Surfing looks fun . . . and dangerous.

[hbarcat]

Great pictures of Australian surfing.

I wish we had waves like this on the Great Lakes.
But it's probaby for the best as I'd be likely to kill myself doing this. The wave pounded over surfer Kerby Brown and tore his shoulder muscle.






More pictures and story:
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/worl...tell-tale.html



To those who surf: is this as dangerous as it appears or is made out to be in this article?

[GregC]

I've seen crazy surfing pics before, but that wave is insane.

[baba]

The depth front to back of that wave is insane!

[MakiSupaStar]

Oh yeah. Without looking at the article, I think this is The Box. I believe that wave is in Western Australia, outside of Perth. If I'm not mistaken, it's also very sharky in those waters. Very heavy wave. Notice how the flat in front of the wave is sucking so hard that it's below sea-level? Very shallow and very dangerous. Crazy stuff. Western Australia is on my list of places to hit for surf trips. No. I will not surf this wave. Too crazy. Western Australia is a lot less crowded than the gold coast however.

Here's a picture of Teahoopu in Tahiti. When waves suck like this, that means that it's shallow. VERY shallow. Teahoopu is in about 3 feet of water.

Here's a still.


Here's the video.
http://www.surfline.com/video/video_...id=2366&mv=ncl

Here's another picture of the same wave on a bigger day.



And yet another. {sorry about the size didn't have time to shrink it down}

[Passinwind]

Wicked! Shallow reefs are way too hairy for this geezer.

I get all skeered on anything much over head-high, but I'm only a windsurfer, so I don't really count in actual surfing discussions anyway.

A little Maui action for your entertainment:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8yX_uVQ9OKA

One of my best friends used to live about a mile from Jaws, but I never managed to get over there when it was firing. I'd love to check it out though -- from the beach.

[TallLankyBastyd]

Originally Posted by baba

The depth front to back of that wave is insane!

Uhhh... dude...

...just where exactly IS "the back"?!?

Freaking awesome wave!!

[iamlowsound]

Originally Posted by TallLankyBastyd

Uhhh... dude...

...just where exactly IS "the back"?!?

Freaking awesome wave!!

It is more like a wall of water than a wave. Wasn't there a video kicking around a year or two ago of a guy catching a 60ft wave? I seem to remember that being some sort of record.

lowsound

[MakiSupaStar]

Originally Posted by iamlowsound

It is more like a wall of water than a wave. Wasn't there a video kicking around a year or two ago of a guy catching a 60ft wave? I seem to remember that being some sort of record.

lowsound

Yep. The XXXL Contest is a year long contest for footage of the largest wave ever ridden. The rider gets 50k, IIRC.

[XtreO]

Is shallow water bad?

[MakiSupaStar]

Only when you fall and the bottom is razor sharp reef. Even on sand, a 40 foot wave is going squash you. This is how necks get broken, joints get hyper-extended, and people get knocked unconscious underwater.

However, deep water has it's own set backs like suddenly finding yourself 20 feet underwater and trying to get up to the surface in time to catch a breath before the next 20 foot wave comes rolling through. Some of the tow in guys ride with a mini O2 tube strapped to their back for that specific reason.

[XtreO]

So when you surf you would want... Medium depth water?

[MakiSupaStar]

Originally Posted by XtreO

So when you surf you would want... Medium depth water?

No. When you surf you want to surf better waves. A good wave breaking over shallow water isn't necessarily bad. A good wave is a good wave because you can ride it better, thus you fall less. These waves, are at the extremes of the sport. I will never attempt them, simply because I'd rather surf a long workable wave with a few hollow sections that a crazy death drop on a giant monster. Although, I would surf Jaws in Maui if I could be part of a Tow-In crew. I guess the bottom line is that the bottom only matters when you're laying on it.

[Passinwind]

Originally Posted by MakiSupaStar

I guess the bottom line is that the bottom only matters when you're laying on it.

Must...show...restraint.

But yeah, I will make exceptions for really good conditions myself. Howevah, the first time I charged a big failed jump on a Maui wave face and ended up standing up on completely dry reef about 1/3 of a mile out, I started reassessing my cockiness factor.

[hbarcat]

I thought I'd post another picture from the story. This was taken just before the OP pic.

[hbarcat]

Originally Posted by MakiSupaStar

However, deep water has it's own set backs like suddenly finding yourself 20 feet underwater and trying to get up to the surface in time to catch a breath before the next 20 foot wave comes rolling through. Some of the tow in guys ride with a mini O2 tube strapped to their back for that specific reason.

Are those oxygen tanks actually used much out of necessity?

[Lucky Strike]

Originally Posted by hbarcat

Now you know what a terd goes through in its final moments.

[tbrannon]

Originally Posted by MakiSupaStar

Western Australia is on my list of places to hit for surf trips. No. I will not surf this wave. Too crazy. Western Australia is a lot less crowded than the gold coast however.

Perth is a cool city- it's a heck of a long ways out there though. It's a good 7 hr flight to get from Sydney to Perth IIRC.

Maki- you have any good stories from the Wedge? I used to head down there and watch when it was pumping...

[GeneralElectric]

I'm going all MSPaint on this.

[GeneralElectric]

[Ezbass]

OMG

Awesome photos. I always wanted to learn to surf, but never got round to it. Wearing specs doesn't help either. Tried windsurfing for a few years, but conditions were always cr@p so progress was slow. Took up rock climbing and snowboarding instead.