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  #1  
Old 02-05-2009, 09:46 AM
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Passive Switch Box Schematics

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I've tidied up my collection of passive switch box schematics and pasted them all together, hopefully these may be of use to people who want to have a bash at wielding a soldering iron and put one of these incredibly useful little boxes together themselves.

Passive Switch Wiring
9V battery powers the LED indicators thru a 2k resistor
Uses combinations of 3PDT and DPDT switches
X-grounding for noise suppression where appropriate
Where not indicated, jackplug earths are grounded out together

1. A/B switch allows switching between 2 inputs into one output (eg: switch between 2 guitars in a gig without having to unplug) or use in reverse with one input switching between 2 outputs, eg: 1 guitar into either of 2 amps or amp/tuner, or select pedal chain or bypass for example.

2. A/B/Y switch allows AND/OR config: one guitar into either amp A OR amp B OR both at same time.
Note: Can be used in reverse as A/B box but not recommended for 2 inputs simultaneously into one amp - guitars will interfere and cause hum.

3. A/B+X/Y switch allows A or B choice on input and X or Y choice on output, for example, choose one of 2 guitars on stage into one of 2 different amps, 1 of 2 guitars into either amp or tuner (will mute amp)

4. A/B/C switch allows one of 3 guitars into 1 amp or in reverse, 1 input into either of 2 amps or a tuner for example. Switch 1 chooses between A and (B or C). Switch 2 chooses either B or C.

5. Feedback/Loop switch selects to either bypass or route signal thru an effects box with option to blend some of the 'wet' signal back into the effect loop (level set by 250k pot) or leave it 'one-pass'.

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  #2  
Old 02-05-2009, 09:49 AM
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Very handy, thanks!
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  #3  
Old 02-05-2009, 09:57 AM
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I'm trying to build one that's just on/off...

Any suggestions.. I"m not an Electical Engineer.
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  #4  
Old 02-05-2009, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MNAirHead View Post
I'm trying to build one that's just on/off...

Any suggestions.. I"m not an Electical Engineer.
I don't see why the A/B switch wouldn't work... just leave "B" leading to nowhere.
  #5  
Old 02-05-2009, 10:20 AM
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Oh yeah, Thanks to the op! This will come in handy someday!!!!
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Old 02-05-2009, 10:39 AM
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I totally forgot.

I have a switch and box.. it's probably a single on/off (spst?).. I've delayed assembling this as I'm sure I just can't switch the hot on/off without hearing a pop.

It would be cool to have an LED status.. not necessary.

I do plan on doing dual on one side .. this would allow me to patch in a drum machine or iPod if necessary.

Sincere thanks.. I will post results.

AB SWITCH..
I'm not that elecytronically bright.. as this looks, we're using one of the posts on the switch to fire the LED.. correct? I could eliminate this and just use a pigtale type switch --- correct? Any tips on how to minimize a "pop"
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  #7  
Old 02-05-2009, 11:00 AM
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The input jack used in the Loop/Feedback is stereo??? doesn't matter if a mono one is used??? cheers.
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  #8  
Old 02-05-2009, 11:24 AM
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the third row of lugs on the 3pdt switches are for the LED indicators. You can dispense with them if you don't want LED's, but jeez, who doesn't want LED's? LED's are great!
The stereo jack is wired to switch the battery in and out of the circuit to power the LED's. If you don't want batteries or lights you can use a mono.
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Old 02-05-2009, 11:37 AM
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Thanks Al.

Funny thing is we own a little company.. we had a machine come in with a foot switch.. found a small box.. thought why not.

So to clarify.

If I just switch the hot.. it shouldn't "pop" or is there some type of noise supressor I should concern myself with.

T.

Thanks again.. this has been on the back of my mind for a month or so. I play a gig where we get up and down.. I do not like to turn on/off amps .. switching off the input would be smart.
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  #10  
Old 02-05-2009, 11:47 AM
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Beavis Audio also has some great references: http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages...cker/index.htm

And for an order switcher: http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages...erSwitcher.htm
  #11  
Old 02-05-2009, 11:52 AM
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great diagram
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  #12  
Old 02-05-2009, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MNAirHead View Post
Thanks Al.
...If I just switch the hot.. it shouldn't "pop"...
I built one of each to check they work and they don't pop - as long as you keep the live for the LED's away from the hot signal path.

Rcubed: nice link, some good schematics on the beavis site. thanks!
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Last edited by Al Heeley : 02-05-2009 at 12:07 PM.
  #13  
Old 02-05-2009, 12:07 PM
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Confirmed.. I'll do this in the next few weeks.. will update with pix and a report.

Tim
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  #14  
Old 02-05-2009, 12:13 PM
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Awesome list. Thanks, Al, this will really come in handy.
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  #15  
Old 03-11-2010, 05:51 PM
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So, someone just asked me to build them an a/b box. I said no problem, but then they asked if it could have three inputs, I said no problem. But I know sometimes he is going to want to play through B and C, no A. How can this be done?
  #16  
Old 03-11-2010, 06:00 PM
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I usually use Beavis for my switches, but it's always nice to see more ideas/options. Thanks man!
  #17  
Old 01-22-2011, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scotch View Post
I don't see why the A/B switch wouldn't work... just leave "B" leading to nowhere.
I put those switches on my e basses. on= wired regular off= to ground.

I am gonna build a passive A/B box with 2 switches- one for mute. Also going to put stacked volume/tone knobs on each. This will be for balancing upright/electric through one amp.

I am going to build it for 2 reasons- 1. I can't find one to buy anywhere; and 2. I want it totally passive-
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