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Setup & Repair [DB] Exploring the issues involved in setting up and repairing basses, along with luthier recommendations.


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  #1  
Old 06-30-2009, 06:32 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
What kind of wood for endpin?

Since I have a bass with the tailgut mounted around a knob in front of the endpin, I thought I just might try a complete solid wooden endpin. That means I mount a piece of wood in a lathe and make myself an endpin that fits right into the end block of the bass.

I think this would improve the bottom frequencies drastically.

But I kind of wonder which wood would be the most resonant and suitable for this jumbo endpin......

Any ideas?
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  #2  
Old 06-30-2009, 07:08 PM
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Some people use Oak, I think Rufus Reid might have that on his bass.
  #3  
Old 06-30-2009, 08:41 PM
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I've heard of a nifty device that was being marketed at ISB called a "sex change". It has a plug for your existing endpin hole that acts as a button like on a violin to hold your tail wire. Then another hole is drilled to accommodate a solid wood endpin at a fixed length. It's also angled back about 45 degrees. Perhaps someone here has more info as to what exactly I'm talking about as I have been unable to find it on google..
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  #4  
Old 06-30-2009, 09:35 PM
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I haven't seen the plug but I'd like to try it out. I have a Laborie end pin in one my basses. It's a 44-degree angle, I think. Mine is made of pernambuco and it's a great improvement over the regular metal pin. The angle takes a little getting used to, but it's great for aging backs!

But the metal pin is still in its place, and I can't help but think a wooden plug would help even more.
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  #5  
Old 06-30-2009, 09:50 PM
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Dave, just take the steel pin out...
  #6  
Old 06-30-2009, 11:40 PM
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I've turned solid endpins on a lathe out of rosewood, African blackwood, both hard and soft maples, and spruce. They each had their own subtle differences. I like the clean simplicity of it and the solid contact all the way through. Some folks don't like the non-adjustability, but I've never had an issue with it. If you've got access to a good lathe, even if you make one out of a relatively expensive wood like African Blackwood, you are only out $20; 1/10th of that for a nice domestic hardwood. I've also fabricated a simple laminating mold and glued up 1/8" stock to produce several angled endpins of all solid construction that can be used with a standard hole. Check out the thread on my new bass build for photos of a straight Michigan red maple one:

james' bass build


james
  #7  
Old 07-01-2009, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DallasStrings View Post
I've heard of a nifty device that was being marketed at ISB called a "sex change". It has a plug for your existing endpin hole that acts as a button like on a violin to hold your tail wire. Then another hole is drilled to accommodate a solid wood endpin at a fixed length. It's also angled back about 45 degrees. Perhaps someone here has more info as to what exactly I'm talking about as I have been unable to find it on google..
You're probably referring to the device made by KC Strings. The angled endpin has been popularized by Francois Rabbath and luthier Christian Laborie. The KC Strings device was developed so that an angled hole doesn't have to be drilled into the bass block to accommodate the Laborie endpin, as it's called. The problem with their design as I see it, is that you no longer have use of the straight endpin. Laborie style endpins are available in wood and carbon fibre.
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Last edited by Eric Hochberg : 07-01-2009 at 09:30 AM.
  #8  
Old 07-02-2009, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james condino View Post
I've turned solid endpins on a lathe out of rosewood, African blackwood, both hard and soft maples, and spruce. They each had their own subtle differences. I like the clean simplicity of it and the solid contact all the way through. Some folks don't like the non-adjustability, but I've never had an issue with it. If you've got access to a good lathe, even if you make one out of a relatively expensive wood like African Blackwood, you are only out $20; 1/10th of that for a nice domestic hardwood. I've also fabricated a simple laminating mold and glued up 1/8" stock to produce several angled endpins of all solid construction that can be used with a standard hole. Check out the thread on my new bass build for photos of a straight Michigan red maple one:

james' bass build

james
I think the non-adjustability is not an issue, because the endpin is pulled out and fastened to one particular length anyway. So I only need to pull off the endpin during transportation. I see your bass has got a permanent mounted endpin. In my opinion that´s trouble, because you get 1 1/2 feet longer bass to put in your car.
Maybe I should try making an endpin out of spruce, cause the availability is very good on that particular wood. Maybe also maple.
Would the spruce make my bass sound darker?
  #9  
Old 07-02-2009, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassalova View Post
So I only need to pull off the endpin during transportation.
Well, you need something in there to rest the bass on at all times I would think.
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  #10  
Old 07-02-2009, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ehochberg View Post
Well, you need something in there to rest the bass on at all times I would think.
The endpin doesn´t have to stay put when I´ve got this dedicated plug for the tailgut. I guess the end block of the bass is glued properly to the body, so there won´t be any breakage problems here.
Just need a big, fat wooden endpin!
But I might also make myself a dedicated "transport knob" to stick into the end block

Last edited by Bassalova : 07-02-2009 at 10:37 AM.
  #11  
Old 07-07-2009, 01:22 PM
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I studied with a guy in Detroit that had a bass that used cut down pool cues for endpins. There were about 4 different lengths. When you used his bass to take your lesson, you stuck in the length you liked.

I think pool cues are made of hickory.
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  #12  
Old 07-09-2009, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Bentgen View Post
I studied with a guy in Detroit that had a bass that used cut down pool cues for endpins. There were about 4 different lengths. When you used his bass to take your lesson, you stuck in the length you liked.

I think pool cues are made of hickory.
I might consider something like a sledge shaft or similar shafts. They are made of hickory too. And they are also preshaped
  #13  
Old 07-09-2009, 07:07 PM
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Location: Jeff City, MO
how about drumsticks

Somewhere I read someone had taken high quality drumstick, made of hickory and turned it down on a lathe to make the endpin. I bought a set recently, but have not yet gotten around to trying it.
  #14  
Old 07-09-2009, 07:12 PM
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I'm using a wooden curtain rod with a rubber bottle stopper on the end!
  #15  
Old 07-22-2009, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgelting View Post
I'm using a wooden curtain rod with a rubber bottle stopper on the end!
Sounds like a simple and clean solution. Curtain rods are made of average spruce, I guess. Same wood as the soundpost.
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