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Setup & Repair [DB] Exploring the issues involved in setting up and repairing basses, along with luthier recommendations.


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  #1  
Old 09-11-2006, 09:19 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Boston & Arizona, USA
tailpiece materials

I got my 3/4 DB back a while ago after a bunch of major work. For the most part everything looks great but the bass came back with a different tailpiece than when it left. The repair person said that the tailpiece was cracked, which was possible but I think that unless it was a hairline crack, I would have noticed it before. Thing is that the tailpiece was replaced and I was not asked or told until the bass was put into my hands. I may have been willing to pay to have something better put on but he may have assumed otherwise since we did have an initial budget. I wish we had discussed it beforehand and also that I had been shown the problem with the old tailpiece

The replacement tailpiece looks pretty bad, like an old piece of maple with sloppy, thick runny black paint. It flares outward at the top instead of curving up into a nice vertical line and it has deep notches where the strings cross the raised lip at the top of tailpiece. It looks like something he had kicking around from another bass after it had been replaced. Still, I am ignorant enough that it may not be that terrible.

That said, the bass does play and sound better than ever, even with it's decades old strings. The other work that he did looks very nice.

Anyway, the question is if I should bother to replace the tailpiece when I change my strings? It is ugly but I can probably live with it. I have read a lot about tailpieces on old threads and other sites but wonder if there would be a big difference in anything but appearance on a laminated bass that is quite nice but in no way exceptional like some of the old carved instruments that people talk about on this board.

I am guessing that I can probably find better ways to spend the money but just wanted to bounce it off you folks first.

Peace,
S
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  #2  
Old 09-11-2006, 09:27 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London
Ignore the sound, just the way you describe the new tailpiece would just drive me crazy and would grate on me everytime I pick the bass up, so I would be looking at changing it. As for it being changed without any discussion with you first is a bit out of line and probably puts doubts over what could be excellent workmanship otherwise.
  #3  
Old 09-11-2006, 10:40 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Go back to the shop, insist on getting something that looks like the old tailpiece. Be reasonable and be patient. A phone call from the shop (while your bass was there) would have solved the problem. Give them an opportunity to fix the problem now.
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  #4  
Old 09-12-2006, 12:37 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
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Yes, mostly I have just been getting myself motivated to deal with this and I will very soon.

The question still stands as to which I get - 1. a decent looking 'ebonized' tailpiece, 2. an ebony tailpiece, 3. a composite tailpiece

Any Votes?

Thanks,
S
  #5  
Old 09-12-2006, 01:39 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Austin Texas
I would go for a Pecanic compensated. They look awesome, and come in many different wood varities. Definitely not an ebonized.

I don't see how the TP material could change the sound on a ply that was used mostly for pizz.
  #6  
Old 09-12-2006, 05:08 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
The difference between ebony, maple (ebonized), and metal for a tailpiece is subtle... tonally speaking. It makes a difference, albeit a small one. For pizz, a lighter tailpiece can help projection. It's a matter of trying out different tailpieces with your setup and style of playing.
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  #7  
Old 09-12-2006, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpoppitt
I don't see how the TP material could change the sound on a ply that was used mostly for pizz.
I have a ply bass used mostly for pizz. When I changed my standard ebonised maple tailpiece for a much lighter compensated style, the change in sound was remarkable.
  #8  
Old 09-12-2006, 07:33 AM
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I agree completely with Nick's advice. The shop's motives may have been entirely pure and you should give them an opportunity to respond. We, here, can only speculate. That said, I would definitely not want to stay with the tailpiece they put on. It also seems that, for whatever reason, you do not trust the shop as much as one would like. For the future, I'd suggest that you address and remedy that or find someone in whom you have more faith.
  #9  
Old 09-12-2006, 12:39 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Boston & Arizona, USA
I have little faith in anyone. I try not to be troublesome to others without good reason and I try to be helpful when I can be but I trust nobody. That is one reason why I try to reality check here a little because I do not know what I should reasonably expect in any situation.

Peace,
S
  #10  
Old 09-13-2006, 01:28 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA USA
Traditionally tailpieces are pearwood or other hardwood that is often ebonized, but sometimes not (like the old Kays with rosewood). Sometimes the ebonizing is poorly done, other times (like on my DB), it is so well done that it could pass at a glance for ebony. I don't think there is anything inherently better about having an ebony TP. Inevitably this will be heavier, which might be worse for sound and no more functional than dyed hardwood, and certainly more costly. I do think if you want the ultimate in a new TP, the Pecanic is a good bet.

It's a little odd that you were not informed of the TP replacement and I would be a little suspicious like you are about the crack that you didn't notice. I like to give people the benefit of the doubt except in situations that tend to reinforce the doubt and this is definitely one of those. Sort of like the mechanic that tells you when you pick up the car that he did you the favor of replacing the brake pads also because they were almost gone. How do you know unless he shows you the old pads? It is not a confidence inspiring situation. My general first reply to anything like that is, while feigning genuine and utter surprise, "Really? Can I see it?" I just let them know I'm from Missouri to begin with and that generally gets to the bone of it. At this point you might ask to have the old one back (since it's cracked and presumably useless they shouldn't protest) so that you can find a new one that matches better than the one they replaced it with. This is a perfectly legitimate request. If they tell you they have already thrown it out, well, their cred. is seriously reduced, IMO.
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  #11  
Old 09-13-2006, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSuzie
I have little faith in anyone. I try not to be troublesome to others without good reason and I try to be helpful when I can be but I trust nobody...
Peace,
S
This is a sad commentary. Healthy skepticism and objectivity is certainly valuable at the beginning of a relationship with a luthier or a mechanic, for that matter. It is the case, however, that with either one you will not be in a position to verify every judgment. It is best to find someone you can trust-- that is, someone who, over time, earns your trust. I feel quite confident that any of the luthiers who regularly contribute here are extremely trustworthy. I feel badly for anyone whose experiences have left him or her so jaded that mutual trusting relationships cannot be developed. Perhaps I have taken your comments too literally. I hope I have!

Last edited by drurb : 09-13-2006 at 01:50 PM.
  #12  
Old 09-14-2006, 02:01 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Detroit, MI
I used a ton of those Wittner lighweight composite tailpieces. Light, functional pieces with a nice, satin black appearance to them. Affordable and durable - these went on all of my later pizz basses (unless an alternative like a Pecanic was ordered).
  #13  
Old 09-14-2006, 03:32 PM
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Retailer: Shen, Sun, older European
 
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Location: Burlingame, California
Wittner tailpieces

I like the Wittner tailpieces as well for pizz use on many basses. Paesold supplies them as standard equipment on their instruments.

Steve Swan
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