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  #1  
Old 10-29-2008, 07:41 PM
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Bass electronics-powering pedal-box thing

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I'm not quite sure where to put this, becuase it's half bass electronics and half doing with pedal board and the like.

Basically, I have in mind a floor-mounted box that I would use to power my bass with. the Schecter is either a freak of nature, or I'm using half-dead batteries, because it runs out after a couple weeks or so. Since I've tried rechargeable 9-volt (actually 8.4 volt) batteries, and it's a pain getting into my bass to swap them out, I was wondering if I could use a small project box and make a little thing that would run power into a stereo cable (1 channel for power, the other for signal) and have a stereo jack on the bass to take up the power.

Something I drew five minutes ago:


That's a 3PDT switch, so I can power an LED. I could use a bi-color LED, one color for on, one for off.

If theis belongs in the "Pickups and Electronics" section I understand, just made more sense to post it here, because it's a floor box.
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  #2  
Old 10-29-2008, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Thunderscreech View Post
I'm not quite sure where to put this, becuase it's half bass electronics and half doing with pedal board and the like.

Basically, I have in mind a floor-mounted box that I would use to power my bass with. the Schecter is either a freak of nature, or I'm using half-dead batteries, because it runs out after a couple weeks or so. Since I've tried rechargeable 9-volt (actually 8.4 volt) batteries, and it's a pain getting into my bass to swap them out, I was wondering if I could use a small project box and make a little thing that would run power into a stereo cable (1 channel for power, the other for signal) and have a stereo jack on the bass to take up the power.

Something I drew five minutes ago:


That's a 3PDT switch, so I can power an LED. I could use a bi-color LED, one color for on, one for off.

If theis belongs in the "Pickups and Electronics" section I understand, just made more sense to post it here, because it's a floor box.
Good idea, but I'm concerned about the bass jack itself. Generally these jacks only work with Mono cables. I'm not sure of the physics of this one, but I'd check that out.
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  #3  
Old 10-29-2008, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by B.C. View Post
Good idea, but I'm concerned about the bass jack itself. Generally these jacks only work with Mono cables. I'm not sure of the physics of this one, but I'd check that out.
I'd swap the bass jack out for one with stereo thingies, and run the one for power to the black wire and the one with ground to ground wire. I'd also put in a small switch to change from batter to jack power.
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Old 10-29-2008, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Thunderscreech View Post
I'd swap the bass jack out for one with stereo thingies, and run the one for power to the black wire and the one with ground to ground wire. I'd also put in a small switch to change from batter to jack power.
Cool, calling Nifty to see if this is plausable.
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  #5  
Old 10-29-2008, 08:59 PM
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Other issues that come to mind all of a sudden: The difference in amperage between the two (One spot is 1700, 9 volt is much less), and accidental voltage back feed into the bass.

I guess a diode or something to stop voltage backfeed, not sure about the other one...
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  #6  
Old 10-29-2008, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Thunderscreech View Post
Other issues that come to mind all of a sudden: The difference in amperage between the two (One spot is 1700, 9 volt is much less), and accidental voltage back feed into the bass.

I guess a diode or something to stop voltage backfeed, not sure about the other one...
Right, a Diode will solve that for you. A note on current, a one spot says it has 1.7A(1700mA, sorry the EE in me likes having proper units), but your bass will not draw that. Current isn't put out, but drawn, if that makes since, so there will not be 1.7A going to you bass, but whatever your basses pre-amp is drawing.
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  #7  
Old 10-29-2008, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by B.C. View Post
Right, a Diode will solve that for you. A note on current, a one spot says it has 1.7A(1700mA, sorry the EE in me likes having proper units), but your bass will not draw that. Current isn't put out, but drawn, if that makes since, so there will not be 1.7A going to you bass, but whatever your basses pre-amp is drawing.
Of course. After growing up and working with an electrician/HVAC tech (i.e. my dad) you think I would have figured it out by now...

and what sort of diode would that be? just a normal old 1N4xxx(1N4001, etc.) series?
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Old 10-29-2008, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Thunderscreech View Post
Of course. After growing up and working with an electrician/HVAC tech (i.e. my dad) you think I would have figured it out by now...

and what sort of diode would that be? just a normal old 1N4xxx(1N4001, etc.) series?
Lol we all have those moments, just look at my last EE exam

Yup, thats what I use(the 1N4...) and they work just fine.
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  #9  
Old 10-29-2008, 09:27 PM
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Interesting idea.

My question is, will the instrument cable be able to handle the power without melting? Will he power interfere with the output signal (and give you buzz or something?)?

There is a guy named FDeck on here who is a wiz with this stuff... you might want to look him up.

When you do this... Please photograph your progress and post it. Maybe start another thread. I would love to see how it works.

Good luck.
  #10  
Old 10-29-2008, 09:29 PM
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First up I'd suggest you work out if there's a fault in your bass. It could be that the switching of the battery implemented by the jack is not working as it should - leaving your bass permanently switched on.

Next thing I thought was you want to be careful not to put voltage where it shouldn't be as you insert the connector. A diode might work, but you don't want to just go and hang a diode across the output of your bass, for perhaps obvious reasons.

Nor do you want the jack socket to momentarily short two of it's terminals as you insert the connector or you may end up shorting the power supply every time. This depends entirely on the construction of the jack socket and would require some investigation.

So, thinking out loud here... with signal on the tip, 9V on the ring and ground on the sleeve chances are very low that 9V will ever come in contact with the signal terminal. However, chances are high the 9V will come in contact with the bass's ground (before that ground is connected to the 'system' ground) as the connector is inserted... but because a circuit hasn't formed yet (because there's no return path [ie; ground] to the power supply) then it might not be a problem.

It's possible, but you'll have to carefully observe exactly what happens as you insert/remove the jack plug.
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Last edited by niftydog : 10-29-2008 at 09:32 PM.
  #11  
Old 10-29-2008, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by GreggBummer View Post
My question is, will the instrument cable be able to handle the power without melting? Will he power interfere with the output signal (and give you buzz or something?)?
The cable will be fine - we're talking pretty low current. DC voltage is unlikely to cause a problem, but if there was something else present (like AC noise from the power supply) then it might interfere.
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  #12  
Old 10-29-2008, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by niftydog View Post
First up I'd suggest you work out if there's a fault in your bass. It could be that the switching of the battery implemented by the jack is not working as it should - leaving your bass permanently switched on.

Next thing I thought was you want to be careful not to put voltage where it shouldn't be as you insert the connector. A diode might work, but you don't want to just go and hang a diode across the output of your bass, for perhaps obvious reasons.

Nor do you want the jack socket to momentarily short two of it's terminals as you insert the connector or you may end up shorting the power supply every time. This depends entirely on the construction of the jack socket and would require some investigation.

So, thinking out loud here... with signal on the tip, 9V on the ring and ground on the sleeve chances are very low that 9V will ever come in contact with the signal terminal. However, chances are high the 9V will come in contact with the bass's ground (before that ground is connected to the 'system' ground) as the connector is inserted... but because a circuit hasn't formed yet (because there's no return path [ie; ground]) then it might not be a problem.

It's possible, but you'll have to carefully observe exactly what happens as you insert/remove the jack plug.
Never thought of that. So is there a chance, atleast if I'm following you, to reverse polarity through the pre-amp(+9V to bass's ground)?
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  #13  
Old 10-29-2008, 09:49 PM
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I'm not gonna say no because you'll blame me when your bass explodes!

But, for current to flow there HAS to be a circuit - and before the ground of your power supply is connected to anything there is NO circuit through which it can make current flow.
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  #14  
Old 10-29-2008, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by niftydog View Post
I'm not gonna say no because you'll blame me when your bass explodes!

But, for current to flow there HAS to be a circuit - and before the ground of your power supply is connected to anything there is NO circuit through which it can make current flow.
Right, I got that, but I just wanted to be sure, ya know if there happened to be an +psuedo positive reference and ground acted like Vcc, ya know, like when the Hadron creates a blackhole that engulfs the eath.
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  #15  
Old 10-29-2008, 10:52 PM
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Of course, now is a great time for me to remember that the bass uses that jack switching thing with the sleeve and ground...

wait, okay, never mind. DPDT Push/pull pot will take care of all troubles. there!
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  #16  
Old 10-29-2008, 10:53 PM
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Of course, now is a great time for me to remember that the bass uses that jack switching thing with the sleeve and ground...

wait, okay, never mind. DPDT Push/pull pot will take care of all troubles. there!
Yup, thats why I said that a stereo cable may not work, but you have that taken care of
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  #17  
Old 11-02-2008, 06:24 PM
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Yup, thats why I said that a stereo cable may not work, but you have that taken care of
Would an XLR jack and cable be better suited for this? Side effect would be, unless with special adaptors, that I could never use the bass with normal (1/4 inch) jacks again.
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Last edited by Thunderscreech : 11-02-2008 at 06:31 PM.
  #18  
Old 11-02-2008, 06:31 PM
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  #19  
Old 11-02-2008, 06:38 PM
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im sure you're going to try the fun route anyway but there is clearly something wrong with your bass, i play a schecter studio 4, im careful to unplug every time i take it off, and my 2 batteries last for many months
  #20  
Old 11-02-2008, 06:46 PM
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im sure you're going to try the fun route anyway but there is clearly something wrong with your bass, i play a schecter studio 4, im careful to unplug every time i take it off, and my 2 batteries last for many months
A gizzard checkup is certainly necessary before unnecessary surgery.

It's probably my forgetfulness that causes battery drain. And you're right, I am having a good deal of fun with this.
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