string spacing at bridge.

[shwashwa]

my situation is that i have 2 basses. one really nice one, and one pretty ok one. the nice one sounds wonderful, but the ok one is much easier to play. i can get around in thumb position across the string much easier on the ok one. the only think i can attribute it to is the fact that the strings are closer together on the ok one, noticeably so. when i'm playing across the strings on the good one there's just more distance to cover and i can't get out the same kind of lines. the good one is a bigger bass over all, with bigger shoulders , a bigger bridge, and a wider fingerboard. (same string length though). my question is; is it possible to make the strings closer together at the bridge on the good bass? as i've said, the fingerboard is wider, so i feel like there would be extra real estate left over just doing nothing. what are some common solutions or rules of thumb in this situation?
thanks.

[Silversorcerer]

Some things to look out for if you bring the strings in:

• The arch of the fingerboard. If the radius (which determines the curve) is larger on the "good one", you might run into some problems with arco playing;- you will have less clearance between the strings and the tendency to inadvertently hit the adjacent string could be a result.

• If you move them closer, the fingerboard may also need to be dressed to give you the best string height along the whole length of the FB.

• If the bridge is a lot wider on the good one, bringing all the strings "in" could result in the bridge not vibrating as well.

It is a little more complex than just moving the strings in possibly. But there is no harm in trying it and seeing what else may or may not need to be done.

[JoeyNaeger]

You're in the exact same position as me it seems. I've just had to except that most of my performances are orchestral, and therefor I need my good bass to be set up for that kind of playing. This means, higher action, and wide string spacing so you can dump a lot of weight into the string. For everything else, I have my lesser sounding bass to use as a 'stunt' bass so to speak. It has narrow string spacing, and is usually set ridiculously low.

[KSB - Ken Smith]

I happen to have the Bridge from my Old Italian Bass that I sold over 15 years ago. When I put it up for sale in a NY shop I left my Bridge on that I had used for over 15 years on that Bass. I had it just the way I wanted it with a Pickup that I inlaid in it. Because it was an Orchestra Bass price-wise, the Luthier (Paul Biase) made a new Bridge for it with standard spacing. A few years ago I started playing again and asked Paul, "what ever happened to my old Bridge with the Pickup I inlaid in it". He replied, "It's right here in my showcase. I'll send it to you".

When I got it, the first thing I did of course was to measure my old spacing to see why I was having so much trouble crossing the strings as fast as I thought I would be able to like in my younger days. I measured the spacing and it was 23.5mm string to string. Currently I am using 27-27.5mm for orchestra playing and everything else as well.

My Bass was big as well. When I bought it in dis-repair it had an Eb Neck and the String length was 44". The Bass was an old Italian Bass from the 18th century with large/broad shoulders and they had already been cut down once some time ago. The Bass was so good that I didn't care how big it was and ended up using it for everything including my Classical Bass lessons for Solos which I barely had time to work on. I did that mainly for technique and personal enjoyment. It did the job on both ways.

After the Bass was restored it was still a touch over 42" and the Neck barely a 'D' at the heel. I personally re-cut the Heel so I could reach the 'D' with my first finger and the Bridge if I recall correctly was at the top of the F-notch. The Bass was slightly long and the FFs places Low when it was made. A not so uncommon thing to find on old Basses.

When a Bass plays easy and responds well, the spacing is not as much of an issue. Even if you have tight spacing but the Bass is stiff and tight to play, you will still be fighting it. Recently I tried a nice old English Lott Bass and it played so easily. I went and measured the spacing. Almost 28mm from string to string. I went over to my Martini and immediately re-cut the Top of the Bridge as close as possible to the Lott. I think the Bass is just as easy to play overall. For bowing, its easier but for solo fingering in thumb position, it is a bit more work. Especially with a slightly higher bridge for Orchestra. I use from 4-5mm at the G to 8-9 at the E. Still lower than the average but for solo, I like it about 3mm to maybe 7mm at the E at most (height at the end of the fb). Having a good neck and FB makes this possible.

No matter what grade you Bass is, a better set-up will make it easier and more fun to play. Find your perfect set-up specs and then find the right guy/luthier to help you get your Bass to where you want it. If the FB is not just right, it will be hard to compensate or match the Bridge to it.

[bribass]

I had a similar situation between my good German bass and my great Prescott. The Prescott had slightly wider spacing and more arch and scoop in the fingerboard.

I had Jeff Bollbach bring in the spacing (I think from under 1 and 1/8" down to just over 1 ") and plane just a tad of the longetudinal scoop, leaving the arch about the same. He redid the nut as well. All this made this great playing and sounding bass even easier to play jazz upper register stuff while keeping enough room for arco string crossing and string excursion. He is a master.

BG

[shwashwa]

thanks for the responses. the setup on the bass currently is very nice. action is low, like i like it, and the bass plays like butter for 90% of the things i play. i'm kind of reluctant to mess with it. it's just when i'm soloing in thumb position i can execute much better on my "student" bass. it's kind of a bummer to not be able to paly everything i want to on a bass that took me a long time to save up for. i'm trying to decide if the best solution is to bring the strings in, or to just say to myself that this is not the best bass to suit my needs and to start looking for another one...

[KSB - Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by shwashwa

thanks for the responses. the setup on the bass currently is very nice. action is low, like i like it, and the bass plays like butter for 90% of the things i play. i'm kind of reluctant to mess with it. it's just when i'm soloing in thumb position i can execute much better on my "student" bass. it's kind of a bummer to not be able to paly everything i want to on a bass that took me a long time to save up for. i'm trying to decide if the best solution is to bring the strings in, or to just say to myself that this is not the best bass to suit my needs and to start looking for another one...

On one Bass that my Son uses I cut a second set of notches leaving all but the 'A' (or was it the 'D'?) in place. I measured how much to move them and I made new slots for tighter spacing. You can now move between the Bowing set-up and the Jazz set-up simply by loosening and moving over the strings one at a time. I think I did my old 23.5mm spacing as the other was about 27-28mm or so. The two 'E' notches are side by side but I made the Jazz notches a bit more shallow so the slots don't break into each other.

Recently when I widened my Martini, I did a similar thing. I cut the E a bit outwards and then cut new notches for all. The A was a push as it was within the same slot moved over a bit. The D and G clearly had two sets of notches. On Monday, I cleaned up this work and reshaped the Top of the bridge so only the newer wider notches show. I did this because this is the new spacing I will keep on the Bass. I also made Walnut leg shims (.200 thick) to make up for all the wood I have cut playing with the spacing. The Shims match the adjuster wheels in wood and color and I must say, the job looks very professional as if it's a seamless painted strip. One day I will do pics when I update my webpage on the Martini but this is a way to save a bridge when the adjusters are up 1/4" which for me are too high for comfort.