Places to live in NYC

[brianh]

Hi,

I'm coming to New York the second week of December to find an apartment for January. I've been a few times in the past 6 months so I know how hard it can be to find a place. At this point my plan is to find an available room/sublet from someone who already has a place on Craigslist and do something somewhat short term (<6 months). I'm thinking 6 months will allow me to get to know the areas of the city I want to live in and meet some cool people to live with.

Can any NY guys comment on certain areas I should try to live in? The things I'm trying to consider are:

-"Professional" bass player = BUDGET (I can go as high as $1000/month but would like to keep it at or under $800).
-I practice during the daytime (but living with a 9-5 roommate should be cool).
-Neighborhood safety for coming home late at night.
-Location and being able to get to gig via public transit.
-I might bring a car, but most likely not right away (only if I need one). It's a VERY minimal conern right now.
-Being relatively near other musicians.
-?????

In Brooklyn, I have visited and enjoyed areas such as: Boerum Hill, Windsor Terrace, Kensington, Park Slope (probably can't afford). There are other cool areas I'm sure.

In Manhattan, I have never been to but am looking at: Inwood and Washington Heights. I have many friends on the upper west side(below 105th) and I'm guessing I probably can't afford the area. Actually, I think most of Manhattan is not in my price range but if I could find something with enough space it might be cool.

Also, I'm planning on looking for a place between December 10-19 while I am in New York. Is this a good time to find a place starting January. I NEED to get a place on this trip.

So, to those of you in the know with this stuff...I would really appreciate any input you can offer. I'm totally open to other areas too (Jersey, Queens...) so please let me know opinion.

Thanks a lot!

[anonymous02282011]

i lived in "south slope" with a roomate for 600/mo. close enough to park slope; it was 22nd btwn 4th and 5th. also, i'd avoid bushwick in brooklyn. it's a great city with a lot to offer, but you do end up paying through the nose for just about everything.

[mheintz]

Long Island city (one stop from midtown) and Astoria in Queens.

[Jason Sypher]

Greenpoint:

It's very close to Williamsburg and you can't beat the Polish diners (or the gorgeous Polish girls, but I digress) for great cheap food. Train service is the G which is pretty lame. You can park there if you have a car. Pretty safe.

Windsor Terrace: close to the slope, safe enough.

Astoria:
Seemingly far away from the rest of NYC but actually a pretty close train ride. Nice neighborhood. Safe.

Jackson Heights:
Similar but full of Indian food and shops. A real cultural experience. I like it but it's a ways out there.

Fort Greene:
Up and coming neighborhood for some time now. Close to Park Slope but less white. Cool vibe and close to Prospect Park, Brooklyn Museum etc. Safe enough. Gorgeous brownstone architecture like Park Slope.

Don't total give up on Park Slope, Cobble Hill, Carroll Gardens. You might get lucky and find something you can afford. Even though it's NY there are occasional deals out there that crop up now and then. When I came here 7 years ago I found a nice 800 sq. ft. apartment on a nice street in Greenpoint for $700.

I realize this is a little Park Slope centric as it is my neighborhood and I think it's pretty ideal. Lots of musicians, writers, food and, though not a lot of clubs, some really, really cool ones like Barbes and Southpaw.

Good luck

[brianh]

any opinion on places in New Jersey, such as Union City. Seems close enough to Manhattan...but not sure of how to get a double bass on a bus. There is no train from there, right?

Also, what about Boerum Hill....Inwood?

[Michael Case]

Astoria and Long Island City are still pretty reasonable, I live in Astoria, it's a pretty safe place, parking is a bit of a pain with alternate side parking, but it gets me up in the morning so I can start practicing by 10am. You could look in Midwood, Brooklyn I grew up in Brooklyn and Midwood is nice and reasonable (a little further out from Manhattan, but close to the Q train). If you're gonna drive I'd also look in Sheepshead bay, Marine Park, and Bensonhurst all in Brooklyn. Those places are further from Manhattan (and some of the cheaper+safer spots in Brooklyn), but if you're driving they are good options. In my opinion, Inwood is so far uptown that you might as well live in the outer boroughs. Plus it's in Manhattan, nothing stays cheap for long in Manhattan. With Harlem and Washington Heights becoming more gentrified, upper Manhattan is going to get as pricey as lower Manhattan. I know someone who got a nice big apartment for a reasonable rent in Inwood though.

[salcott]

Inwood is great! I would also look over the bridge in Marble Hill/Riverdale along the 1 train.

[brianh]

Thanks for the response guys, it's a big help.

Aside from Craigslist, are there any other good ways find a place/roomate?

[MingusAmongUs]

I've lived in:
Upper E Side (3rd ave + 93, girlfriend's place, didn't like the hood, too homogenous and frat-party ish)
E. Village (13 btw 1+2, 5th St btw 2nd + 3rd)
W. Village (8th st btw 5+6, 10th btw 5+6)
All of these are: too small, too expensive, and filthy dirty

Then I moved into Brooklyn, and it seems I was always on the cutting edge as far as neighborhoods go -- as soon as I moved there, or shortly thereafter, they turned into the place to be...

North side of Williamsburg (N9 btw Bedford and Driggs)
Red Hook (Van Brunt)
Boerum Hill (Dean and Bond)

Ditto Jason Sypher on the beautiful Polish girls in Greenpoint. I used to go for an egg sandwich at the same place every morning, just to see the girl behind the counter... oh man I have never before or since seen girls so pretty.

Red Hook is apparently the hippest place in town now but when I lived there it was a common occurrence to see cars on fire. And kids popping wheelies down Van Brunt St on stolen motorcycles.

I reallly loved Boerum Hill. So much character. I actually knew my neighbors and had nice conversations with them. Nowhere else in the city have I ever experienced that. You could also furnish your entire apartment with stuff people leave out on the sidewalk. I understand it's VERY gentrified now. We had a HUGE place there for very cheap. Lived there 5 years.

I'll always be a Brooklyn Boy but I know people that lived there after living in Queens and jersey and other places and they all liked Bklyn much better. It just has a lot of character and it's easy to get in and out of the city, and you get a lot of space for the money. I 2nd the suggestions for Boerum Hill, Cobble Hill, Carroll Gardens, Fort Greene and that general area.

And, you'll pay a premium but by miles and miles the easiest and hassle-free way to go about getting a place is through a realtor in the neighborhood. Forget about listings in the paper, or the ones where you pay $50 and get a new set of listings every few weeks. They were all dead ends for me. Just go in, tell them you're able to spend $200 less than you actually are and you'll end up with something to match your budget and needs. The finder's fee is usually 10-15% of 1 year's rent. But this may not apply if you're looking for a share.

[brianh]

Thanks for all the input. This should make things a bit easier.

Does anyone have experience with living in New Jersey?

[robobass]

Have you heard of Dumbo? North Brooklyn waterfront area (down under the Manhattan bridge overpass). It was a haven for artists seeking lofts in the '90s but unable to pay Manhattan rents. Now it's gone really upscale, but you might find an affordable roomate situation. Of all the places I lived in NY in the '90s (Washington Heights, Astoria, Village, Boerum Hill, Fort Green, Brooklyn Heights) it was my favorite and the most practical (good train access, and available street parking). A lot of the buildings are zoned commercial, though. That means you aren't allowed to live there. That means you have to maintain a spartan existence, and keep the place looking "work only". Not really a problem for young musicians on a budget. I'm 44 now, and have still yet to buy my first couch!
Robobass

[Ed Fuqua]

I got chased out of Park Slope by all the rent bumps and we DEFINITELY couldn't afford to buy there, by the time we got enough of a nut together.

We ended up in Jackson Heights (although I'm not sure we could afford to buy here now). Sure there may be deals out there, but by and large most great Brooklyn neighborhoods are gonna be close to that $1000 a month for a room mate situation. Jackson Heights, Astoria, Sunnyside you can still get a one bedroom for $1000 a month and not have to to do the room mate shuffle. Or cop a 2 bedroom for $1400-1600 and get a room mate yer own damn self.

Red Hook is "safer" these days, but it's still pretty bereft of public transportation. Bay Ridge is affordable but that's a long ass way on the R train. Sunset Park can be pretty bereft of public transport, but a lot of musician slive out that way. Lot of players in Windsor Terrace/Kensington, but (to me) the more Kensington the neighborhood got, the less I felt like I lived in the city. In terms of neighborhood amenities (wine stores, restaurants, video rental joints, cafes/nightlife etc.) I think that the QUeens neighborhoods mentioned have a little more going on than Kensington or Ditmas Park.

Plus as things get more expensive, we're getting a lot of Brooklyn "refugees" into my neighborhood. So my projection is that in the next five or so years, the Heights is gonna get a lot more "Slopish"....

[brianh]

Hi guys,

Thanks again for the previous advice...it's realy helped a lot.

Right now, I'm trying to decide between a few places. I originally thought the upper west side would be too expensive, and while generally I think it is, I have found a couple places that would work.

Right now I'm looking at a nice (small but not too small) room at 107th and Columbus with a roomate for $800 including utilities. It seems like a good location and the living situation is cool. I'm 3 blocks from the train. Is this a good place to live as a musician or would I just be better off going to Brooklyn.

I also have a couple places in mind in Brooklyn. Both are a bit bigger, but not too much bigger. One is in Kensington ($900) and another in Windsor Terrace ($850); both do not include utilities. They're both nice and relatively easy to get into Manhattan.

I'm just trying to weigh my options, so anyone with some experience would really help me out. Also, I'm in town until Monday so if anyone is playing some cool gigs...let me know, I'd love to come check it out.

Thanks again,
Brian

[Jason Sypher]

I think that sounds pretty cool to me. Brooklyn is cool but I'm not that impressed with your finds compared to the UWS. Thing is, you're new here and it would be nice to have your "Manhattan Years" even if you end up somewhere else eventually. Upper West is cool and you will really have a New York experience. If the roomate is cool and stable...go for it.

[MingusAmongUs]

I second Jason's post here. But, also consider where you will be spending your time. If you have to commute down to the E. village or something, maybe UWS is not the best situation. But, those Bklyn spots are probably not any closer either. All things considered: price, sq footage, etc, I'd go for Manhattan and the "real NYC experience" it will provide (for better or worse).

[Ed Fuqua]

If you can find an affordable spot in Manhattan, go for it. You may be getting a few more square feet in Brooklyn, but there's nothing like the feeling of falling out your front door and having the world at your feet.

[bassist14]

Originally Posted by Ed Fuqua

there's nothing like the feeling of falling out your front door and having the world at your feet.

please forgive me for beeing offtopic, but that makes me want to buy an airplaneticket immediatly
(been in N.Y once for two half days in the 90´s, i can never forget this feeling)

[brianh]

thanks again guys, really a big help.

im actually going tommarow to finish a deal on a place on a place. it's actually really nice and cheap for manhattan standards. however, is it normal for a security deposit to be 3 months rent? seems like a lot.

[gkbass13]

ill probabaly be playing this game in a year or so. congrats on landing a place.

[jenkzy56]

first month, last month and one month security
sounds about right.
sometimes you can get lucky and just pay first and last month and no additional security fee.
congrats on your move and good fortune to you!

jenkzy