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09-24-2011, 10:58 AM
|  | Friends, Romans, Bass Players... | | Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Spencer, MA, USA | | | Hey, car repair experts!
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Last week my son bought his first car - a 1994 Lincoln Continental. He's very proud of it, like we all were with our first cars, but it comes with a problem which seems to be common with these cars - a leaking rear suspension. The air bag seems to pump up OK, but when the car sits for a while the rear end bottoms out. After doing a bit of research online I think he probably has a leak in the air bag. My question is, do they make air bag repair kits, maybe something with a patch and some kind of silicone sealant? Or, if it s a small enough leak, will shooting some silicone plug it up?
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Hofner Group #34, Canadian Club #137, Le Club des Francophones No. 12, Straight-Forward Bassist club #4, Squier Affinity Club #11, 50+ Club #16. Go in, lay it down, and get out.
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09-24-2011, 11:20 AM
|  | Registered User | | | | The replacement part itself runs in the 80 dollar range from my best recollection, not installed. When I was in the repair service industry the best solution, at the time, was a conversion kit. They are, admittedly, expensive to buy ( totally off the top of my dome guess .. and this was in the early 90's ) 800 bones plus installation. That removed all issues ( like turning the key off at a gas station to fill and the entire suspension squats to the ground. My best friends moms Lincoln did that to us on a double date
Given the psi involved and the fact that it is meant to absorb road shock at freeway speeds a silicone solution seems impossible. | 
09-24-2011, 11:23 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colorado | | | Don't mickey-mouse it, replace the bag. Search rockauto.com for the parts. Probably not repairable, but not that expensive to replace.
Also - get a repair manual before attempting any repair involving springs or suspension.
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09-24-2011, 11:28 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: New York | | | The Continental is nothing more than a glorified Taurus. If you really wanted to you could replace the air bag struts with regular spring struts from a Taurus. | 
09-24-2011, 03:20 PM
|  | Friends, Romans, Bass Players... | | Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Spencer, MA, USA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike N The Continental is nothing more than a glorified Taurus. If you really wanted to you could replace the air bag struts with regular spring struts from a Taurus. | I think that's the route we'll eventually take. I was hoping there would be a "quick fix" but I guess there isn't. I'd do it myself but after having looked at it we're better off taking it to a shop. The three top bolts that hold the strut to the body are almost completely inaccessible underneath the back sill. 
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Hofner Group #34, Canadian Club #137, Le Club des Francophones No. 12, Straight-Forward Bassist club #4, Squier Affinity Club #11, 50+ Club #16. Go in, lay it down, and get out.
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09-24-2011, 03:32 PM
| | Banned | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: California | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike N The Continental is nothing more than a glorified Taurus. If you really wanted to you could replace the air bag struts with regular spring struts from a Taurus. | taurus is unibody front wheel drive, continental is body on frame rear wheel drive? | 
09-24-2011, 03:40 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Tampa, Florida | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by stratovani
I think that's the route we'll eventually take. I was hoping there would be a "quick fix" but I guess there isn't. I'd do it myself but after having looked at it we're better off taking it to a shop. The three top bolts that hold the strut to the body are almost completely inaccessible underneath the back sill.  | Have you tried popping the trunk and looking in there for the inaccessible bolts? Even maybe underneath the rear seats. Replacing an air strut is a lot safer and easier then a mcphearson strut assembly. | 
09-24-2011, 03:47 PM
|  | Friends, Romans, Bass Players... | | Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Spencer, MA, USA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Von Felgenhauer Have you tried popping the trunk and looking in there for the inaccessible bolts? Even maybe underneath the rear seats. Replacing an air strut is a lot safer and easier then a mcphearson strut assembly. | I guess I didn't word it right. The air strut is bolted to the body under the rear window sill. I have access to one bolt, and I can touch one other with my finger, but there's one last bolt way in the back which I can't reach.
__________________
Hofner Group #34, Canadian Club #137, Le Club des Francophones No. 12, Straight-Forward Bassist club #4, Squier Affinity Club #11, 50+ Club #16. Go in, lay it down, and get out.
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09-24-2011, 04:03 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colorado | | Quote:
Originally Posted by stratovani I guess I didn't word it right. The air strut is bolted to the body under the rear window sill. I have access to one bolt, and I can touch one other with my finger, but there's one last bolt way in the back which I can't reach. | Bummer. The thing is - someone put it in, someone else can take it out. If you can get a shop manual, you can probably find out how. Of course, you still may decide that it's not something you want to tackle...I find myself in that position every now and then.
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09-24-2011, 04:10 PM
|  | Friends, Romans, Bass Players... | | Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Spencer, MA, USA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilgrim Bummer. The thing is - someone put it in, someone else can take it out. If you can get a shop manual, you can probably find out how. Of course, you still may decide that it's not something you want to tackle...I find myself in that position every now and then. | Last year I replaced the front struts on my 2001 Olds Alero. It wasn't a difficult job since everything was accessible. But my son's Continental? Ai-yai-yai! It might be worth paying for the labor just to have a pro deal with it! 
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Hofner Group #34, Canadian Club #137, Le Club des Francophones No. 12, Straight-Forward Bassist club #4, Squier Affinity Club #11, 50+ Club #16. Go in, lay it down, and get out.
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09-24-2011, 04:11 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: N.H. | | | First car, a 94 Lincoln? Wow what a brave soul. With all the bells & whistles that can
& will go wrong it will be a nickel & dime machine for sure. My buddy bought a used Lincoln and learnt the hard way.
Good Luck. | 
09-24-2011, 04:12 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colorado | | | That's one of the reasons I might take the same track.
I also have decided that the next time I need to replace shocks in a Mcpherson strut suspension, I'll leave my spring compressors under the workbench, take out the struts fully assembled, and take them to a shop with a commercial spring compressor.
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"...awesome as a monkey wearing a tuxedo made of bacon, riding on a unicorn!'"
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09-24-2011, 04:29 PM
|  | Friends, Romans, Bass Players... | | Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Spencer, MA, USA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by MrLenny1 First car, a 94 Lincoln? Wow what a brave soul. With all the bells & whistles that can
& will go wrong it will be a nickel & dime machine for sure. My buddy bought a used Lincoln and learnt the hard way.
Good Luck. | It's in surprisingly good shape. It's got 83K on the odo, good rubber on the tires, new battery, brakes well, clean engine and interior, no rust anywhere, runs like a charm. It's also got a clean title, so I think for $2000 he got a good deal.
__________________
Hofner Group #34, Canadian Club #137, Le Club des Francophones No. 12, Straight-Forward Bassist club #4, Squier Affinity Club #11, 50+ Club #16. Go in, lay it down, and get out.
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09-24-2011, 05:28 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colorado | | | As long as he can keep up with the little problems that will show up in electronics and accessories, the drivetrain ought to be solid.
Make sure to do a power-flush on that transmission, now and every 30-50K miles. That's the path to auto tranny longevity.
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"...awesome as a monkey wearing a tuxedo made of bacon, riding on a unicorn!'"
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09-24-2011, 05:42 PM
|  | Friends, Romans, Bass Players... | | Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Spencer, MA, USA | | Plus I forgot to mention that my son Joe is 6'4", 300lbs, so he's very happy with the leg room in the Lincoln! 
__________________
Hofner Group #34, Canadian Club #137, Le Club des Francophones No. 12, Straight-Forward Bassist club #4, Squier Affinity Club #11, 50+ Club #16. Go in, lay it down, and get out.
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09-24-2011, 05:47 PM
| | Banned | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: California | | | HALT RIGHT THERE!!!! Tranny flushes are fickle things. I know, I am a manager at a lube shop. Turn away tranny flushes all the time.
Before you even think about flushing it, drop the pan and look at the magnet closely. Replace the filter and break open the old one and look for chunks.
Fill er back up and drive it for a couple thousand miles, make sure it doesn't start slipping or shifting hard. If alls well, have them flush it with about 8 quarts, and then change the filter again right after the flush.
Just this week, guy with a 2002 Tahoe wanted a tranny flush. Had 240k freeway miles... He said he had it done at 50k, but not since and they didn't change the filter.
Now, at this point, all the little clutches and things in this tranny are worn out completely. The only reason the tranny works is the grittiness of the fluid.
I tell him i'd rather not mess with it, just drive it till it goes out. New fluid is to slick and it probably won't go into gear.
Tells me im full of it, has me flush it and change the filter.
Ran 8 quarts through it, dropped the pan which was really not to dirty but the filter was real heavy. Swapped the filter, bolted her back up and filled it.
Go through the gears, seems to be fine. Good, i'm happy for him.
Get a call an hour later, reverse went out and drive won't shift out of third.
Be careful. | 
09-24-2011, 06:02 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: New York | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Time Monkey taurus is unibody front wheel drive, continental is body on frame rear wheel drive? | Nope. The Town Car is full frame, rear wheel drive.... based on the Crown Vic chassis.
The Continental is a unibody wrong wheel drive Taurus. | 
09-24-2011, 06:06 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: New York | | Quote:
Originally Posted by stratovani I think that's the route we'll eventually take. I was hoping there would be a "quick fix" but I guess there isn't. I'd do it myself but after having looked at it we're better off taking it to a shop. The three top bolts that hold the strut to the body are almost completely inaccessible underneath the back sill.  |
If the rear seat is the pass through design like a Taurus, remove the seat bottom by pulling up on it, pop the seat backs down and remove the four 13mm headed bolts.... two towards the top and two near the bottom and the seat back lifts right out. Pick up the sill tray and the nuts are right there. Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes to access the upper strut nuts.
If it's not a pass through seat it should still come out easily..... remove the seat bottom the same way and then there should only be two bolts holding the seat back in.
Last edited by Mike N : 09-24-2011 at 06:09 PM.
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09-24-2011, 06:31 PM
| | Banned | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: California | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike N Nope. The Town Car is full frame, rear wheel drive.... based on the Crown Vic chassis.
The Continental is a unibody wrong wheel drive Taurus. | aaah. got the conti and tc mixed up. | 
09-24-2011, 06:40 PM
|  | Friends, Romans, Bass Players... | | Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Spencer, MA, USA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike N If the rear seat is the pass through design like a Taurus, remove the seat bottom by pulling up on it, pop the seat backs down and remove the four 13mm headed bolts.... two towards the top and two near the bottom and the seat back lifts right out. Pick up the sill tray and the nuts are right there. Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes to access the upper strut nuts.
If it's not a pass through seat it should still come out easily..... remove the seat bottom the same way and then there should only be two bolts holding the seat back in. | Well if that 's the case then maybe we'll give it a shot. I'll check it out and report back. Thanks, Mike! Appreciate the help! 
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Hofner Group #34, Canadian Club #137, Le Club des Francophones No. 12, Straight-Forward Bassist club #4, Squier Affinity Club #11, 50+ Club #16. Go in, lay it down, and get out.
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