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  #1  
Old 07-20-2010, 08:39 PM
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: central new jersey
3pdt and board on mouser (first pedal build)

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Hello,
i am currently in the process of ordering all of the parts to build a GGG BMP (big muff pi) pedal.
I have all of the parts i need except the 3pdt switch and board to build on. FOr the board i just want something like
http://www.futurlec.com/ProtoBoards.shtml
the experimenters board towards the bottom of the page.
For the 3pdt switch i am looking at the choices and i cant figure out what the difference is between an on-on and an on-off, etc. If someone could help me find these two parts i would be very grateful.
In addition i have read that by changing the input and output caps you can make the pedal more tuned for bass. I am assuming that the input and output caps are c1 and c19 respectively.
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/...t/view/108/26/
see cite for schematic
can anyone give me lets say 4 other cap values that i can buy and mess around with to make this more suited for bass?

thank you in advance for your help
  #2  
Old 07-20-2010, 08:47 PM
Taylor Livingston's Avatar
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That board is more commonly called perf board, and that type is pad-per-hole. I think they have it at Mouser, though I've never bought it from them.

Mouser does not stock the kind of 3PDT switch commonly used to build pedals. They do have some stompable DPDTs, which can be used if you build your pedal with RG Keen's "Millenium Bypass". But these DPDTs are mostly expensive, only have solder pins, or other inconveniences for this purpose. I would buy the stomp switch from somebody like Pedal Parts Plus, or some guys on diystompboxes.com sell them as well.

C13 is the output cap. I've used anything up to 4.7uf for coupling caps, though I don't think such a high value is usually a good idea. Sometimes a bigger input cap sends too much bass into the circuit, and you wind up with a farty distortion rather than deep lows you were aiming for.

And I'll suggest again diystompboxes.com. If you read through their Wiki, FAQ, and then read through RG's geofex.com, you'll have most of your questions answered without ever having to ask them. TB is cool, but a DIY-specific forum will teach you a lot more about building, faster.
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Last edited by Taylor Livingston : 07-20-2010 at 09:14 PM.
  #3  
Old 07-20-2010, 08:48 PM
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do yourself a favor and order the printed pcb from GGG for the big muff, it will leave a lot less room for error.

it's cheap and it worked great when i built mine
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  #4  
Old 07-20-2010, 08:55 PM
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I don't think Mouser carries the type of 3PDT foot switches used in pedals. Try www.smallbearelec.com instead. Here's a proto board from Mouser: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...ZjXsb4nPBAw%3d
For cap values, a general rule of thumb for bass modding is to pick a value 10 x greater than the "regular guitar" version. If you feel like experimenting, get some that are like 5 x and 20 x the stock value.
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  #5  
Old 07-20-2010, 09:06 PM
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I build my pedals on this:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...2fYS5j5g%3d%3d

It's very, very high quality stuff. Much better than you can get at Smallbear and the like.

I'd recomend Pedalpartsplus for the 3PDT. Buy the Cliff brand. They're a bit better than New Sensor. Pedalpartsplus is great for small things because they will send small orders out for only a couple bucks shipping.
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  #6  
Old 07-20-2010, 09:12 PM
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: central new jersey
^ yes thank you for the board. much appreciated, exactly what i wanted.
I will buy a 3pdt switch from small bear i think, but in the meantime for testing purposes can i just get a toggle switch? Or just wire it to always on?
Thank you taylor for the recommendations, and i will check out those cites to learn as much as i can. I think i will but maybe 4 extra caps and see what kind of sounds i can get out of those. By the way should c13 and c1 be the same value?
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