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  #1  
Old 05-20-2004, 09:35 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Bowmanville, Ontario, Canada
Making my own rack case

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it came to me today... I am a welder... I have access to steel, sheet metal, welders, grinders and powder coating...


I think I should make my own rack case

is there ANYTHING I should know before doing so?

I'd likely make it from sheet metal and angle bar...

please let me know if there is something I should know NOT to do that might mess up my head and rackmounts
  #2  
Old 05-20-2004, 09:56 PM
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ontario, Canada
SBK = (Shouldn't-have Bought Krap)...my hand's hurt.

I don't know much about the construction of rack cases, but I can tell you this:

Make it sturdy, yet lightweight

Get Comfortable handles (SBK case handles hurt and therefore SUCK!!!) use the flip up kind (like Clydesdale uses).

Removable wheels are a nice add-on

A mounted power bar is nice too...and a built in custom patch ( 1 connection to rack ) will make load-ins/outs a dream.

Make it 2 rack spaces bigger and add a "Rack Drawer" (very handy for strings, batteries, yadayadayada

And finally, make me one too!

Introvox
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  #3  
Old 05-20-2004, 10:11 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Bowmanville, Ontario, Canada
hmmm I'll see how mine turns out...then maybe a buisiness
  #4  
Old 05-20-2004, 10:26 PM
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ontario, Canada
Look at commercial rack cases and learn from what they do wrong:

Weight, Handles, Locks etc.

Oh by the way...don't forget to offset the handles, so when you carry it full, it stays level...
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Don't get me started on the Pyro Technician....
  #5  
Old 05-20-2004, 10:33 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Bowmanville, Ontario, Canada
what about the inside where the rackmounts sit... so I cushion it? how can I make it convinient and rack friendly?
  #6  
Old 05-20-2004, 10:51 PM
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Ontario, Canada
The Bottom Unit should be supported I would imagine, (I would use a 1/4" - 1/2" layer of styrofoam or rubber) and the others rest on whatever's beneath them, make sure to allow room for cooling fans, input/outputs etc.

Copy a screw-tap scheme from a clydedale case or other, most rackmounts allow for play, and the case has the screwholes exact...allow for single/double/triple plus rackmount sizes.

but I cant stress enough, make it easy on the hands and level when carrying!!!

Oh, and make the covers easy to get on & off in any temperature condition.

Make mine in black...hehehe
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Our soundman's not to sound,
and our lightman's not too bright.
Don't get me started on the Pyro Technician....
  #7  
Old 05-21-2004, 05:10 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Denver CO, New Orleans LA
Make sure your mounting holes are precise...you wont have to thread tap them as you can get hardware kits with threaded "clips" that snap over each hole. Ive always wanted to make one with covers that have a lock on them, similar to say, Craftsman toolboxes. Just a bit of added security.
Good Luck!
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  #8  
Old 05-25-2004, 04:02 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Dallas
check out the spec's Mesa Boogie uses for their road racks. They use a spring loaded mechanism instead of the standard foam. This allows for superior ventilation, especially if you have any units in the rack (Tubes) that need good cooling.
  #9  
Old 05-25-2004, 08:09 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Dallas, TX
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Put the handles in a place where the rack will BALANCE when loaded with a power amp and gear. Most racks I see have the handles set to that they are symetrical. Once you load them with gear, they are heavy on one end and harder to carry.
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