Upright fingerboard measurements?

[lexluthier72]

Hey Folks,
Im new to this forum, I am a guitar builder by trade. I have a customer interested in an electric upright bass 41.5" scale. My only questions are involving fingerboard specs. I am hoping to use a true upright style fingerboard, which I am planning to make from a plank of rosewood. I have found only the taper of the fingerboard, and the thickness at the edges. I need to know the typical thickness in the center of the board, and the width of the "flat" for the E string. Also helpful might be how thick is the end of the fretboard over the body, where it is scooped. Thanks in Advance.
-Erin

[vejesse]

Here's some advice: Unless you've got killer deals on big sticks of seasoned tropical hardwood the German sources will provide stable wood and it's fully machined. Let them choke on the rosewood dust and you can concentrate on building instead of making your own fingerboards.

[lexluthier72]

vejesse,
Ive been building guitars for 20 years. I have a pretty good stack of Rosewood, and Ebony. Thanks for the advice. Anybody have the measurements Im looking for?
-Erin

[salcott]

I think his point was that you don't HAVE to make this particular part from scratch. The bass makers/repairers can correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't know anyone who makes a double bass fingerboard from scratch.

[lexluthier72]

guess im old fashioned, and I cannot justify a couple hundred bucks for a fingerboard. I appreciate the sound advice, but I would rather make one. I already have the blank, it is tapered already, I just need the above measurements to finish.
-Erin

[egbert]

Maybe other people are just as amazed that you're trying to find out how to make a double bass fingerboard by asking on the internet? Anyways I'm no luthier, but since nobody else has offered it up I'll go ahead and state the obvious: There's no set standard for DB fingerboard measurements which is why they are not "widely available." Fingerboards can be shaped many ways.

[idahohay]

Useful Measurements for Violin Makers by Henry Strobel has the dimensions. He gives the width of the chamfer at the nut, at the end of the fingerboard, the radius of the radiused part, etc. I would just give them to you but I won't be near the book until Monday. You might consider getting a copy, it really is useful and you can buy it directly from him via his website.

[lexluthier72]

I have the book and could not find the measurements....guess Im back to re-read it.

[lexluthier72]

I found some basic measurements, thanks Henry Strobel. thanks for all the replies

[KSB - Ken Smith]

Do you melt and forge all the metals for Tuners and Bridges? Mill your own gears?

The best Luthiers I know BUY their fingerboard blanks and fit them to the Bass. Even those that MAKE Basses buy fingerboards. What you should do if you plan on doing this is go LOOK at a Bass and see what a Fingerboard looks like. You seem to be asking questions that no one ever asks.

Also, some people here would prefer you fill in your profile so they know who they are talking to. All the main Luthiers that post here use their real names, first and last and with a link to their website of their business. Making a guitar fingerboard is nothing like making a double bass fingerboard. Also, most players prefer rounded boards and not the older style with the E bevel.

You will do a better job if you know more about the instrument, can play one or at least have seen one up close. Then you can take your own measurements so there is no one to blame down the road.

[lexluthier72]

To all who replied,
Thanks for the great suggestions. Again, I have found the measurements I need.
-Erin

[Bob Branstetter]

I occasionally make bass fingerboards from (double black) Pakka-wood. Round fingerboards are relatively easy to make if you build a large router jig with a rotating cylinder underneath holding the the wood. I usually use a constant 66mm radius for round boards. Good commercial ebony (round) boards have a compound radius and I can make a compound radius board if necessary with the jig. Beveled boards are FAR more complicated to make. Contrary to common thought, the Romberg bevel is not just cut off from an otherwise round fingerboard. The radius of the the rounded part is actually off center in two planes (in addition to being a compound radius). The best way I know to make a beveled board is to copy a good commercial board with CNC machine.

[lexluthier72]

Bob and Idahohay,
Thanks so much for the information. I did find the measurements, and made a set of radius/profile templates. This should prove to be a good challenge.
-Erin

[lexluthier72]

ok....for the folks who ask all the questions that NOBODY asks....The middle of the fingerboard tapers from 5/8" at the nut to 1" at the body. The bevel is 1/2" at the nut, and 1" at the body. The radius in between is compound, but roughly a 3.7" I hope this helps the next guy in need. Convert to metric as needed. These measurements come from the Henry Strobel book, and a bit of layout.
-Erin

[Bob Branstetter]

Originally Posted by lexluthier72

ok....for the folks who ask all the questions that NOBODY asks....The middle of the fingerboard tapers from 5/8" at the nut to 1" at the body. The bevel is 1/2" at the nut, and 1" at the body. The radius in between is compound, but roughly a 3.7" I hope this helps the next guy in need. Convert to metric as needed. These measurements come from the Henry Strobel book, and a bit of layout.
-Erin

Perhaps I had better explain what I mean by compound radius. On a bass fingerboard, the radius is different at the nut end than it is at the bridge end of the fingerboard. I'm out of town now and don't remember the exact numbers, but for an example, the nut radius may be 55mm and the bridge end 72mm. I would not depend on the "average" figures that my friend Henry Strobel listed in his book as the gospel for making a fingerboard from scratch. My suggestion would be to buy, borrow or steal a new commerial made beveled fingerboard and use it for your pattern. I can not stress enough how complicated the geometry is on a beveled bass fingerboard. If you get it wrong, the bass is not going to play like it should. You might be better off starting with a non-beveled board first. They are much easier to make and many of the principles apply if you still want to try a beveled board after making the round one first. There are very good reasons why most experienced double bass makers choose to buy rather than make their own fingerboards from scratch.

[lexluthier72]

Bob,
Thanks for the input, as Im sure others will need it. I do understand fully the concept of a compound radius and why it works the way it does. I also would not take Strobel as gospel, but it gives a good starting point. Lastly, alot of us would not be luthiers, if we were afraid to try something new....

[Bob Branstetter]

Let us know how it turns out.

[HogieWan]

I'd like to see some pictures if possible

[jgregpegleg]

Thanks for posting the dimensions Erin. I found this thread because I am building my own fretboard. Seeing how others seemingly jumped on you for asking a question is offputting and counterproductive to say the least.
Like you, I don't have a double bass next to me, but was looking for a starting point idea to compare to my guesstimate at this early stage in development.

[yesyoucan]

This is the third forum I HAVE BEEN TO WHERE everyone DID NOTHING but chastise a guy for trying to learn and tried to talk him out of building a guitar. Why is this forum here anyway? If you want some positive reinforcement don't come here. If lexluther wants measurements give him measurements. Who cares if he screws it up? what does it matter to anyone? Advice on the difficulty is great but not asked for. How many here even know what your abilities are? A couple of hundred bucks is a lot if you can make one. I don't get it.