Bypassing Rack Effects? MAM Warp 9 content

[speak_onion]

OK, so I have an MAM Warp 9 Analog Filter/VCA on its way to me, and I'm giddy about putting it in my bass rig. Here's the trouble: there's no way to bypass it without using my hands. The MIDI imlpementation doesn't include the bypass button and there's no footswitch input.

Here's the manual in case one of you can find a simple way to implement stomp bypass that I missed, but I don't think so:
http://files.muziq.be/manuals/mam_warp9.pdf

My first inclination would be to use a TB loop, but since it's meant to work with line level signals, and I'll probably have it in my rack and in my Amp's FX loop, that seems like a lot of cables going back and forth between rack and pedalboard.

I'm down with soldering, so if anyone knows of a way to implement bypass with a box for the switch and a box for the in/out and send/return with only one cable (even if it's TRS) between the two, I'm all ears. Or if there's any other suggestions anyone has, I'm willing to try it.

What do you think about trying to mod the bypass button into a footswitch jack? Is that a bad idea? I'm confident I can make it work electrically; it's only the drilling a hole in the box that makes me nervous.

Any help is appreciated. And whatever happens, I promise a review and soundclips.

[bongomania]

You, know, it's funny you ask this! I have three MAM units, all with the same issue, and I've been meaning to try and figure out some solution for a few years now.

The first thought I had was as you describe, replacing the switch with a jack. I haven't opened up mine in the last couple of years so I don't remember exactly, but I seem to recall the space inside at that point is pretty tight, i.e. a jack and plug may not fit there.

My second thought was to extend those connections back to the rear panel, which would solve the space issue and you'd only be drilling in the back. But I still haven't researched what sort of footswitch would be needed to make it work. Could be simple, I don't know yet.

My third thought was to build a true bypass loop box connected to the MAM unit by a 5-pin DIN (MIDI) cable. I'm imagining five wires would be sufficient to carry the four signals (in, send, return, out) plus a common ground. Of course that would involve drilling an even larger hole in the back of the MAM, to install a female 5-pin DIN jack.

[Sir Edward V]

Originally Posted by bongomania

You, know, it's funny you ask this! I have three MAM units, all with the same issue, and I've been meaning to try and figure out some solution for a few years now.

The first thought I had was as you describe, replacing the switch with a jack. I haven't opened up mine in the last couple of years so I don't remember exactly, but I seem to recall the space inside at that point is pretty tight, i.e. a jack and plug may not fit there.

My second thought was to extend those connections back to the rear panel, which would solve the space issue and you'd only be drilling in the back. But I still haven't researched what sort of footswitch would be needed to make it work. Could be simple, I don't know yet.

My third thought was to build a true bypass loop box connected to the MAM unit by a 5-pin DIN (MIDI) cable. I'm imagining five wires would be sufficient to carry the four signals (in, send, return, out) plus a common ground. Of course that would involve drilling an even larger hole in the back of the MAM, to install a female 5-pin DIN jack.

I went through all those ideas in my head a second ago, lol.

My answer? Relay switching. I forget how exactly relays work, either it switches when you give it a momentary voltage, or it is in one direction when it sees constant voltage, then in the other when it sees none.

SO, get a DPDT relay to set up TB (I assume you know how to do that part?), a stereo jack and cable. The tricky part will be to supply the relay with voltage... you might have to mess around with the power circuitry inside or something... the safest way would probably be to add a 9V input jack and add a wall wart...

Can you get the rest from there, or should I explain myself fully?

[squarewave]

Originally Posted by Sir Edward V

... the safest way would probably be to add a 9V input jack and add a wall wart...

The last time I looked, I couldn't find 9V relays. It must be an uncommon voltage for relays. I'll look again.

[Modulator]

Can't remember who makes it now but I was reading about a little unit called the AB Cadabra that is basically a MIDI controlled A/B box.

There are three inputs; you run cables from the send and return of your amp into the AB Cadabra, the third gets a stereo plug with two monos on the other end that go into your effect(s). You then use your midi controller to instruct the AB Cadabra to take the effects in and out of your effects loop.

I haven't tried one, but it sounds cool.

[bongomania]

There are a few MIDI-based switching systems out there, but at least for me MIDI is an undesirable headache, and doesn't help provide a simple bypass switch with only one cable.

[Sir Edward V]

Originally Posted by squarewave

The last time I looked, I couldn't find 9V relays. It must be an uncommon voltage for relays. I'll look again.

Yeah, I don't remember much about relays as I haven't actually had to use them myself... I shall investigate...

[Sir Edward V]

yeah I see 3V, 5V, 12V, and 24V

ooh found a 9V dpdt

http://www.futurlec.com/RelDip.shtml

costs $0.80

hmm, also on that page are 4pdt relays that operate at either 12V or 5V... that is handy to know for future reference...

[Modulator]

Originally Posted by bongomania

There are a few MIDI-based switching systems out there, but at least for me MIDI is an undesirable headache, and doesn't help provide a simple bypass switch with only one cable.

Strangely enough, for me analog seems to be much more of an undesireable headache.

The cabling is really not much more if he's already using a midi controller for the effect, and IMO a more elegant option than modifying a brand new unit and negating the warranty.

The AB Cadabra is much more basic and cheaper (around $150.00) than most of the MIDI switching systems...just discovered it's made by Sound Sculpture (www.soundsculpture.com).

[Sir Edward V]

Originally Posted by Modulator

Strangely enough, for me analog seems to be much more of an undesireable headache.

The cabling is really not much more if he's already using a midi controller for the effect, and IMO a more elegant option than modifying a brand new unit and negating the warranty.

The AB Cadabra is much more basic and cheaper (around $150.00) than most of the MIDI switching systems...just discovered it's made by Sound Sculpture (www.soundsculpture.com).

$150 for that solution, under $20 for this one... but the warranty might not be worth it... I think I would do it anyways

[Modulator]

Originally Posted by Sir Edward V

$150 for that solution, under $20 for this one... but the warranty might not be worth it... I think I would do it anyways

Didn't say my way was cheaper, or even best...just an option.

[bongomania]

Originally Posted by Modulator

The cabling is really not much more if he's already using a midi controller for the effect, and IMO a more elegant option than modifying a brand new unit and negating the warranty.

Even if using a MIDI system already, it's four cables (including the MIDI thru) instead of one. The MAM units are long out of production, no warranty. But I do acknowledge that it's "an option".

[Modulator]

Originally Posted by bongomania

Even if using a MIDI system already, it's four cables (including the MIDI thru) instead of one. The MAM units are long out of production, no warranty. But I do acknowledge that it's "an option".

Instead of three. You have to go into the effects loop regardless. And you'd be totally bypassing the effect when it isn't in use.

No need to continue debating this, though. It really comes down to personal preference. Some people are comfortable with modifying their gear. I just don't happen to be one of them.

[speak_onion]

I appreciate all the advice here, thanks all!

I'm not planning to use MIDI to control the effect, so I think I'd like to avoid midi altogether because of cost. Furthermore, I don't think I have to mod the MAM at all.

Relays seem like the ticket. SEV- I'm not sure if I understand the diagram at the bottom of page 3 (aka page 43) of that relay's datasheet. Am I correct in assuming that "energize" means "put 9V across?" And how does the switching work? Does it show that pin 4 switches between 5 and 8 and pin 13 switches between 9 and 11? I suppose I could figure this all out by sitting down with the relay, a breadboard and a multimeter, but I'm too impatient.

I guess I need a DPDT switch (one pole for the LED operation), and a stereo jack at the pedalboard. The switch would then alternate whether tip or ring had the 9V. A TRS cable would connect that to a box that has a stereo jack for input from the pedal, plus 4 mono jacks wired up for true bypass using the relay. The previous two sentences may not make sense to anyone but me, but that's ok.

Bongo- I promise to document this fully so that if you want to rig up something similar for your MAM units, you'll have something to work from.

I fracking love talkbass.

[gastric]

Resurrecting this thread in hopes someone with electronics knowledge can give me some instruction as to the proper components and solder points to install an external footswitch jack so I can control the Warp 9 bypass with a Behringer FCB1010 which can provide a latching (or momentary) footswitch controller. Assuming that is even physically possible.

I'll have this in an effects loop already populated with other rack gear. I figure I can mod to control with the FCB1010's latching footswitch control, buy a racked switcher/router, or come up with some other solution that doesn't involve me adding more pedals to my pedal board.

The manual bypass switch is pictured in the red circles.