Using Pre-made Hide Glue

Cyrus Pansch · #1 04-27-2006, 02:59 PM

Hello,

I'm currently getting ready to glue on a new finger board and the flat back to the ribs of my double bass in the white. Can anyone tell me if it would be alright to use the pre-made hide glue in the bottle instead of cooking up a batch (Which I've never done and have heard is much more difficult). Is the pre-made stuff a quality product for string instrument repair?

Please advise,

Cyrus Pansch

nicklloyd · #2 04-27-2006, 03:55 PM

Don't use the bottled hide glue from Franklin's. Mixing your own glue is not hard. (www.mimf.org is a good place to look at, as well)

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You can order hide glue granules from www.internationalviolin.com

Zachary Martin · #3 04-27-2006, 06:46 PM

I agree with Nick.
Mixing hide glue is not difficult and would be much better for the instrument, especially for the back! You want a weaker glue so if something is going to pop, it will be the seam and not the wood.

Jeff Bollbach · #4 04-27-2006, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zachary Martin

I agree with Nick.
Mixing hide glue is not difficult and would be much better for the instrument, especially for the back! You want a weaker glue so if something is going to pop, it will be the seam and not the wood.

Then wouldn't the premix be good? I hear hide glue is pretty strong.

Tbeers · #5 04-27-2006, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff Bollbach

Then wouldn't the premix be good? I hear hide glue is pretty strong.

At least when you mix your own, you can control the strength.

rllefebv · #6 04-27-2006, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff Bollbach

Then wouldn't the premix be good? I hear hide glue is pretty strong.

My experience with the pre-mixed Franklin glue, (admittedly all electric), is that it bonds very strong... often stronger than the wood itself. One of the nice 'hide' properties that it retains, along with an adequate set time, is that it loosens nicely with applied heat.

I agree that gluing a seam where separation is desired calls for cooking up your own...

FWIW,
-robert

vejesse · #7 04-28-2006, 06:36 AM

Don't use this stuff. It doesn't act like granular hide glue. It goes bad, it creeps and it's a bitch to clean out. Also, I'm not sure that it reconstitutes itself like regular hide glue.
Do you know you can use regular grocery store unflavored gelatin? It's almost just as strong. Check out this site Frets.com for instructions on this, but please don't use anything but granular hide glue or 'knox' style gelatin for joints on an upright bass that might need to be taken apart later.

1st Bass · #8 04-28-2006, 09:51 AM

Franklin Hide glue re-constitutes, all right-- when you least want it to. It will return to liquid state in very humid conditions. I have a violinmaker friend who went to a workshop/show with several instruments he had made, using this glue. The show was in the deep south, and at a humid time of year...every single one of his instruments slowly disassembled themselves during the show.

Another friend had a fingerboard on a bass come off during a gig, for the exact same reason.

If you live in AZ, and will always keep the bass dry, you can get away with it, but if there is a chance it will be exposed to humidity, don't chance it.

Cyrus Pansch · #9 04-28-2006, 04:02 PM

Wow guys, thanks for the great advise!!! I'm going to pick up some Hide glue and a thermometer after work at Rockler and get-er done!!! After I'm done with the fingerboard and glueing the back to the sides I'll make sure to send some pictures if I do a good job...

Also on another note - Should I put up a new thread inquireing about lutheirs in MN. - Can anyone tell me a good/yet cheaper Luthier in the MN area. - I will need to go to the pro's to re-set my neck and the initial set up?

Thanks again

Cy-anara