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08-06-2006, 08:44 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Ontario, Canada | | | Unusual Fingerboard Question Hello Everyone,
I am having a small issue with a repair done by a local luthier on my 40's Kay this past winter. When I baught the bass, the rosewood fingerboard was quite discoloured from age, so in addition to having the end pin replaced, I asked that the fingerboard be "ebonized" - purely for asthetic reasons. This luthier had done several fingerboard dressings on my other bass, which also has a rosewood board, all of which were followed by a re-ebonizing step to bring the board back to black.
However, with this one, instead of the usual approach he had used (I'm sorry, I don't know the way it is normally done), he instead painted the board black and then urethaned over the paint. At first, I was a little taken back by this, but his logic made sense: That this way, the urethane would protect the softer rosewood from wear and would save me money on fingerboard dressings in the long run - sounds good enough.
But, following harsh Canadian Winters usually are exceptionally humid Canadian summers - My painted fingerboard is starting to peel around the edges -
So, my question - is this a commonly done repair to fingerboards? Through my years of playing, this is my first (and last) experience with it, as I feel it is a sub par technique - I could be wrong in situations where it is done correctly! Would I be wrong in contacting the luthier about this problem? I assumed he would tackle the repair as he had done in the past and I hope its not my fault that I never mentioned "please don't paint on my bass". I'm considering having the board replaced with an ebony one this fall, but this one has to get me through the summer.....
Any thoughts?
thanks,
fm
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08-07-2006, 01:57 AM
|  | Supporting Member Luthier: Bresque Basses, rep: Paulin EUB | | Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Sydney, Australia | | | I would have thought that he would have stained the rosewood, although he may have had bleed problems at the board/neck joint. Sounds like a mess. Can you scrape it off? | 
08-07-2006, 09:00 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Ontario, Canada | | | Yeah,
That's what I thought he would have done too - That's what has been done when I've had my instruments worked on at his shop previously (couldn't think of the right word in my last post)
I don't know about scraping it off - I think I'd have to take it to someone more qualified....
thanks,
fm | 
08-07-2006, 09:11 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: London, Ontario | | | getting a new fingerboard Hmm, it might be best just to get a new fingerboard. Since you are in Ontario, you can get one at Heinl's : http://www.georgeheinl.com/catalogue...2=49&level3=65 .
Idon't know how much it would be to glue it on and dress it though. | 
08-07-2006, 09:22 AM
| | Supporting Member/Luthier | | Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio | | | It sounds like he wanted to give you an extra layer of protection with the urethane. But, the urethane is chipping (not working) and you have plans to get an ebony board within a year. How about this: have him scrape off the urethane, apply a thin coat of Danish oil, let it dry, and then play it until you can upgrade. | 
08-07-2006, 11:22 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Ontario, Canada | | | Hey Guys,
Thanks for all the replies!
So, as far as the urethane goes, I agree that it was an added layer of protection for the rosewood board - That is what I was told when I picked up the instrument. However, the paint is the problem, as it is seperating from the fingerboard below
I like the advice about having the guys scrape the mess off the board, but I'm curious if you guys think he should/would charge for this? I mean, the repair was quite a few months ago, but it was the dead of winter when he did it and I'm only seeing the problem now - Nothing I could have forseen that far ahead as a non-luthier.
I am considering the ebony board anyhow, but $$ is a little tight right now (actually always tight!), but if its going to cost money to fix the problem, it might be worth sinking it into a solid fix.
Thanks again,
fm | 
08-07-2006, 12:14 PM
| | | | Sand it off and use saddle black to stain it. Good luck finding a decent ebony board for a replacement. Easier to find a good rosewood. | 
08-07-2006, 12:33 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2005 Location: Forest Grove, OR | | | The ebony one I got from International Violin Co. seems to be quite good...the rosewood ones are a third the price, though. I don't know how much you want to spend. The rosewood ones are sixty something, and the ebony ones are around $190, varying with grade. | 
08-07-2006, 12:50 PM
| | Supporting Member/Luthier | | Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by flyingmarcel Hey Guys,
Thanks for all the replies!
So, as far as the urethane goes, I agree that it was an added layer of protection for the rosewood board - That is what I was told when I picked up the instrument. However, the paint is the problem, as it is seperating from the fingerboard below
I like the advice about having the guys scrape the mess off the board, but I'm curious if you guys think he should/would charge for this? I mean, the repair was quite a few months ago, but it was the dead of winter when he did it and I'm only seeing the problem now - Nothing I could have forseen that far ahead as a non-luthier.
I am considering the ebony board anyhow, but $$ is a little tight right now (actually always tight!), but if its going to cost money to fix the problem, it might be worth sinking it into a solid fix.
Thanks again,
fm |
Talk to your luthier and work something out. Let him take care of it before this thread gets out of hand.  | 
08-07-2006, 03:43 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Ontario, Canada | | | Wow!
I didn't expect to get these responses, but I think Nick is right that this thing really shouldn't get out of hand. I think its important to clarify a couple of things:
1) It is not and was not my intention to slam my luthier for this - Do I feel the problem is directly a result of his repair? Yes, but some times in doing something, you reach a point and have to decide is A better than B - In this case maybe, it was the best solution, I don't know
2) Thank you all for the replies regarding the replacement board. I've checked each of the links and will keep them at hand when I decide to replace the board. However, I am a graduate student and my weekly income from this source wouldn't fill the gas tank on larger SUV's. So, I have to save my gig money for this type of repair and I still haven't reached the target. So for now, I need to deal with fixing the problem at hand.
3) Since I am not qualified in terms of the building/repairing side of things, I am grateful to hear all of the replies on how to fix the problem. I will not be undertaking any of the work myself though, so suggestions on taking it back to the luthier and plans of attack I can get him to carry out with be great!
4) Thank you all for your help - This is such a great resource and I have always received help regarding all my problems. When I am finacially able, you will all see my name under "Latest Supporting Member", I promise you that
I will be contacting my luthier tonight in regard to this problem and will be trying to reach a solution - Perhaps I'll post how the situation works out.
Thanks,
fm | 
08-08-2006, 12:27 AM
|  | 'Woodworker - Witch Doctor - Luthier' Owner/The Bass Spa, String Repairman/L & M Vancouver | | Join Date: May 2006 Location: Crescent Beach, BC | | | Please let us know how the situation resolves.
I'm sure that your repairman will want to fix your fingerboard, for pride, if for no other reason.
Everybody makes mistakes, its how they fix them that matters.
Jake | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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