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01-28-2009, 07:11 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: NYC/LI | | | Overhaulin' my BassBalls
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Hey gents,
Just picked up a bassballs from the classifieds to find out the sensitivity knob doesn't work. Frankly, didn't even realize it until my guitarist looked at me like I was an idiot and said, "You do realize that that's doing absolutely nothing...right?"
So when I got home I popped it open to find the lugs of the sensitivity pot moving around freely, which my limited electronics know-how tells me is no bueno. However, I couldn't really figure out what kind of pot it is to switch it out, can anyone help me out? Figure I'd just order everything I need off smallbear or something.
While I'm at it, I also thought I'd switch it over to truebypass and add an LED (it was one of the old ones). Does anyone have a resister value recommendation?
Thanks guys
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Shawty got low, low, low, low, low, low low.
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01-28-2009, 07:26 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: New York | | | I thought it was already true-bypass, no? At least the Nano is, methinks. | 
01-28-2009, 07:44 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Birmingham, England | | | personally if it were me i would contact the more electronically minded TB'ers they will be able to help you out the two guys that spring to mind that are in the US are rcubed and B.C | 
01-28-2009, 07:50 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: NYC/LI | | | Not pre-2003 methinks. Cracked it open and it was this wax-dipped thing.
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Shawty got low, low, low, low, low, low low.
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01-28-2009, 09:16 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Maine | | | Schemo sez sensitivity knob is a 10k Linear taper. | 
01-28-2009, 09:38 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: NYC/LI | | Quote:
Originally Posted by shooter_mi Schemo sez sensitivity knob is a 10k Linear taper. | Thank you kindly.
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Shawty got low, low, low, low, low, low low.
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01-28-2009, 09:48 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Maine | | | If you take some well lighted, close-up pictures of the inside of the chassis and both sides of the board we can probably help you out with the footswitch replacement and LED addition, too. | 
01-28-2009, 12:37 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: NYC/LI | | Quote:
Originally Posted by shooter_mi If you take some well lighted, close-up pictures of the inside of the chassis and both sides of the board we can probably help you out with the footswitch replacement and LED addition, too. | That would be great. For the switch switch (  ) and the light I was working off a guide I found after some intense googling that are all on my home computer. I'll take some pics once I get home from work. For right now.
Am I going to need anything more than this?
-Alpha Single-Gang 16mm Rt-Angle PC Mt Long-Pin Linear & Audio
(10K Linear)
-LED T-1 3mm Water-clear High-brightness
(White)
-Switch - Taiwan Blue 3PDT
-2.2k resistor
-Bezel, LED 3mm, Chrome
I figure I'll make this as detailed as possible so a search for "LED mod" will come up fruitful.
__________________
Shawty got low, low, low, low, low, low low.
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01-28-2009, 02:40 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2008 Location: Vista, CA | | | You can always find resistance of a pot by measuring from lug 1 to lug 3. | 
01-28-2009, 02:57 PM
| | Banned | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: New York, NY | | Quote:
Originally Posted by katri personally if it were me i would contact the more electronically minded TB'ers they will be able to help you out the two guys that spring to mind that are in the US are rcubed and B.C | Let's not forget Bongo. | 
01-28-2009, 08:02 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: NYC/LI | | Quote:
Originally Posted by shooter_mi If you take some well lighted, close-up pictures of the inside of the chassis and both sides of the board we can probably help you out with the footswitch replacement and LED addition, too. |
Parts were ordered this afternoon, so I guess I'll be able to get quackin next week.
__________________
Shawty got low, low, low, low, low, low low.
Last edited by fenderx55 : 01-29-2009 at 07:28 AM.
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01-28-2009, 08:03 PM
| | Banned | | Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Maine/Vermont | | | Pics aren't showing up for me. | 
01-28-2009, 08:27 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: NYC/LI | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Deluge Of Sound Pics aren't showing up for me. | should be good now, I didn't use a static link the first time.
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Shawty got low, low, low, low, low, low low.
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01-28-2009, 08:29 PM
| | Banned | | Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Maine/Vermont | | | Yup, working fine. | 
01-28-2009, 10:54 PM
|  | Registered User | | | | the first pic kind of looks artistic.  | 
01-29-2009, 07:29 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: NYC/LI | | Quote:
Originally Posted by whoatherechunk the first pic kind of looks artistic.  | Whoa, I was just going for some good light... but you're right...
__________________
Shawty got low, low, low, low, low, low low.
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02-06-2009, 06:51 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: NYC/LI | | K guys, parts came today, I changed out the broken knob which was easy enough, but I'm not quite sure how to proceed in connecting everything to the true bypass switch since it's not just a wire off the board and a wire to the board. Here are some clearer gut shots (realized my camera has a macro setting).
here's the switch I'm using, a taiwan blue 3pdt:
which is from this website, which I was using as a loose guide.
Anyone know of an explicit how-to or have some pearls of wisdom?
Thanks for any help,
chris
__________________
Shawty got low, low, low, low, low, low low.
Last edited by fenderx55 : 02-09-2009 at 01:40 PM.
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02-09-2009, 01:45 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: NYC/LI | | | An "I'm-bored-at work-so-maybe-you-are-too" bump?
__________________
Shawty got low, low, low, low, low, low low.
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02-09-2009, 02:24 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Maine | | | Follow the wires from the input and output. Where do they go and what color are they? It looks like your switch has three lugs, what do those wires connect to?
The Gaussmarkov diagrams you linked are exactly what you'll be using for this project. He's a good resource.
You said i the first post that the pot lugs moved freely, in the photos it looks like they are soldered into the board. Is there something I'm not seeing? | 
02-09-2009, 03:06 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: NYC/LI | | Quote:
Originally Posted by shooter_mi You said i the first post that the pot lugs moved freely, in the photos it looks like they are soldered into the board. Is there something I'm not seeing? | Yeah, it's actually something a picture wouldn't be able to represent; the mount point of the lugs to the knob post actually move in an "I'm broken" manner. Quote:
Originally Posted by shooter_mi Follow the wires from the input and output. Where do they go and what color are they? It looks like your switch has three lugs, what do those wires connect to? | This is the part I wasn't totally positive about. In the third picture the blue wire coming off the right-hand lug of the switch goes straight to the output jack. I've already soldered that to the 3dpt switch (along with the jump) as denoted in the Gaussmarkov diagrams. The white wire goes to the back of the PCB and jumps from a solder joint there to another white wire going to the distortion switch. I'm guessing that's an overall output and would go to the top right lug of the 3dpt?
Black wire goes to the board, not sure where it jumps to, I suspect the input? Hm, I guess I just needed to break it down, thanks for the Socratic walk through. Something really confused me though, I'll go home and see if I get re-confused.
Thanks MI.
PS, and I guess the LED set up would work exactly like the Gaussmarkov website, correct?
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Shawty got low, low, low, low, low, low low.
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