When you cut corners..

[Cody Sisk]

Here comes a rant!!

If this post keeps ONE person from buying junk basses off the internet or "Ma n Pa" music shops without a clue, I'll be satisfied.

You can't build a 3/4 size bass and put a 2x6 with routed corners in the bottom and expect it to be a suitable endblock. I now have proof of what can happen! A photo never lies!

flickr

The block is too narrow and if the seam pops as it did in this case, the inadequate width will put added pressure on the ribs and crack em like this..

flickr

The top is staying on for this one. I'll glue everything up and hope for the best. This bass is a ticking time bomb. It's only a matter of time before the lower bouts and the endblock fail again.

Cost of the bass- I guess less than $1000
Cost of initial repair- maybe $150
Cost of taking the top off, replacing the end block, repairing future rib damage- $1500 plus
Cost of educating the customer that they shouldn't have cut corners and bought this junker in the first place- priceless..

[vejesse]

What are the dimensions of the block?

[George700DL]

Originally Posted by DallasStrings

Here comes a rant!!

If this post keeps ONE person from buying junk basses off the internet or "Ma n Pa" music shops without a clue, I'll be satisfied.

You can't build a 3/4 size bass and put a 2x6 with routed corners in the bottom and expect it to be a suitable endblock. I now have proof of what can happen! A photo never lies!

Mine is made from 2 2x6's , one rotated so the grains aren't parallel. And the bottom is curved, matching the ribs.

George

[Cody Sisk]

Originally Posted by vejesse

What are the dimensions of the block?

Maybe 4 inches wide, the ribs are 8 inches deep

[Gearhead43]

What then constitutes a suitable endblock, if I may so humbly inquire?

[james condino]

[quote=DallasStrings;9010683]Here comes a rant!!

You go Cody!!! It looks like somebody dropped it too hard on the endpin.

So............even with that fancy new million dollar building, they've still got you locked up in the gimp room working on cheap imported basses????? I feel your pain...

j.

[Cody Sisk]

Originally Posted by Gearhead43

What then constitutes a suitable endblock, if I may so humbly inquire?

One that can't be carved from a single, standard cut timber for starters.. In this bass, a block with at least an inch more width on either side would work fine.

[Cody Sisk]

[quote=james condino;9011211]

Originally Posted by DallasStrings

Here comes a rant!!

You go Cody!!! It looks like somebody dropped it too hard on the endpin.

So............even with that fancy new million dollar building, they've still got you locked up in the gimp room working on cheap imported basses????? I feel your pain...

j.

Ya, definitely an impact, but it only sped up the inevitable.

I don't want to be that snob that turns these people away in shame, but at the same time I've got overhead to pay for.

I just need to get me a nice, pre-joined sitka spruce top to widdle on to make up for it..

[George700DL]

Originally Posted by DallasStrings

One that can't be carved from a single, standard cut timber for starters..

So laminated is the way to go? Sorry if that's a stupid question.

The reason I laminated mine (like I mentioned, 2 pieces, grain at 90 degrees) was my concern about the block possibly splitting along the grain lines.

George

[Cody Sisk]

George I think your two-piece block should hold up way better than the one I'm dealing with here. The only thing that worries me about the 90° angle is that the end grain doesn't touch the top and the back. I would be concerned about the block shrinking and separating..

I like to do my blocks at a 45-60° grain angle so that end grain still touches the top and back, but is not parallel with the grain of the top/back.

[George700DL]

Originally Posted by DallasStrings

George I think your two-piece block should hold up way better than the one I'm dealing with here. The only thing that worries me about the 90° angle is that the end grain doesn't touch the top and the back. I would be concerned about the block shrinking and separating..

I like to do my blocks at a 45-60° grain angle so that end grain still touches the top and back, but is not parallel with the grain of the top/back.

I thought of that as well when I made it That part does not touch the plates - it's about 1/2" shy on both top and bottom - I'm referring to the part further from the endpin. It's merely there to thicken up the block (extra support for the endpin socket),and to prevent the block splitting. The combined thickness is around 2 inches, if I remember correctly.

George

[forester]

it's routine cody...
even when the endblock is sufficient in size the quick glue process on green wood fails and the result is the same. it's even more prevalent with cellos. button it back up, and inform your customer of its' weak links.
call it job security