I want to build this simple pedal. Help guide me please!

[nboyer941]

Hey, I'd like to build this pedal:

I want it to be an a/b box (2 in 1 out). Then also, I want a mute switch on the bottom. I want three led's (one for each of the 2 inputs and one for the mute switch). I want it powered by a standard boss 9v adapter.

Could someone guide me in the right direction as far and how to go about this and where to buy parts? I do know how to soldier quite well.

Thanks a lot

[bongomania]

All the parts can be found at www.smallbearelec.com , www.mouser.com , www.jameco.com , and www.digikey.com . Small Bear is nice because they have already picked out the parts that are useful for building pedals; but Mouser et.al. are cheaper.

[nboyer941]

Thanks, I guess if I were going to be able to do this, I would need a how to write up for what I need. I don't see one at smallbear.

[bigchiefbc]

Here's a quick 60-second wiring diagram. Feel free to correct me anyone. On the + side of each LED, remember to put a resistor in the 2-5K range:

[cheapbasslovin]

Bigchief's drawing appears sound to me. The only thing you should know is the LED system will only work if an input is plugged into channel B (the channel switching will work with or without a battery). There are other ways to skin this cat, but this'un will work just fine.

Good Luck.

[bigchiefbc]

Originally Posted by cheapbasslovin

Bigchief's drawing appears sound to me. The only thing you should know is the LED system will only work if an input is plugged into channel B (the channel switching will work with or without a battery). There are other ways to skin this cat, but this'un will work just fine.

Good Luck.

Oh yeah, if you connect the sleeve of the A jack to the same ground as sleeve B, then the LED system will work if either A or B has a jack in it.

EDIT: I've made that change in the picture

[nboyer941]

okay, that looks easy enough. Now, what are the two little boards called, and what does rst/st stand for?

[bigchiefbc]

Originally Posted by nboyer941

okay, that looks easy enough. Now, what are the two little boards called, and what does rst/st stand for?

Those aren't boards, those are the stomp switches (DPDT to be specific), if you were looking at them from below the pedal. Those little boxes represent the lugs on the bottom of the switch. Those lugs are where you will solder the wires to the switch. You can find these at pedalpartsplus.com for about 2 dollars each. You'll need two (one for the A/B, one for the muter).

The three things across the bottom are the jacks. The two inputs should be stereo jacks, the out can be mono. These are about a buck apiece. On the two stereo jacks, rst stands for ring, sleeve and tip. Those are the three lugs on the jack. On the mono, st stands for sleeve and tip.

[nboyer941]

perfect....I think my only question now is about the resistor in the 2-5K range. Does that mean I but resisters that come in the 2-5k range and solder it to the + side of the led?

[walker rosewood]

resisters are not polarized, meaning they can go either direction, there is no + or - side.

www.beavisaudio.com -- a very helpful site the explains simple things very cleary.

http://www.diystompboxes.com/ --everything about building your own pedals, including a wiki and a forum. (very helpful folks who are patient with noobs)

www.pedalpartsplus.com --another source for pedal specific parts.

There are other good learning sites I can't think of right now, but I like beavis the most.

[walker rosewood]

When you order the stomp switches, there are several types. Momentary and not momentary. Momentary means that whatever you wire it up to do, it will only do while your pressing it, and as soon as you lift your foot it will stop. So make sure you get a non-momentary switch.

[nboyer941]

thank you guys all so much. I'm going to pick out the parts that I'm going to order today. Then I will post a list of what I picked to make sure I didn't mess up. Thanks! Hopefully this thread will help someone in the future.

[bigchiefbc]

Originally Posted by nboyer941

perfect....I think my only question now is about the resistor in the 2-5K range. Does that mean I but resisters that come in the 2-5k range and solder it to the + side of the led?

Yeah, you want to solder the resistor between the + of the battery and the + side of the LED. The resister can be put in either direction since they aren't polarized.

[nboyer941]

Basket Contents
Qty Product Price
1 Enclosure 1290 {similar to Hammond 1590B} UNFINISHED $5.75
1 Xicon 1/4W 1% Metal Film Resistor 3.3K $0.08
2 Econo DPDT X-Wing Switch $3.90
1 D/C Power Jacks $1.20
1 Neutrik Mono Jack 1/4" open frame (All Metal) $1.15
2 Neutrik Stereo Jack 1/4 in. open frame (All Metal) $2.50
1 Blue LED's (5mm) $0.40
1 green LED's (5mm) $0.40
1 Red LED's (5mm) $0.40
2 5mm Black LED Bezel $1.78
Subtotal $17.16

Hmmm, maybe I picked the wrong switches. Are the "xwings" okay?
http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/me...egory_Code=SWI

*note, I will be using a 9v boss power adapter, not a battery.

[bigchiefbc]

Originally Posted by nboyer941

Basket Contents
Qty Product Price
1 Enclosure 1290 {similar to Hammond 1590B} UNFINISHED $5.75
1 Xicon 1/4W 1% Metal Film Resistor 3.3K $0.08
2 Econo DPDT X-Wing Switch $3.90
1 D/C Power Jacks $1.20
1 Neutrik Mono Jack 1/4" open frame (All Metal) $1.15
2 Neutrik Stereo Jack 1/4 in. open frame (All Metal) $2.50
1 Blue LED's (5mm) $0.40
1 green LED's (5mm) $0.40
1 Red LED's (5mm) $0.40
2 5mm Black LED Bezel $1.78
Subtotal $17.16

Hmmm, maybe I picked the wrong switches. Are the "xwings" okay?
http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/me...egory_Code=SWI

*note, I will be using a 9v boss power adapter, not a battery.

Yeah, the x-wings are fine. Really any DPDT switch will work as long as its not the momentary one.

As for the power, that's fine. 9vdc power adapter is wired the same way as the battery. The only difference is that it will have 3 lugs, 1 negative and 2 positive. Wire to the middle positive lug, and ignore the rightmost one (looking from top down)

[cheapbasslovin]

Originally Posted by nboyer941
Basket Contents
Qty Product Price
1 Enclosure 1290 {similar to Hammond 1590B} UNFINISHED $5.75
1 Xicon 1/4W 1% Metal Film Resistor 3.3K $0.08
2 Econo DPDT X-Wing Switch $3.90
1 D/C Power Jacks $1.20
1 Neutrik Mono Jack 1/4" open frame (All Metal) $1.15
2 Neutrik Stereo Jack 1/4 in. open frame (All Metal) $2.50
1 Blue LED's (5mm) $0.40
1 green LED's (5mm) $0.40
1 Red LED's (5mm) $0.40
2 5mm Black LED Bezel $1.78
Subtotal $17.16

Hmmm, maybe I picked the wrong switches. Are the "xwings" okay?
http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/me...egory_Code=SWI


*note, I will be using a 9v boss power adapter, not a battery.

You can put one resistor in front of all three LEDs, but you'll probably want 3; one resistor per LED. Plus one bezel per LED.

[nboyer941]

what does the whole 2-5k mean in reference to the resisters?

[cheapbasslovin]

It is a resistance measurement. Basically the higher the resistance value the more voltage it dissipates and less current flows through it. This means the higher your resistance value is, the lower the voltage (or current, or both), reaching the LED is. If you don't put a resistor in there, you will likely destroy the LED (or so I'm told, I've never tried it personally).

If you only put one in front of all three before you split the positive voltage, it will work, but as you turn on each additional LED the others will get dimmer as they are all sharing the available current. If they each have their own with the circuit split before the resistors, then they will each have the same available current, and won't have to share.

EDIT::: I'm guessing (and trust bigchief as I've never installed my own LED-resistor combo) that 2k-5k allows for adequate LED brightness without destroying it.

[bigchiefbc]

Originally Posted by cheapbasslovin

It is a resistance measurement. Basically the higher the resistance value the more voltage it dissipates and less current flows through it. This means the higher your resistance value is, the lower the voltage (or current, or both), reaching the LED is. If you don't put a resistor in there, you will likely destroy the LED (or so I'm told, I've never tried it personally).

If you only put one in front of all three before you split the positive voltage, it will work, but as you turn on each additional LED the others will get dimmer as they are all sharing the available current. If they each have their own with the circuit split before the resistors, then they will each have the same available current, and won't have to share.

EDIT::: I'm guessing (and trust bigchief as I've never installed my own LED-resistor combo) that 2k-5k allows for adequate LED brightness without destroying it.

I have used a few different values, ranging from 2k to 10k, and they've worked fine. Beavis Audio suggests 2.2k, looks like. So same ballpark.

[walker rosewood]

pedalpartsplus will also drill holes for you if you want, for a small price. I like to order extra parts, especially the cheap stuff like LED's and resisters, stockpile for future builds.