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11-12-2006, 10:51 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Boston | | | Wooden Bridge Adjusters - how to make? Most wooden bridge adjusters available are made to
7/16 -14NC.
I would like to try to make my own. The only thread cutting system for wood is sold for a 3/4 size dowel at the smallest. This is too big make wooden adjusters with.
My question is how are the threads cut to make the 7/16 -14nc without tearing up the wood. I have tried it on a lathe and the wood just tears too easy. Even after soaking it in oil.
How does Lou DiLeone make his adjusters so clean?
I have access to a Sherline milling machine and some other things. I would like to try making a set for my self.
Does any one know how to thread the maple at this size? 
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11-13-2006, 05:50 AM
|  | Supporting Member Luthier: Bresque Basses, rep: Paulin EUB | | Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Sydney, Australia | | | can't you just use a metal tap and die? | 
11-13-2006, 08:36 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Stanley, KS (Kansas City) | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by Matthew Tucker can't you just use a metal tap and die? | I've never managed to get it to work. It tears the wood instead of cutting it. I would love to know how Bob Stenholm made them (from wood). They are works of art. There is a German wood thread cutting tool, but it wood be too course for bridge adjusters. If I were going to make a device for making adjuster size threads, I would probably base it on the Beall Wood Threader and use Dremel or Foredom tool instead of a router. I started to make one once, but never got around to finishing it.
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95% Retired Mid-Western Luthier
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11-13-2006, 08:46 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Ontario Canada | | | A buddy of mine turned some on the lathe and turned them to wood screw threads (reversed on each end).
They turn in and out at the same time, then drilled as small pilot hole in the maple bridge and foot for the screw to turn in and out of...
It works as they are on several bass's now for several years with no failures in the bridges or screws. | 
11-13-2006, 10:53 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Houston, TX | | | | 
11-13-2006, 11:02 AM
| | AES Fine Instruments | | Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Brewster, NY, USA | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by basswraith Most wooden bridge adjusters available are made to
7/16 -14NC.
I would like to try to make my own. The only thread cutting system for wood is sold for a 3/4 size dowel at the smallest. This is too big make wooden adjusters with.
My question is how are the threads cut to make the 7/16 -14nc without tearing up the wood. I have tried it on a lathe and the wood just tears too easy. Even after soaking it in oil.
How does Lou DiLeone make his adjusters so clean?
I have access to a Sherline milling machine and some other things. I would like to try making a set for my self.
Does any one know how to thread the maple at this size?  | You have to run the dowel through a router bit while turning it at the right pitch. It requires a jig and a bit which cuts at the proper angle. | 
11-13-2006, 11:47 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Stanley, KS (Kansas City) | | It looks like one of the easiest ways to do it might be to buy one of the 1/2" Beal Wood Threader kit and then machine your own substitute Delrin insert to what ever thread size you want to make. Finding a router bit cutter the right size might be a problem, but you could probably have the Beall cutter reground to the proper angle by a good shapening shop if it didn't work as is. That sounds like a fun project that I may try myself.
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95% Retired Mid-Western Luthier
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11-13-2006, 12:36 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Stanley, KS (Kansas City) | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by KSB - Ken Smith Sounds almost insane to me when you can buy some great ones. Arnold put these in a few of my Basses and they are great. | What is insane about it? Those adjusters look like Stenholm's and if they are recent, they aren't ebony. If you look on Arnold's NewStandard webite, you see that he laments that the shafts are now made of composite fibre instead of ebony. If you can't buy what you want, you make it yourself.
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95% Retired Mid-Western Luthier
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11-13-2006, 02:46 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Stanley, KS (Kansas City) | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by KSB - Ken Smith I believe my adjusters are PART Ebony and part Delrin or some other composite. "I" am happy with them for what ever that is worth. For the Basses I have and have in Restoration, these are the adjusters I now prefer on the finest Basses I have ever had. | I agree that the Stenholm's are the among the best adjusters out there. FWIW, I have sets of the old original ebony shaft Stenholms on several of my basses (which are not the finest Basses I have ever had). Unfortunately, you can no longer get them with ebony shafts.
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95% Retired Mid-Western Luthier
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11-13-2006, 04:10 PM
| | AES Fine Instruments | | Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Brewster, NY, USA | | | The ones I've been using are from Lemur. They have a 10mm ebony shaft/screw and a phenolic wheel. Very nice. | 
11-13-2006, 04:28 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Stanley, KS (Kansas City) | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by arnoldschnitzer The ones I've been using are from Lemur. They have a 10mm ebony shaft/screw and a phenolic wheel. Very nice. | Interesting. 10mm is just over 3/8". Are the threads metric? It looks from Ken's photo to be a knockoff of the Stenholm/Robertson adjusters. I always marveled at Bob Stenholm's workmanship on the ebony threads. Are the Lemur adjusters equal to that standard?
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95% Retired Mid-Western Luthier
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11-13-2006, 08:02 PM
| | Registered User Endorsing Artist; Arnold Schnitzer/ Wil DeSola New Standard RN DB | | Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Northern NJ | | | adjusters-wood vs. aluminum What about Jeff's case for aluminum adjusters? Seems to make sense to me. http://www.jeffbollbach.com/JB%20II/luthier_rant9.htm
BG
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-Straight ahead and strive for tone
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11-13-2006, 08:11 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Traverse City, Michigan | | | The best adjusters I have used so far are made by Shen. They have an aluminum shaft and wood wheel. I really like them.
I don't have the depth of experience as others in this post so take it for what it is worth.
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Ken McKay - Michigan - USA
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11-13-2006, 10:23 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Boston | | | I agree with modifying the Beal wood threading kit to receive a smaller sized dowel. Too bad it costs so much $. I might try to re create it.
Is it possible to use a drill press instead of the router?
Would a drill press be at the wrong speed for this ?
Why make a set of Maple adjusters?
Well there are not many people that make them at all. They are not available from any commercial catalogue either.
Also I have some colleagues that have requested them for there symphony basses.
And lastly , cuz I feel like it. | 
11-14-2006, 06:21 AM
| | AES Fine Instruments | | Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Brewster, NY, USA | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by Bob Branstetter Interesting. 10mm is just over 3/8". Are the threads metric? It looks from Ken's photo to be a knockoff of the Stenholm/Robertson adjusters. I always marveled at Bob Stenholm's workmanship on the ebony threads. Are the Lemur adjusters equal to that standard? | Yes, the threads are metric, and yes, the workmanship is equal. Thankfully, the pilot hole for the unthreaded shaft is the right size for cutting the threads on the other side. You only drill once, and this helps keep everything accurate and tidy. | 
11-14-2006, 06:26 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Stanley, KS (Kansas City) | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by basswraith Is it possible to use a drill press instead of the router?
Would a drill press be at the wrong speed for this ? | The drill press speed might be fast enough, but it would be iffy at best. The Beall is setup for mounting a router and and there would be an alignment problem without a mounting plate. Plus - You don't have much room for error with those threads, so alignment would be critical. Every home shop should have a router anyway 
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95% Retired Mid-Western Luthier
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11-14-2006, 06:40 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Stanley, KS (Kansas City) | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by arnoldschnitzer Yes, the threads are metric, and yes, the workmanship is equal. Thankfully, the pilot hole for the unthreaded shaft is the right size for cutting the threads on the other side. You only drill once, and this helps keep everything accurate and tidy. | Now that is a great improvement. I never have understood why all adjusters (Aluminum, Brass, Wood, what have you) are not made that way. I've kept an old Unimat mini-lathe in my shop for years just for turning down the non-threaded end to the diameter of the thread drill size. It would be nice not to have to mess with that or worse enlarging the hole while fitting them. Thanks...
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95% Retired Mid-Western Luthier
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11-14-2006, 07:54 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Boston | | | Do you guys know what kind of adhesives are used in the wooden adjusters ? What do they use to fuse the wheel onto the axle? | 
11-15-2006, 06:49 AM
| | AES Fine Instruments | | Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Brewster, NY, USA | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by basswraith Do you guys know what kind of adhesives are used in the wooden adjusters ? What do they use to fuse the wheel onto the axle? | Glue  | 
11-15-2006, 10:04 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2001 Location: St. Louis, MO USA | | | I really like the adjusters that Nick used on my Shen. They are big and easy to turn. Also, the threads are coarse and not a fine machine thread. This makes more sense to me in wood. Plus, it takes less turning to move the bridge.
They seem to be made of some sort of plastic or other composite material. | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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