BOSS pedals - failure of the on/off switch

[gastric]

I've had three different BOSS pedals that I have difficulty reliably switching them on/off with the foot pedal. I'm assuming the internal microswitch is simply wearing out. Though I'm shocked that I've had this happen on three different boxes (out of the 5 I believe I've owned). The worst was an OC-2 which I'd probably have to stomp on like 5 times to get it to switch. My Metal Zone isn't as bad, but still takes a couple stomps usually. My LS-2 which is nearly brand new, though I bought it used, does it less often.

While I'm thinking it's the pedals due to the fact three of them are doing this I'm thinking it might be user error. I'm assuming I should be able to simply stomp the damn thing (quick, slow, hard, light, shouldn't matter) and it should reliably turn on/off. Correct?

I haven't had this problem on any other pedal by any other manufacturer, including others with soft switches like DOD.

Related, does anyone have a cheap source for replacment micro switches assuming that's my problem? Thought I'd ask while I was already blathering away.

[FeuerFrei]

I talked to a local pedal builder about this, he said frequently the return spring itself was wearing out, causing the pedal to quit engaging. Find a local pedal guy, or for lack of that see if you can find a Ham Radio Operator repair guy, they call themselves elmers, either group can probably get that switch working or replaced for $30

[gastric]

Which is about the cost of an entire replacement pedal in many cases. I honestly sold my OC-2 for $40 advertised with the switch acting the way it was. With an OC-2 it's not as big of a deal as you rarely need to turn in on/off quickly. But I need the LS-2 and Metal Zone to toggle instantly without fuddling around stomping the bejesus out of it. Regardless, I'd do the repair myself assuming it was simply a switch that needs replacement.

After posting this message I should probably just contact BOSS directly and ask their advice before I get too excited.

[Pitbull Growl]

I got a DOD pedal from a TB'er here that wouldn't switch. Turns out the foam rubber that contacts the switch on the board had just folded over... was a simple 20 sec. fix.

Pop 'em open and see if they're making contact w/the switch.

[Bassliner]

Replying to a 2009 thread... but yeah.

Have a Boss OC2 that's only turning ON. I already replaced the actual switch, but that didn't help the problem.

Plug it into power, its on. And the switch just won't turn it off. I've tried 3 different switches now (including the original one) so.. what else could it be? I have a multi meter available, but I'm pretty clueless about where to start looking for the problem.
A friend mentioned it might be a cap gone bad. Any tips on where to look?

I have other octavers available, but I just love that wobbly OC2 sound, which the Markbass Super Synth or EHX B Micro Synth just doesn't give me. (The MB tracks a lot better, but I guess I sometimes prefer the 'crappy' sound of the Boss)

[moose23]

The problem will most likely be with the Jfet transistors used in the switching or one/some of the components used in the switching around Q5/Q6 in the below schematic:

[bongomania]

^^^ Good suggestion.

Every Boss or DOD I've personally dealt with where the switch didn't work, it was solved by cleaning the switch and making sure the spring mechanism still operated how it should. But since replacing the switch didn't work in this case, I have to agree it's probably one of the transistors or related components.

[Cougmeister]

Don't mean to hijack the tread, but I have an ME50B and can't get it to power on. It just has a slide switch on the back of the board. One of my bandmates works with various testing tools and couldn't find anything wrong with it. Could my switch just be bad then?

[Skrogh]

I doubt that it's the FETs. It is most likely something mechanical or a cap in the multivibrator ( lower right corner of the schematic)