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  #1  
Old 06-15-2009, 11:24 PM
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Custom stereo loop switcher/reverser

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I am building a large effects/looping setup and am looking for a custom pedal to run my stereo DL4 and EHX 2880 around and/or through each other. I want to be able to choose which comes first so I can use the delay before or after the looper. Popping during switching will be a major concern because of the delay and loop recording. (duh)

Here's a quick mock-up of what I think I want:



Any reasons this wouldn't work? Any thoughts on who could build me one?

I have sent emails out to Loooper (though I realized afterward that he is out of commission for the time being ), Toadworks (to see if they would build me a custom Roundabout Turbo), Red Onion, PepTone, and Barge.
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Last edited by Spacelordmother : 06-16-2009 at 05:40 PM.
  #2  
Old 06-16-2009, 05:40 PM
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I got some responses back from Peptone and Barge.

Apparently clicking might be an issue with the required switches in this setup. Geoff from Barge had a lot of questions, and some ideas which is cool. This thing might just get built yet.

Are there any units out there that can accomplish this I haven't thought of?
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  #3  
Old 06-16-2009, 06:05 PM
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wobo had/has something i believe. but you would need something for the wet out/dry out with that unit, posibly just pair it up with a blender of some sort?
  #4  
Old 06-16-2009, 06:41 PM
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Nice! I'll send them an email right now.

Thanks!
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  #5  
Old 06-16-2009, 06:58 PM
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Pedalboards.com makes the Flip Flopper:
http://www.pedalboards.com/new_page_2.htm

If popping is a potential problem issue though, then you'd want to go with a buffered loop system, and the Flip Flopper may be true bypass if it's like their other loopers.
  #6  
Old 06-18-2009, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spacelordmother View Post
I am building a large effects/looping setup and am looking for a custom pedal to run my stereo DL4 and EHX 2880 around and/or through each other. I want to be able to choose which comes first so I can use the delay before or after the looper. Popping during switching will be a major concern because of the delay and loop recording. (duh)

Here's a quick mock-up of what I think I want:



Any reasons this wouldn't work? Any thoughts on who could build me one?

I have sent emails out to Loooper (though I realized afterward that he is out of commission for the time being ), Toadworks (to see if they would build me a custom Roundabout Turbo), Red Onion, PepTone, and Barge.
I don't recall you contacting us... I would have suggested our Roundabout Turbo - I think it already does what you want.

Oops - never mind - you're after a stereo setup... just not possible w/ 3PDT switches.
  #7  
Old 06-18-2009, 05:13 PM
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I missed that he said stereo as well.
  #8  
Old 06-18-2009, 09:30 PM
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Toady - weird that the email didn't go through... I dunno.

I guess I don't mean true stereo - just 2 separate signals that stay separate in each loop. So, like 2 loops that are controlled by the same switch, and 2 of those loops.
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  #9  
Old 06-26-2009, 12:39 PM
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Right, but each loop has a send & a return - that's 2 'poles'... so you would need at least a 4PDT switch to have a stereo (regardless of if you use it that way, it's the same circuit requirement) loop switcher.... 5PDT if you want an LED indicator..

So, you basically have three options:

1) buy something off the shelf that already does all this... they exist but are expensive

2) have someone design you a fet-based switching system similar to the off the shelf systems... also very expensive

3) find some low voltage mechanical relays, and use a stomp-switch to feed power to them.

#3 is going to be the easiest and cheapest solution. It's simple - just wire the input and outputs for both loops to 2 different mechanical relays (one for each loop). You can use something like this:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...9EQa5KTLzpU%3d

http://www.fcai.fujitsu.com/pdf/na.pdf

$3 each, It's basically a DPDT switch that is activated by applying a positive voltage - in this case 9V DC, so it can be powered with any standard pedal PS.

The power to each relay would all be controlled by one switch - even a SPST switch would work.

If you really want the switcher you describe, this is your best bet.
  #10  
Old 06-26-2009, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toadworksusa View Post
It's simple
Easy for you to say!

How would I go about having something like this built?

Also, I have slightly revised my idea to this:



Does this change what I would need to do to make this thing happen?

Thanks so much for taking the time to weigh in!
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  #11  
Old 06-28-2009, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spacelordmother View Post
Easy for you to say!

How would I go about having something like this built?

Also, I have slightly revised my idea to this:



Does this change what I would need to do to make this thing happen?

Thanks so much for taking the time to weigh in!
Assuming the center switch is a 'Y' (both A & B in parallel), yes, it changes things. It will need some active component to buffer the signals in both splitting and summing nodes.... but then it's no longer true-bypass.

To have something like this built, you'll need to find someone who does custom work as a hobby, that's the only way it would be affordable.

If I have time this week I'll draw up a circuit diagram that should do the trick. But I don't want to build it.

Wait.... just looked closer... what's the WET and DRY outputs for? If you want both sets of outputs to be live, this can't possibly be true bypass, even with relays.... in which case it's easier to design, but harder to build....
  #12  
Old 06-28-2009, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toadworksusa View Post
But I don't want to build it.
LOL! Any hobbyists looking to stretch their muscles??

Quote:
Originally Posted by toadworksusa View Post
Wait.... just looked closer... what's the WET and DRY outputs for? If you want both sets of outputs to be live, this can't possibly be true bypass, even with relays.... in which case it's easier to design, but harder to build....
Ugh. I am being so confusing! The center switch is the inverter - either A>B or B>A, either/both/neither going to the wet output when active as determined by the other switches.

Yes, I would like the "dry" output to be always active, always bypassing both loops. True bypass isn't as much of a concern to me as is tone and noise since I will be running delays and recording loopers in the loops.
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