It's bad enough here in south Oregon! Everybody surfs in a wet suit!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oHtif3ciX7w
I don't surf. But I will ask what do ppl look for in a wave? I see days with little rollers and ppl just flock to the surf spot. On other days I see big roller waves and the place is empty.
I asked a guy once "Don't you guys like the big waves - like on the old ABC Wide World of Sports?" where Mike Doyle is riding these monsters.
The guy got visibly upset, almost angry. I said I don't mean to be a wiseguy - I honestly don't know. No answer.