modern cars are rubbish?

[Icey101]

i've got a late model subaru, its had idle issues for the last 6months, its out of warranty. If i push the clutch in as i roll up to the lights in gear and let the thing coast, the idle goes up and down like some cycle between 800 to 1500 rpm. When i roll up and stop, the idle settles back down. I did a bit of research and found that the ECU needs reseting. So you pull the battery lead off for 15 min, then back on and let it idle for 15min etc. This in theory resets the ECU. Why the hell do you need to do this? i have no idea but it seemed to work. I wonder how many people have shelled out money to take their cars back to the factory to get fixed when this has happened. To me its the modern car rip off where technology creates rubbish that needs to be specially tuned and fixed by the authorised mechanic. Give me a carb, points and the good old days anytime

[two fingers]

Man, I'm sorry you had a problem. But to the rest of the ENTIRE PLANET Subaru cars are known to be some of the most reliable (almost bullet proof) forms of transportation available. I think your standards are a bit high. There is no perfect science. The advances electronics that have IMPROVED cars are too many to list. Yes, I love classic cars as much as the next guy. But if a modern era Subaru had rolled off the line in 1965, it would have quickly become the best selling car ever. Nearly EVERY aspect of cars have improved by some sort of electronic advancement.

[DerHoggz]

Originally Posted by Icey101

i've got a late model subaru, its had idle issues for the last 6months, its out of warranty. If i push the clutch in as i roll up to the lights in gear and let the thing coast, the idle goes up and down like some cycle between 800 to 1500 rpm. When i roll up and stop, the idle settles back down. I did a bit of research and found that the ECU needs reseting. So you pull the battery lead off for 15 min, then back on and let it idle for 15min etc. This in theory resets the ECU. Why the hell do you need to do this? i have no idea but it seemed to work. I wonder how many people have shelled out money to take their cars back to the factory to get fixed when this has happened. To me its the modern car rip off where technology creates rubbish that needs to be specially tuned and fixed by the authorised mechanic. Give me a carb, points and the good old days anytime

Seems like an easy fix, why are complaining?

[elgecko]

Most computers needs a reboot every now and again.

[Jazz Ad]

Cars are cheaper, better on gas, faster, better equiped, safer and more reliable than ever.
Why are you complaining again?

If you think older cars were better built, you have short memory. You don't remember cars refusing to run in the morning, flat tires to fix all the time or leaky oil tank.

[1958Bassman]

Originally Posted by Icey101

i've got a late model subaru, its had idle issues for the last 6months, its out of warranty. If i push the clutch in as i roll up to the lights in gear and let the thing coast, the idle goes up and down like some cycle between 800 to 1500 rpm. When i roll up and stop, the idle settles back down. I did a bit of research and found that the ECU needs reseting. So you pull the battery lead off for 15 min, then back on and let it idle for 15min etc. This in theory resets the ECU. Why the hell do you need to do this? i have no idea but it seemed to work. I wonder how many people have shelled out money to take their cars back to the factory to get fixed when this has happened. To me its the modern car rip off where technology creates rubbish that needs to be specially tuned and fixed by the authorised mechanic. Give me a carb, points and the good old days anytime

Go to a major auto parts store and have it scanned. Guessing will get you absolutely nowhere.

What you did may have cleared the stored codes but it didn't "reboot" the ECM. That requires a diagnostic computer and the correct command(s).

Your version of the EPA tells car manufacturers what the gas will contain and Congress mandates fuel economy. A carb won't hit the numbers and they can't be set to handle the BS gas formulations they force on us. There's so much going on with the computer that a carb can't possibly do- look into this, sometime.

[darius8]

Which Subaru model do you have? I have a 2013 Forester. Here's some links that may enlighten you about quick fixes and repairs just in case.

for Outbacks
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/

for Foresters
http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/

for Legacys
http://www.legacygt.com/forums/

for mostly Imprezas
http://www.nasioc.com/
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/

[hbarcat]

I'm as fond of classic "carbed" cars as anyone but they are ancient technology and absolutely incapable of usefully working in today's high performance cars. Computer controlled fuel and spark easily makes modern engines produce twice the power, using half the fuel and eliminating more than 99% of pollutants.

Additionally, on board diagnostics (OBD) can usually pinpoint the source of any problem just by plugging a handheld scanner into the wiring harness.

And a mechanical distributor with points and vacuum advance? Screw that.

[fdeck]

My local Auto Zone will scan my car, tell me the diagnosis, give me advice on whether I can fix it myself or not, and sell me the parts if needed.

[Munjibunga]

I've been very happy with all the Japanese cars I've owned (Toyota, Honda, Lexus), maybe a dozen of them. I think my ex-Sequoia and ex-Venza were built in the U.S., but they still didn't suck. Now the couple of Mercedes I owned sucked more, but still not too bad. I haven't owned an American car since 1971. That Vega really soured me.

[Gopherbassist]

Originally Posted by Munjibunga

I've been very happy with all the Japanese cars I've owned (Toyota, Honda, Lexus), maybe a dozen of them. I think my ex-Sequoia and ex-Venza were built in the U.S., but they still didn't suck. Now the couple of Mercedes I owned sucked more, but still not too bad. I haven't owned an American car since 1971. That Vega really soured me.

What year/model was the Honda? I need a new car, and my '87 Accord was pretty much unstoppable until user error took it off the road. I'm thinking about getting another, but I'm always worried about reliability. What was your experience, in more detail? If you don't mind.

[Mike N]

Originally Posted by fdeck

My local Auto Zone will scan my car, tell me the diagnosis, give me advice on whether I can fix it myself or not, and sell me the parts if needed.

I wouldn't put any faith in their "diagnosis." Those guys have enough trouble looking up parts let alone interpreting what a code reader is telling them. I can't begin to tell you the number of cars I've had in the shop that have been filled full of shiny new Vato Zone parts and the check engine light was still on. Vato zone subscribes to the "pull code, install part" method of diagnosis.

Naturally, when I want to charge for proper diagnosis I'm the crook.

[ZeroSymbolic]

92' Lincoln Mark VII mechanically perfect.

[Pilgrim]

I don't see the problem. The OP knows the car has a computer, and he reset it with no cost.

Cars last longer, have more power per cubic inch, run cleaner, are quieter and safer than they have ever been. Points and condenser are a complete pain in the ass, and I've changed many of them. They last only a few thousand miles and are prone to failure. Modern ignition systems are VASTLY SUPERIOR.

There's no reason to complain.

[fdeck]

Originally Posted by Mike N

I wouldn't put any faith in their "diagnosis." Those guys have enough trouble looking up parts let alone interpreting what a code reader is telling them. I can't begin to tell you the number of cars I've had in the shop that have been filled full of shiny new Vato Zone parts and the check engine light was still on. Vato zone subscribes to the "pull code, install part" method of diagnosis.

Naturally, when I want to charge for proper diagnosis I'm the crook.

I'm always cautious. This guy has generally been on the money about what's wrong with my cars. He's usually to be found in the parking lot going from car to car. I always supplement his theory with my own research, and since I rarely do my own repairs any more, the car typically ends up at the mechanic's anyway.

On one occasion, his diagnosis led me to a service bulletin that got me an out-of-warranty repair for free at the dealer's.

[Munjibunga]

Originally Posted by Gopherbassist

What year/model was the Honda? I need a new car, and my '87 Accord was pretty much unstoppable until user error took it off the road. I'm thinking about getting another, but I'm always worried about reliability. What was your experience, in more detail? If you don't mind.

'84 Accord LX, '86 Prelude, '87 Accord EX. No problems with any of them. Between Honda and Toyota, you won't find many more reliable cars.

[jmattbassplaya]

Originally Posted by Munjibunga

'84 Accord LX, '86 Prelude, '87 Accord EX. No problems with any of them. Between Honda and Toyota, you won't find many more reliable cars.

I have an '89 Toyota Supra. The thing has lasted forever, but it has an electrical issue that makes the headlights prone to turn off at random (no one has been able to find the exact issue for why this happens in a decade of trying), as well as several other mechanical issues. It's reliable in the sense that it runs, but I wouldn't consider it a reliably safe car, either.

[two fingers]

Originally Posted by jmattbassplaya

I have an '89 Toyota Supra. The thing has lasted forever, but it has an electrical issue that makes the headlights prone to turn off at random (no one has been able to find the exact issue for why this happens in a decade of trying), as well as several other mechanical issues. It's reliable in the sense that it runs, but I wouldn't consider it a reliably safe car, either.

Of course you do realize you could hotwire those things right to the battery and wire a switch to your dash to turn them on and off, right? That would completely bypass whatever is causing them to short out. Before I spent a decade trying to figure out the problem, I would skip the problem and come up with a solution.

[jmattbassplaya]

Originally Posted by two fingers

Of course you do realize you could hotwire those things right to the battery and wire a switch to your dash to turn them on and off, right? That would completely bypass whatever is causing them to short out. Before I spent a decade trying to figure out the problem, I would skip the problem and come up with a solution.

Sure, but I haven't driven the car since I turned 17, either

[lmfreeman9]

Originally Posted by Jazz Ad

Cars are cheaper, better on gas, faster, better equiped, safer and more reliable than ever.
Why are you complaining again?

If you think older cars were better built, you have short memory. You don't remember cars refusing to run in the morning, flat tires to fix all the time or leaky oil tank.

+1. Today's cars ride better, rust less, are more reliable, faster and more efficient than ever. They cost more but they last longer-150,000 miles and beyond today is normal.