Backyard mechanics! I need some advice!

[stratovani]

I've got a 2001 Olds Alero, with a 3.1 V6, and I'm trying to put new spark plugs in. I've got the front 3 in, but I'm having a helluva time with the back 3. Specifically, I can't get the spark plug boots off. The front boots were difficult to pull off (I didn't pull on the wire, you never should do that!), but at least I had room and leverage, so they did come out, but those back ones! Ai-Yai-Yai! Anyone have any pointers?

The spark plugs should be a barrel of laughs, too, but I'll worry about that when I cross that bridge.

[Selta]

Only time I have ever had issues with a spark plug wire, I ended up breaking it and had to get a new one anyway, so I used a pair of gas pliers on it.

[Randall]

How about twist motion to free up the boot?

[DRafalske]

That has the two struts on the top front of the engine, connecting the engine to the radiator support right? Loosen those at the radiator side, unbolt from the engine and "fold" them forward. Now get a ratchet strap and attach it to something solid on the engine... should be a eyelet somewhere, but the intake manifold runner will work. Attach the other end to something solid in your garage, or another car if you're working in the driveway. Start tightening the strap. The engine will rotate forward about 6 inches. Makes changing the rear plugs a breeze.
BTW, this is the method specified in the shop manual.

D

[stratovani]

Originally Posted by Randall

How about twist motion to free up the boot?

Tried that already. I'm just afraid that I'll break the boot - then I'm really screwed! There ain't much room back there!

[Mike N]

The wires are 9 years old and you may as well replace them while you're there. To gain more access to the plugs, remove the coil pack / module assembly. There's two 10mm headed bolts up top, two 13mm nuts on the backside and three electrical plugs and it comes right off.

[stratovani]

Update: I got the job done yesterday afternoon. First, I went to Harbor Freight Tools and picked up a 15" long pair of vise-grips, then off to AutoZone for a new set of wires. I used the vise-grips and some leverage and got the spark plug boots off. They were real stubborn, and I wrecked them all but I didn't care, I was going to replace them anyways. The spark plugs weren't torqued in, which made them surprisingly easy to remove. So now the car runs great, like a car with 100K miles on it, which is pretty good considering it has 160k on it!

A few things I learned:
1. Do this with the engine warm (not hot). It loosens up some of the crud that builds up on the boots.
2. Throw an old blanket on the engine. You'll be leaning over to do this job.
2. Some anti-seize compound on the spark plug threads doesn't hurt.
4. Don't torque the plugs. Snug is good enough.

[Selta]

Plug should be about 18-23 ft-lbs (depending on metals, diameter and if they're flat/gasketed or not)If you don't have a torque wrench though, yeah, comfortably snug.

[Mike N]

Originally Posted by stratovani

A few things I learned:
1. Do this with the engine warm (not hot). It loosens up some of the crud that builds up on the boots.

You're better off doing them cold on the 3100, since it has aluminum heads. You don't want to remove plugs from a warm cylinder head, you may take the threads right out too.

Also, torquing plugs in an aluminum cylinder head is a must.

[pin_head_47]

Don't forget the dialectric grease between your new boots and plugs, it'll make your life easier the next time you have to do it.