Electric laundry dryer won't work all of a sudden - can anyone help?
I have a GE dryer that just decided it doesn't want to work anymore. If there are any techs here, I would very much appreciate any help because I'd like to fix it myself to save the labor charge.
It didn't start at all.
Checked the breakers and none are tripped.
Unplugged the dryer and plugged it back in - started, but quit after a few seconds.
Did the same thing again and got the same result.
Do these things have relay switches, and could it be a bad one? The motor comes on, but doesn't stay on.
Any help would be very welcomed. I can fix almost anything if I know how, but I've not worked on laundry machines before. Thanks in advance.
Do you have breakers or fuses?
240 volt, 20 amp breaker. It hasn't tripped the circuit.
Something wrong with electrical circuit
It's in a wet room
You can't diagnose it
You try to fix it
You get electrocuted
I fixed my dryer after looking for videos on youtube
Not starting GE electric dryer
It might be the door switch, see if you can trigger the switch manually or if it is loose or sticky.
The way I've diagnosed my dryer in the past has been to trace the electrical signals from one end to the other, following the little wiring diagram that can be found inside the dryer. Obviously this means working on a live circuit while it's open, which I would discourage unless you're qualified.
Still - if the drum spins at all, a lot is working.
There may be an rpm-sensing switch inside the motor that switches between 'start' and 'run' - that could be bad.
IIRC - the only 220V part about a dryer is the heating coil - all the motor-control and timer stuff are 110. Still prudent to be cautious.
I've found excellent trouble-shooting advice and sourced many parts from www.RepairClinic.com
I haven't had a chance to watch the videos yet but thanks for the advice and links, guys.
Could possibly be an air flow obstruction or air flow sensor.
There are several protection devices in the dryer. The air flow sensor doesn't operate
until air flow has been acheived. So the motor has to be allowed to at least start up by
the logic in the dryer. Then if no air flow is detected, the motor control circuit will shut
If there is a momentary start button and relay logic, this function is usually provided by
requiring that the start button is held long enough to allow the flow sensor to provide it's
normal output signal. Relay logic circuits use the start button to initially close the main
control relay. If all is well, a contact in the relay itself will maintain the control signal to
the relay. Any fault will interrupt the maintaining signal, and the relay will drop out. So
another possibility is that a bad contact or connection is opening because of vibration.
Thermal protection sensors normally take many many seconds to react, so it's likely not
shutting off due to overheating, but if the air flow is obstructed, it would normally shut
down eventually as it overheated.
First thing to check, make sure the air outlet is clear all the way to the outside vent.
Closely followed by fdeck's:
I'm a DIYholic, and most of the things/repairs/experiments I did as a kid/teen with wall voltage related equipment (220V back then), were so moronic in hindsight, I'm lucky to have all the nerves in my fingers and arms still working.
I like to think I'm a bit wiser now ;).
It's very rare to die from a low to medium voltage electric shock, but the other injuries it almost always causes usually are life-long pains in the behind.
A misfortunate zap through the wrong nerve-path, and You'll have a limp finger for the rest of your life.
what I meant to say was:
Check the battery.
I understand the danger in working on "hot" circuits and I assure you I'm a big boy who can do this sort of thing without getting myself electrocuted, so don't worry about me jamming my hand into some metal housing where one finger touches a wire and another part of my hand grounds out to said sheet metal housing. I actually work with a lot of single phase "wall voltage" stuff on a regular basis - and I have a good multimeter to make sure of what I'm doing. Also, there's no standing water in my washroom, because there's no leak, so I won't be grounded by a puddle of water.
Thank you for the concern, though. I feel like you guys might miss me if I won a Darwin Award...
EDIT: I misread T-Bird's post. My hand nerves have been through some shocks and some slices, but I think all is well - except for my right pinky - so I take special care of my hands in these situations nowadays. Once again, I do appreciate your concern and I didn't mean to come off snarky.
Anyway - yeah - vane in the airflow attached to microswitch. Hot, humid, linty environment - not a happy place for electromechanical components.
Easy to check proper operation and continuity across the switch even with the power off...
In my limited experience, it's always the thermocouple.
Clean out the lint filter,and check the impeller for excess lint.Both will cause the overtemp circuit to kick in. or take the heat unit to any appliance repair shop and have them put a meter on it.
I have a GE dryer. Nothing fancy. It stopped working on me. I did vacuum out the duct from the dryer lint screen to the back of the machine. There was a lot of lint that accumulated with a couple of years but that didn't resolve the issue.
It turned out to be the start switch. It was broken internally. I got a new one, unplugged the dryer, removed the upper control panel, removed the old switch, put in the new one, put the panel back on, put the switch back on, plugged it back in, and that was it.
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