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06-30-2009, 06:32 PM
| | | | What kind of wood for endpin? Since I have a bass with the tailgut mounted around a knob in front of the endpin, I thought I just might try a complete solid wooden endpin. That means I mount a piece of wood in a lathe and make myself an endpin that fits right into the end block of the bass.
I think this would improve the bottom frequencies drastically.
But I kind of wonder which wood would be the most resonant and suitable for this jumbo endpin......
Any ideas?
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06-30-2009, 07:08 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Madison, WI/Indianapolis, IN | | | Some people use Oak, I think Rufus Reid might have that on his bass. | 
06-30-2009, 08:41 PM
| | Registered User Luthier, Dallas Strings | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Dallas, Texas | | | I've heard of a nifty device that was being marketed at ISB called a "sex change". It has a plug for your existing endpin hole that acts as a button like on a violin to hold your tail wire. Then another hole is drilled to accommodate a solid wood endpin at a fixed length. It's also angled back about 45 degrees. Perhaps someone here has more info as to what exactly I'm talking about as I have been unable to find it on google.. | 
06-30-2009, 09:35 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Gaithersburg, Maryland | | | I haven't seen the plug but I'd like to try it out. I have a Laborie end pin in one my basses. It's a 44-degree angle, I think. Mine is made of pernambuco and it's a great improvement over the regular metal pin. The angle takes a little getting used to, but it's great for aging backs!
But the metal pin is still in its place, and I can't help but think a wooden plug would help even more.
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06-30-2009, 09:50 PM
|  | 'Woodworker - Witch Doctor - Luthier' Owner/The Bass Spa, String Repairman/L & M Vancouver | | Join Date: May 2006 Location: Crescent Beach, BC | | | Dave, just take the steel pin out... | 
06-30-2009, 11:40 PM
| | proprietor, Condino's String Shop | | Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: asheville, nc | | I've turned solid endpins on a lathe out of rosewood, African blackwood, both hard and soft maples, and spruce. They each had their own subtle differences. I like the clean simplicity of it and the solid contact all the way through. Some folks don't like the non-adjustability, but I've never had an issue with it. If you've got access to a good lathe, even if you make one out of a relatively expensive wood like African Blackwood, you are only out $20; 1/10th of that for a nice domestic hardwood. I've also fabricated a simple laminating mold and glued up 1/8" stock to produce several angled endpins of all solid construction that can be used with a standard hole. Check out the thread on my new bass build for photos of a straight Michigan red maple one: james' bass build
james | 
07-01-2009, 09:24 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Chicago | | Quote:
Originally Posted by DallasStrings I've heard of a nifty device that was being marketed at ISB called a "sex change". It has a plug for your existing endpin hole that acts as a button like on a violin to hold your tail wire. Then another hole is drilled to accommodate a solid wood endpin at a fixed length. It's also angled back about 45 degrees. Perhaps someone here has more info as to what exactly I'm talking about as I have been unable to find it on google.. | You're probably referring to the device made by KC Strings. The angled endpin has been popularized by Francois Rabbath and luthier Christian Laborie. The KC Strings device was developed so that an angled hole doesn't have to be drilled into the bass block to accommodate the Laborie endpin, as it's called. The problem with their design as I see it, is that you no longer have use of the straight endpin. Laborie style endpins are available in wood and carbon fibre.
Last edited by Eric Hochberg : 07-01-2009 at 09:30 AM.
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07-02-2009, 07:54 AM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by james condino I've turned solid endpins on a lathe out of rosewood, African blackwood, both hard and soft maples, and spruce. They each had their own subtle differences. I like the clean simplicity of it and the solid contact all the way through. Some folks don't like the non-adjustability, but I've never had an issue with it. If you've got access to a good lathe, even if you make one out of a relatively expensive wood like African Blackwood, you are only out $20; 1/10th of that for a nice domestic hardwood. I've also fabricated a simple laminating mold and glued up 1/8" stock to produce several angled endpins of all solid construction that can be used with a standard hole. Check out the thread on my new bass build for photos of a straight Michigan red maple one: james' bass build
james | I think the non-adjustability is not an issue, because the endpin is pulled out and fastened to one particular length anyway. So I only need to pull off the endpin during transportation. I see your bass has got a permanent mounted endpin. In my opinion that´s trouble, because you get 1 1/2 feet longer bass to put in your car.
Maybe I should try making an endpin out of spruce, cause the availability is very good on that particular wood. Maybe also maple.
Would the spruce make my bass sound darker? | 
07-02-2009, 08:31 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Chicago | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassalova So I only need to pull off the endpin during transportation. | Well, you need something in there to rest the bass on at all times I would think. | 
07-02-2009, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by ehochberg Well, you need something in there to rest the bass on at all times I would think. | The endpin doesn´t have to stay put when I´ve got this dedicated plug for the tailgut. I guess the end block of the bass is glued properly to the body, so there won´t be any breakage problems here.
Just need a big, fat wooden endpin!
But I might also make myself a dedicated "transport knob" to stick into the end block
Last edited by Bassalova : 07-02-2009 at 10:37 AM.
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07-07-2009, 01:22 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Cross Junction, VA | | | I studied with a guy in Detroit that had a bass that used cut down pool cues for endpins. There were about 4 different lengths. When you used his bass to take your lesson, you stuck in the length you liked.
I think pool cues are made of hickory.
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Pöllmann 5 String Bussetto 1999
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Pops Rosin
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07-09-2009, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Bentgen I studied with a guy in Detroit that had a bass that used cut down pool cues for endpins. There were about 4 different lengths. When you used his bass to take your lesson, you stuck in the length you liked.
I think pool cues are made of hickory. | I might consider something like a sledge shaft or similar shafts. They are made of hickory too. And they are also preshaped  | 
07-09-2009, 07:07 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Jeff City, MO | | | how about drumsticks Somewhere I read someone had taken high quality drumstick, made of hickory and turned it down on a lathe to make the endpin. I bought a set recently, but have not yet gotten around to trying it. | 
07-09-2009, 07:12 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Milwaukee | | | I'm using a wooden curtain rod with a rubber bottle stopper on the end! | 
07-22-2009, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by dgelting I'm using a wooden curtain rod with a rubber bottle stopper on the end! | Sounds like a simple and clean solution. Curtain rods are made of average spruce, I guess. Same wood as the soundpost. | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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