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06-21-2008, 05:38 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Rochester, NY | | | Best DIY Blend?
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06-22-2008, 05:03 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Canberra, Australia | | | I don't know about "best" for everyone else, but for me it's the paralooper all the way.
__________________ niftydog "My feet itch." Mike Patton | 
06-30-2008, 09:07 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Rochester, NY | | | I'm going to go with the B. Blender. Mostly because I found everything I needed (schematic, pcb layout and most importantly for me a parts list).
I have a question about the types of capacitors.
(2) .1uF film box
(1) .1uF film chicklet
(5) 10 uF electro pol
I'm trying to get the parts from Small Bear, and I'm having trouble distinguishing the right ones to buy.
Panasonic Low Voltage Poly Film?
Xicon High Voltage Poly Film?
Mallory 150 Series Poly Film?
Sprague 715 Series Orange Drop?
Sprague 716 Series Orange Drop?
Silver Mica?
Electrolytic?
Can someone point me in the right direction?
Also what is the size code for Boss style power supplies?
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Last edited by Vic Winters : 06-30-2008 at 09:11 PM.
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06-30-2008, 09:30 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Canberra, Australia | | | Us mere mortals would just use any old electrolytic for the 10uF, and a cheap, compact cap for the 0.1uF - just about anything would do - ceramic, polyester... whatever you can get your grubby little hands on!
No need for high voltage caps. And beware that some types of cap (eg. polystyrene) are physically enormous for their value compared to other types.
Boss style power supply connectors are 2.1mm.
__________________ niftydog "My feet itch." Mike Patton | 
06-30-2008, 09:33 PM
|  | Registered Shmegistered Endorsing Artist : Genz Benz | | Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Chicago - LA | | | low voltage parts for a battery op. pedals. I have used poly in place of films.
electrolytic can be xicon, illinois cap, and nte parts. pola, means polaraized. it weill have a + and a - side.
actually using a high voltge cap in a low volt signal, while not bearking anything, is not the best way to go. | 
06-30-2008, 10:38 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Rochester, NY | | | I'm confused, does Small Bear label micro Farads as mF instead of uF?
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06-30-2008, 10:50 PM
| | | | How do you mean Vic, surely an established store like Bear Electronics would know the prefixes used for capacitors, if not its a sad day for us all. | 
06-30-2008, 11:06 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Rochester, NY | | http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail....2&sfs=13365d59
It jumps from 820pF to .001mF.
1000pF = .000001mF or 1,000,000 pF = .001mF
Seems like one hell of a jump to go from 820pF to 1,000,000pF.
Especially when 1000pF = .001uF
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Last edited by Vic Winters : 06-30-2008 at 11:11 PM.
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07-01-2008, 12:23 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Canberra, Australia | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Vic Winters I'm confused, does Small Bear label micro Farads as mF instead of uF? | That is the old-school convention, so yes, probably.
It's no less accurate than uF given that it should be µF!
__________________ niftydog "My feet itch." Mike Patton | 
07-01-2008, 12:55 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Beaverton, Oregon | | | mF == uF This is just an old school typewriter-related thing.
"Microfarads" used to be abreviated as "mF" in old radio schematics. In scientific papers and technical journals, the Greek "mu" symbol has traditionally been used in place of the "m". Somewhere along the line people decided that the "mu" symbol looked like a "u" and started using "uF" and "mF" interchangable.
They both mean exactly the same thing. | 
07-05-2008, 03:25 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Rochester, NY | | I got my parts today and I'm in the build process, but since I'm complete noob when it comes to reading schematics, can someone tell me where the output is on it? I'm assuming it comes off the Volume pot but I'm not sure. http://gaussmarkov.net/layouts/bblen...er-project.pdf
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07-05-2008, 05:53 PM
| | Registered User Creator/Owner: Wren and Cuff FX | | Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: LA, California | | | center lug (2), volume pot...
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07-06-2008, 06:58 AM
| | Registered User watch RING OF POWER now! | | Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Darlington, SC | | | im happy with my barge paralooper - but always wanted to play with a boss LS-2
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07-08-2008, 02:38 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Rochester, NY | | | Can someone show me the off board wiring for this as well?
I checked out the Tone Pad link from the paralooper site and it did nothing for me since none of them contained Send and Return as part of the schematic, also the picture from the paralooper site confused the hell out of me with 3 stereo (TRS) jacks.
I believe I have all the necessary parts for the off board wiring.
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07-08-2008, 02:59 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2003 Location: Leeds, UK | | Vic, you're like a sponge man. Keep learning 
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07-08-2008, 03:40 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Rochester, NY | | | My shot in the dark guess would be:
Input Jack Tip -> 3PDT Input
3PDT Send -> Board Input
Board Send -> Send Jack Tip
Return Jack Tip -> Board Return
Board -> Volume Pot
Volume Pot -> 3PDT Return
3PDT Out -> Output Jack Tip
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07-08-2008, 07:19 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Rochester, NY | | |
Last edited by Vic Winters : 07-08-2008 at 08:28 PM.
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