E when I spelled Titebond - I'm really really sorry - won't you ever forgive me oh grateful teacher. I mean gee wiz I'm really really sorry for the misspelling. - j/k -

If you can add something useful to the discussion please do so, otherwise please give me a break on the simple spelling errors. I don't come here to be corrected on my spelling. I'm just looking for some friendly advise from the masters on this incredible journey.

Thanks for your help, sorry to be a crap apple.

Cy-anara

Last edited by Cyrus Pansch : 05-19-2006 at 11:07 AM.
  #8  
Old 05-19-2006, 11:08 AM
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Talking

hehehe...titbond!
  #9  
Old 05-19-2006, 11:31 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Denver, Co.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyrus Pansch
Oh and Paul Warburton - Ya I forgot an the E when I spelled Titebond - I'm really really sorry - won't you ever forgive me oh grateful teacher. I mean gee wiz I'm really really sorry for the misspelling. - j/k -
If you can add something useful to the discussion please do so, otherwise please give me a break on the simple spelling errors. I don't come here to be corrected on my spelling. I'm just looking for some friendly advise from the masters on this incredible journey.
Thanks for your help, sorry to be a crap apple.
Cy-anara
You stay around here for very long, and you'll be exposed to all kinds of senses of humor. Some are weird...like mine. Others are more subtle.
In any event, this wasn't meant to be hurtful.
I'll try to be more sensitive in the future.
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  #10  
Old 05-19-2006, 11:37 AM
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Hey Paul,

Your right, sorry to over-react. I'm still quite new here on talkbass, and felt like I needed to defend myself. I think I left my sense of humor at home today.

Mucho-apologies

Cy-borg
  #11  
Old 05-19-2006, 11:59 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Denver, Co.
No apology needed. Dig around the Archives a bit to get a taste of this forum. We're all here to help each other.

Actually this has been a good thing for you....we're all gonna remember you
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Last edited by Paul Warburton : 05-19-2006 at 02:38 PM.
  #12  
Old 05-19-2006, 01:04 PM
mje mje is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Southeast Michigan
Titebond II is more waterproof than the original, which means it's even worse for assembling something that might have to be disassembled one day ;-)

A question for the lutheirs: If you were assembling something that would never have to be disassemled- say, a crack in a neck that split along the grain- would you still use hide glue? Or would you use something like epoxy or Titebond?
  #13  
Old 05-19-2006, 07:23 PM
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Location: Canada
Quote:
Originally Posted by mje
A question for the lutheirs: If you were assembling something that would never have to be disassemled- say, a crack in a neck that split along the grain- would you still use hide glue? Or would you use something like epoxy or Titebond?
One thing to think about is that Titebond and similar glues have not been around for hundreds of years like hot hide glue. I don't do repairs, but if I were in that situation I would use what's tried, tested and true.
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  #14  
Old 05-22-2006, 11:42 AM
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I don't think there's any downside to using hide glue, is there? So if it leaves the option of later repair open, why not use it? Even if it sacrifices a little bit of strength, I'd rather have to re-do a repair years down the road than wonder if it might cause a headache some day...
  #15  
Old 05-22-2006, 01:14 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Boston
Quote:
Originally Posted by toman
I don't think there's any downside to using hide glue, is there?
+1. Hide glue is usually plenty strong (and available in different strengths, most "stronger than wood itself"), leaves a minimal glue line, doesn't creep with heat, is disassemble-able. It's really the perfect instrument glue.

For a lot of other information, check out what luthier Frank Ford has to say about it. (Frank is totally awesome and will answer your questions over email)

http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/pagelist.html

I particularly like his page about heat testing glue joints.

The ONLY downside to using hide glue is its fast set time. This you just have to get used to, and there are a few cases where it's just too hard to use hide glue because of this. It's also not great for gap-filling. So maybe there's two downsides. (One-and-a-half?).
  #16  
Old 05-22-2006, 05:21 PM
AES Fine Instruments
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Brewster, NY, USA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyrus Pansch
What do you mean a death wish? Is this a comment about using Titebond in general on a DB, or about Titebond II? Is Titebond II bad stuff to use on instruments in general, and if so what can I expect after using it to glue the back braces and some other cracks in the top?
It was a comment about using Titebond in general on a double bass. Here are some reasons: 1) does not stick to old hide-glued joints, 2) it creeps, 3) does not achieve the hardness of hide glue, and is not good for tone, 4) difficult to remove in future when doing repairs, 5) very difficult to re-open seams and joints in the future, 6) is often used to fill gaps, a job for which it is useless ,7) can make joints too strong so they won't pop during severe climate changes.

I was not meaning to come off as humorless. I expected you to be spanked and piled-on without mercy by the various luthiers and knowledgeable basspersons here...
  #17  
Old 05-22-2006, 06:54 PM
Jeff Bollbach Luthier, Inc.
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: freeport, ny
Quote:
Originally Posted by mje
Titebond II is more waterproof than the original, which means it's even worse for assembling something that might have to be disassembled one day ;-)

A question for the lutheirs: If you were assembling something that would never have to be disassemled- say, a crack in a neck that split along the grain- would you still use hide glue? Or would you use something like epoxy or Titebond?
A good luthier assumes that there are no "permanent" repairs and that any repair no matter how well done will someday need to be redone. That said some repairs will not work well with hide glue mainly due to its lack of gap filling ability. A neck [not the scroll] is expendable and sometimes using alternative glues may be the right choice.
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  #18  
Old 05-23-2006, 08:56 AM
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It's hard to tell if people are joking around with you because the jokes arn't funny at all....

Honestly - Do you still laugh at your own farts...
  #19  
Old 05-23-2006, 09:02 AM
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Concerning the set time of hide glue. I heard that you can add urea to the hide glue mix and it will slow down the clap time by about 20 min... If this is true and urea is the best thing to use for this.

1. Where can I find some in MN
2. How much do I put in the glue pot
3. Or can I just take a piss in my glue pot? - seriously!!!
  #20  
Old 05-23-2006, 10:43 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: West Tennessee
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyrus Pansch
It's hard to tell if people are joking around with you because the jokes arn't funny at all....

Honestly - Do you still laugh at your own farts...

I don't know about the laughing but there are definitely some old farts that waft around here from time to time.
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