Strings to different pegs

[bejoyous]

I've been meaning to restring which pegs tighten which strings for some time. I finally got around to doing it.

The G-string goes to the peg closest to the nut as it is the thinnest and most flexible.

The D-string goes to the next peg.

The low-C (B) string in the extension goes to the third peg because that's where it's been designed to go.

And the A-string goes to the peg furthest from the nut.

I did this change mostly to take the sharp bend out of the A-string which used to go to the peg closest to the nut. I also did this because the D-string used to travel over the windings on the G-peg and when I tuned the D, it would slightly alter the tuning of the G and vice verse.

I put some tape on the finger and thumb part of the machine and used a marker to write the name of the string it tunes. That way, I won't be turning the G-string thinking it's the A-peg and be wondering why the pitch isn't changing. Hopefully, it'll prevent a broken string until I get used to the new tuning configuration.

The strings go straight up from the bridge and don't cross when it goes into the pegbox. Looks nice.

While the strings were loose, I gave them a deep cleaning with methyl hydrate. It's amazing how much dirt gets in between the windings even when I wipe the strings off each time I play or rehearse.

So, at the moment, I can't tell if the reconfiguration or the cleaning has improved the sound more, but it does seem to respond better and easier.

More after the rehearsals on the weekend. I'll see if anyone else notices.

[JtheJazzMan]

I just string the highest pitch note to the closest peg, lowest pitch string to the furthest.

A luthier told me that its "proven" to make a difference. (Didnt elaborate on what the difference is though...) Im a little doubtful it makes much difference, but I havent tested it myself so I cant rule anything out.

It makes the strings neat though, as there are no strings with tension against one another, so I always string basses that way.

[George700DL]

Originally Posted by bejoyous

I did this change mostly to take the sharp bend out of the A-string which used to go to the peg closest to the nut. I also did this because the D-string used to travel over the windings on the G-peg and when I tuned the D, it would slightly alter the tuning of the G and vice verse.

My solution - 3 strings and a wider pegbox

George

[Square Bear]

i do the same as JtheJazzMan... g is on the closest peg to the nut, e is on the farthest. it does basically the same thing as a compensated tailpiece, except even more extreme. the g string has the steepest angle off the nut and the shortest afterlength before the nut, meaning increased tension which often (not always, depends on the bass) leads to greater projection on this string. on the e, the afterlength is longer and the angle is less steep before the nut. on my bass, the lower tension makes it a little easier to play in the lower positions on the e string and really opens up the sound in that register. there is definitely a difference. it depends on the instrument though, each bass will have an optimal amount/distribution of pressure on the top plate and reacts differently.

[drurb]

Originally Posted by Square Bear

the g string has the steepest angle off the nut and the shortest afterlength before the nut, meaning increased tension which often (not always, depends on the bass) leads to greater projection on this string.

I think any effect of the break angle over the nut cannot really be compared to the effects of the break angle over the bridge (affected by the after-length). The break angle over the bridge certainly affects the tension on the top. Not so the break angle into the pegbox, at least as I understand things. Also, I believe the after-lengths "ring" in a way that the length of string in the pegbox does not. Break angle into the peg box can certainly affect string longevity.

My own bass has "mirror-image" placement of the tuning pegs as seen here:

[kmanley_29649]

Originally Posted by Square Bear

i do the same as JtheJazzMan... g is on the closest peg to the nut, e is on the farthest. it does basically the same thing as a compensated tailpiece, except even more extreme. the g string has the steepest angle off the nut and the shortest afterlength before the nut, meaning increased tension which often (not always, depends on the bass) leads to greater projection on this string. on the e, the afterlength is longer and the angle is less steep before the nut. on my bass, the lower tension makes it a little easier to play in the lower positions on the e string and really opens up the sound in that register. there is definitely a difference. it depends on the instrument though, each bass will have an optimal amount/distribution of pressure on the top plate and reacts differently.

Same here. I've really enjoyed this setup.

[Square Bear]

Originally Posted by drurb

I think any effect of the break angle over the nut cannot really be compared to the effects of the break angle over the bridge (affected by the after-length). The break angle over the bridge certainly affects the tension on the top. Not so the break angle into the pegbox, at least as I understand things. Also, I believe the after-lengths "ring" in a way that the length of string in the pegbox does not. Break angle into the peg box can certainly affect string longevity.

you can't really change the angle over the bridge, only the afterlength. but you are right that a change in that would be greater than the angle over the nut.

[Eric Hochberg]

Originally Posted by drurb

My own bass has "mirror-image" placement of the tuning pegs...

DRURB, if you haven't tried it yet, swap the E and A tuner positions. Let us know what you think, you might be pleasantly surprised.

[Jake deVilliers]

Originally Posted by Eric Hochberg

DRURB, if you haven't tried it yet, swap the E and A tuner positions. Let us know what you think, you might be pleasantly surprised.

That simple switch has improved every bass I've tried it on except for one.

[bejoyous]

After having two rehearsals over the weekend and taking the day off to practice today, I like the new peg configuration.

If putting on a wire tailpiece makes a $10 000 improvement to the sound of my bass, then switching the strings around the pegs would be worth about a $1200 improvement.

All the strings sound clearer. The sustain & speaking quality of the A-string is the most improved. The harmonics of the G-string are more true as well. All the strings have a bit more "thunk" to the bottom end.

If you are willing to take the time to switch them without having the soundpost fall down and relearn which peg tunes what, I'd recommend it as an inexpensive way to improve the sound and playability of your instrument.

[JtheJazzMan]

The question to me is why does it work?

Does a longer string length between the peg and tailpiece affect how much it can stretch, giving it more flexibility?

Does a bridge have that much flexibility back and forth, and is the string sliding over the nut microscopically?