How to buy my first acoustic guitar?

[Kruton]

So basically, one thing has lead to another and I want to buy an acoustic guitar (please don't hurt me, I am still playing bass). Now I know all the in's and out's of buying a bass, and I particularly know about common mistakes newbies make when buying their first bass. I imagine that there are all sorts of these with guitars too but to be fair acoustic guitars are completely different beasts and I was wondering if anyone knows of any good guides or just general tips for buying my first acoustic guitar? Also, is there a forum like this for acoustic guitars?

Thanks

[stratovani]

Go to your local GC, go to their acoustic guitar room and try out some guitars in your price range (whatever that may be). Pay close attention to the action and string spacing. You want a guitar with a good, balanced sound, projects well, and is comfortable to play. You'll find that, much like basses, you don't have to spend a lot of money to get a quality instrument. And if you should find one, then get a hard case for it. I've always been of the opinion that gig bags and acoustic guitars don't mix!

[tplyons]

Find one that feels good, and has good action and string spacing. Ignore what the headstock says, at that price range, I've found brand has very little to do with a good sound. It all depends on the top, and at that price range, the quality can vary a LOT.

Once you find one that feels good, have someone play them for you. So much easier to get an idea of their tone from in front, by someone who actually knows how to play.

My Ibanez AW100 is still my #1 acoustic after 9 years. I paid $350 and have yet to find a better sounding guitar at twice the price.

[AnchorHoy]

You could do worse than GC. At least they have a reasonably good variety of makes/models. Expect the strings to be pretty much shot. Once you home in on one or two serious possibilities, ask 'em to change the strings for you. OTOH some GCs are totally clueless when it comes to acoustics. If you see one or more with a cracked top or sides, go elsewhere, they're not keeping their guitar room properly humidified - the kiss of death with quality acoustic instruments

Until you get up towards the $1000 level, neck width at the nut will be usually be very close to 1 11/16". This may be workable or it may not - much depends on the size of your hands. For me (fat fingers), it's pushing the limits of 'too narrow'. YMMV. 1¾" at the nut is much easier to find at higher price levels, and that scant 1/16" makes a surprising difference in playability. Also stay aware of neck shape in conjunction with neck width. An "old-timey" v-shaped neck is a very different animal from a modern "low-profile" neck, even when the width at the nut is the same

Anything over $500 (street price), you should be getting a solid top with whatever you buy - this is critical for long-term improvement of tone. Laminated tops simply won't improve over time like a solid top will. Laminated back/sides are a factor in tone and sustain, but nowhere near as important as the top

Everybody has their personal preferences as far as brands. For the mid-range ($500-1000) mine is Yamaha. Best bang-for-the-buck by far IMHO. Pickup systems are especially good for this price range - APX and CPX model pickup systems are simply outstanding. Personally, I don't care for Takamine at all - too many QC issues for my taste, plus they often sound pretty dead unplugged. I've played one recent Epiphone Masterbilt that was remarkably good for the price point - worth looking into

Above that price point, the field widens considerably and tonal goals start to become more of an issue. Each maker tends to have a characteristic tone that they strive for. Martins generally sound nothing like Taylors, and Gibsons will be even more distinctive. Guild is often the best dollar value in the ~ $1000 range. One complication with Guild is that there are two different 'lines' - GAD (made in China) and Made in USA (well worth the extra $)

In general, acoustic guitars are much more variable than other factory-made instruments. This makes it much more of a crapshoot if you intend to buy online. It's not like buying a Fender P online and being reasonably sure of getting a good one.....Best solution by far is to go to a big enough store to be able to do A/B comparisons right there in the store. This is especially critical with Gibsons, where QC tends to be all over the map. Even with supposedly "identical" models, some are simply superb and others are amazingly bad. Even Taylors, which are pretty much the ultimate in 'machine made' acoustics can vary significantly, just because of the inherent variability of the wood used to build them

Best all-around forum I've found is the Acoustic Guitar Forum. Very tolerant of newbies and extremely helpful advice from players of all skill (and income....) levels

[Kruton]

Ya I definetly want to play it before I buy it. My range is about ~$500 for this one which will hopefully buy me a decent starter instrument. I want something that is pretty versatile and I want to be able to flatpick and fingerpick. Should I just avoid laminated tops altogether if this is an instrument I want to keep? I had no idea about tonal improvement. Shows how much I know about guitars

[cb56]

sent you a PM about a book.
btw, in that price range check out Seagull guitars.

[MalcolmAmos]

Always wanted a Seagull, good luck finding one in the 48.

[cb56]

Originally Posted by MalcolmAmos

Always wanted a Seagull, good luck finding one in the 48.

Huh? They are everywhere, including MF if you don't have a store nearby.
Click for USA Dealers
Dealers in Texas

[cb56]

Also Yamaha makes some very good entry level models.

[cb56]

Originally Posted by Kruton

.....Also, is there a forum like this for acoustic guitars?
Thanks

http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/forums/index.php

[PaulNYC]

I find the "La Patrie" to be a rally interesting option. They're classical guitars with necks that have truss rods and radiused necks. Currently though I am using a hand me down store brand classical guitar that looks and sounds great. It is also over 30 years old. Perhaps it aged well.

It is certainly worth asking family if someone has an acoustic they could lend for an extended period.

[thwump64]

I found that Takamine and Yamaha make very good acoustics.

[spitfire70]

Originally Posted by thwump64

I found that Takamine and Yamaha make very good acoustics.

+1

As far as consistency, quality, and bang for your buck, Takaminies and Yamahas are great!

[Philbiker]

Look for the guitars with the Seagull on the headstock. You can not go wrong with one.

[Kruton]

Just got back. I went to a GC and played around a bit today. I found a Yamaha that felt good but I really didn't like the tone I got with a pick. I played a couple seagulls but they all had worn-out strings so I couldn't get a good feel for the tone. There was an Ibanez I liked but it had an auditorium body. What is the purpose of this type of body? What are the tonal differences? I'm going to hit a couple local stores tomorrow and play around. I'm really ready to start learning more but I have been in the music market long enough to know not to jump at your first inkling.

One more thing. Just from what I saw today, all of the guitars except for the ~$150 ones claimed they were solid tops. Is this accurate or is there some sort of catch somewhere?

[cb56]

Most guitars are solid tops these days except the real cheapies. You can tell by looking at the grain of the wood on the edge of the soundhole. Learned that from the book I was telling you about.

[Mario Ed]

Generally smaller body guitars like auditorium, concert, 00 and 000 sizes have more pronounced mids and trebles than a dreadnaught. Dreads tend to be more bass heavy and are favored by flat pickers because of their ability to cut through the mix with other acoustic instruments. The better smaller bodied guitars are more balanced across the strings and popular with finger style players or folks who find the dread size uncomfortable. The other common acoustic guitar size, a jumbo usually has a lower bout that is about the same size as a dread with a smaller upper bout. They are usually pretty balanced across the strings with more projection than the smaller bodies. If you're looking for a guitar primarily for flatpicking I'd lean more towards a dreadnaught than a smaller body.

Very broadly I think acoustic flat top guitars can be divided into three tone/sound camps, Martin, Gibson & Taylor. To my ears Martin and Martin clones tend towards a darker woody sound with more pronounced bass, Gibsons tend to be less bass heavy and drier, Taylors seem to have more pronounced trebles and are rather bright. Blueridge and Recording King make some Martin & Gibson clones in your price range and I think Taylor has the 110 series which is in your price range as well. The Epiphone Masterbuilt series are based on Gibson models and pretty good bang for the buck. The Breedlove Passport series are also in your price range, these tend more towards the Taylor sound.

At around $500 most of the new guitars should have a solid top and laminated backs & sides. For used guitars you're just at the edge of finding some that are all solid woods. I've seen used Larivee and Martin 15 series for around $600. Larivees are somewhere between Martin & Taylor in terms of sound and a good bang for the buck in an all solid guitar. One other thing to be aware of is that unless a guitar specifies solid backs & sides they will most likely be laminate. The sound and tone in acoustic guitars can vary a good deal within any model so it is always best to try before you buy. While I prefer the Martin sound, Taylors are probably the most consistent in terms of their sound for guitars within a particular series.

Regards,
Ed

[electracoyote]

Originally Posted by Kruton

Just got back. I went to a GC and played around a bit today. I found a Yamaha that felt good but I really didn't like the tone I got with a pick. I played a couple seagulls but they all had worn-out strings so I couldn't get a good feel for the tone.

Here's the same dilemma you'll have with a bass: An otherwise nice model that plays/sounds bad because the store won't set it up properly.

I find most acoustics off the rack are set up very poorly, so if you're looking for one with great action and string spacing, you have a long search ahead.

Just like with basses, you have to be able to project what the guitar will play like after it has been set up properly. Like basses, it will probably need a truss tweak, the saddle lowered, and the nut touched up. The strings may be old, and will need to be spaced and centered on the saddle and fretboard.

Perhaps if you shuck out some serious cash you can avoid this, but I have purchased $4,000.00+ custom shop models right out of the factory that needed a tweak, so I kinda doubt it.

You're better off assessing the instrument for obvious construction and finish flaws, and start by reading on-line reviews so you know you're in the ballpark for a winner.

There was an Ibanez I liked but it had an auditorium body. What is the purpose of this type of body? What are the tonal differences?

"Concert" "Auditorium" "O-OOO, OM" etc. designate a slightly smaller and more hourglass-shaped body. Eric Clapton has favored this shape for awhile as did a lot of early bluesmen. IMHO, it is a very comfortable body shape and you don't lose much from the more common and slightly larger dreadnought, perhaps just a little low end, but still a very even-toned instrument that projects well in my experience. My #1 at the moment is a Martin OOOX1 auditorium, great guitar.

One more thing. Just from what I saw today, all of the guitars except for the ~$150 ones claimed they were solid tops. Is this accurate or is there some sort of catch somewhere?

As a marketing ploy, some guitars are advertised as having a "solid top." It may be solid, but solid what? You want solid spruce, the entire thickness, not a cheaper wood with a thin veneer of spruce laminated on top. This is the singlemost thing you can do to ensure a quality tone.

[Philbiker]

Agree with everything electracoyote said except the part in the last paragraph about Spruce. Cedar is nice, too. I've never played a Seagull that didn't have potential.

[Kruton]

I played some Taylors I liked today, but they were a little more expensive than I think they are worth. Can anyone tell me the main differences between the Seagull Entourage and the S6? I think I am going to get a Seagull, just not sure which one. Honestly I like the Entourage just as well as the S6.