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  #1  
Old 05-23-2009, 11:37 AM
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Top Tips for Taking Better Photographs with Your Pocket Camera; Effects Edition.

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In an effort to keep the effects subforum beautiful I took some time, some pictures and some notes to help improve the quality of photographs here in the Effects subforum. Perhaps it just an excuse to take and post pictures of my stuff too. . I hope to demonstrate how to use some of the often overlooked functions on your Point and Shoot Camera.

I was somewhat inspired by fender32's Sticky in the Basses subforum. A lot of the techniques discussed there will apply to taking pictures of your effects and as with bass playing a lot of it boils down to the right tools and sound technique.

All of my photographs are done with a Nikon S210.



The Tripod is your most valuable tool and you will see why in a moment. My tripod is a horrible garage sale find, but it does the trick.

The below photograph was taken at 8am with daylight (not sun) filtering in through a west facing window.



As you can see it is a little blurry due to a slow shutter speed. Had I taken the same picture on a tripod, the picture would have been a lot sharper.

Stay Tuned....
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Last edited by warwick.hoy : 05-23-2009 at 12:11 PM.
  #2  
Old 05-23-2009, 11:39 AM
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Avoid using the fill flash if at all possible.

Switch your flash settings to this.



Not all; but most FX are shiny. Using the fill flash just means that you have a bright light reflecting back into the camera's lens resulting in a washed out picture. I call it flash burn.



See how the TU-2 and the LMB-3 is bouncing the flash right back to the camera...ack.

Here is the same picture without the flash....much less harsh.



Not using a flash brings up the issue of slow shutter speeds. That's where the tripod comes in. Even a budget tripod will hold the camera steady enough to keep pictures sharp with slow shutter speeds. I don't use the timer too often because there is enough lag between the time I press the shutter button and the time the picture is snapped, but it is a good habit to have. My camera has a 2 second timer and a 10 second timer. 2 seconds is fine for what we are doing here. Below is what the menu icon looks like.



Let's Talk about the Slow Sync Flash for a moment. The icon looks like a star behind a figure. It is right next to the "M" icon on the dial below.



What happens here is the Flash activates and seconds later the shutter opens at a slow shutter speed. It is often used to convey motion in action shots such as the following.



The flash freezes the action and the slow shutter speed gives you the blurs.

For our purposes it can help to bring out help to bring out detail and solve some issues.

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Last edited by warwick.hoy : 05-23-2009 at 12:40 PM.
  #3  
Old 05-23-2009, 11:40 AM
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Up until now you will probably have noticed that the biggest issue so far is getting any kind of detail on the TU-2. It is a problem because it is so much lighter than the other pedals. To properly deal with such issues you need expensive studio lighting and boxes or you just have to isolate the pedal. Photoshop and traditional dodging and burning techniques can help to, but for our purposes lets see if we can fix it without special techniques, or equipment.

Let's focus on Exposure Compensation. The bellow icon is what you will encounter on most cameras.



The following sequence is with no flash and the exposure settings are as follows.

0.0
-1.0
-2.0







The following sequence is with the Slow Sync Flash and exposure settings as follow.

0.0
-1.0
-2.0







Think of these as your F-Stop on a traditional 35 mm camera.
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  #4  
Old 05-23-2009, 11:43 AM
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= amusing juxtaposition.
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  #5  
Old 05-23-2009, 11:45 AM
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Up until this point I've noticed that I'm still not satisfied with this shot. The previous shots have been earlier in the day with daylight filtering in through a west facing window. They still seem a little out of focus as well so I dug through my camera's settings and changed the focus from center priority to auto.

I went back and redid this shot with overhead lighting provided by two glass shaded compact florescent bulbs (typical apartment light fixture). Seems a little better in focus.

The following is the resultant shot. Exposure Compensation is -2.0 and the Slow Sync Flash is on.

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  #6  
Old 05-23-2009, 11:51 AM
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Seems to me that if you were to take the shot from a little bit out front instead of directly above, the reflection from the flash would go away from the lens and create less of an issue. You may get more direct light on the pedals and less of it coming back undiffused to the lens.

Says the guy with no camera in his hands.
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  #7  
Old 05-23-2009, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapbasslovin View Post
Arts and crafts drawers with hearts for labels
+ OC2 / Supercollider combo

= amusing juxtaposition.


Here is another installment....

The Macro Setting is for Closeups



This thread is full of macro photography...there are some quality shots in there.

This is what the macro setting can do.



The idea is to set your camera up on a tripod with some distance between you and your subject. You then zoom to compose you picture. If your image seems out of focus in your view screen don't be discouraged. Snap the shot and; provided you aren't too close to your subject....it should turn out in focus.
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  #8  
Old 05-23-2009, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapbasslovin View Post
Seems to me that if you were to take the shot from a little bit out front instead of directly above, the reflection from the flash would go away from the lens and create less of an issue. You may get more direct light on the pedals and less of it coming back undiffused to the lens.

Says the guy with no camera in his hands.
Good catch.

Taking cbl's advice and also making a venue change produce a better quality shot. I originally tried the hardwood floors because it made for a nicer background and with the right lighting it is nice...but this time it just wasn't working out. Had to get out of the Wife's craft room and back the man cave to get better shots.

The following are shot with daylight filtering through a south facing window at around 11am. Exposure Compensation at -1.3

Fill Flash



Slow Sync Flash



No Flash



From a technical stand point the Slow Sync Flash is the more detailed photo, but I prefer the natural lighting. The fill flash is just bad...ick
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Last edited by warwick.hoy : 05-23-2009 at 12:18 PM.
  #9  
Old 05-23-2009, 12:31 PM
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Considering Alternate Light Sources.

What do you do when it's night time and you are ready to post that updated pedalboard picture....wait until morning?

Not if you have a tripod.

This shot I did at night to include in the Post Your Pedal Board thread.



All I used was a simple wal-mart desk lamp with a 13w CFL. You can almost tell by the shadow of the board (falling in between the edge of the board and the DI [Lake Trout] box) where the lamp was positioned. If the lamp was directly over the pedalboard the shadow wouldn't be so off putting.
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Last edited by warwick.hoy : 05-23-2009 at 12:45 PM.
  #10  
Old 05-23-2009, 12:40 PM
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quality stuff!
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  #11  
Old 05-23-2009, 12:42 PM
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1 question, how to take photos of bands at gigs?, I'm going to a gig tonight and I want to take quality shots!
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