Zeibek Submarine alternative

[johnk_10]

IMO, another alternative preamp for the submarine, that also sounds really good, is the madbean fatpants. it runs on 18V (with it's own included charge pump), and it simulates an echoplex's preamp. it capable of going from clean to a very slight amount of grit and 'body' with the fat control. it's not scooped like the submarine, but it sounds big and fat with a bass.

[johnk_10]

Originally Posted by Dazonbass

That is sweet! Did the trim pots help improve the sound a lot? Or are they just there for when you change the JFET type?

i added the trimpots so any JFET can be be biased to 4.5V. they really don't have anything to do with the gain or tone. they're just for getting the JFET's to operate in their proper range.

[karter2000]

Originally Posted by johnk_10

and here's a pic of the vero pcb that i made for it. i just need to mount it in an enclosure now.

Wow, awesome job again John. Any chance I could get your layout? I built the Renegadrian layout a while back, and I used it for a bit, but didn't like it enough to not rob it for parts .

Thanks!

[Vlad5]

Originally Posted by tlaubs

Just got done building a submarine clone and it sounds great.


Attachment 297708

That looks awesome!
Here is my Submarine Designer with new graphics. I'll etch it soonish, once I find the time.

Originally Posted by johnk_10

here's the page with the schematic. http://www.albertkreuzer.com/preamp_onboard.htm

i built mine to be used as a pedal so only one input buffer is required.

I just changed the 3 way switches and my Sub D is silent when engaged. What did I do wrong? The new switches are on-off-on and have a higher amp/voltage rating...

Anyone have any advice? I'm looking into direct replacements for the switches but it's hard to find voltage specs for the switches online...

Also, anyone have any luck moving SUB to the center position of the right switch?

Thanks!

[boomertech]

Pedals usually run at low currents and voltages, so the switch voltage and current ratings are irrelevant.

The proper type and correct wiring to the switch is the only thing that you should be concerned with.

-Frank

[Vlad5]

Thanks Frank, that's what I figured. Maybe I just wired em backwards... you know, left lug should be the right lug.

[Dazonbass]

John thanks for suggesting to look at the on board bass preamp by Albert Kreuzer:

http://www.albertkreuzer.com/pics/el...nboard_sch.gif

but did you notice that the submarine is almost exactly like it. Once you remove C3a (1nF) and keep SW1 in the position shown it is almost the same curcuit.

This makes me wonder if the Submarine designer has incoporated ideas from the Kreuzer's JFET Bass preamp:

http://www.albertkreuzer.com/preamp.htm.

Need to investigate more.

[Vlad5]

Originally Posted by Dazonbass

John thanks for suggesting to look at the on board bass preamp by Albert Kreuzer:

http://www.albertkreuzer.com/pics/el...nboard_sch.gif

but did you notice that the submarine is almost exactly like it. Once you remove C3a (1nF) and keep SW1 in the position shown it is almost the same curcuit.

This makes me wonder if the Submarine designer has incoporated ideas from the Kreuzer's JFET Bass preamp:

http://www.albertkreuzer.com/preamp.htm.

Need to investigate more.

He did, and gives credit to Kruezer in the tech sheet.

[Dazonbass]

I see what you mean Vlad, just I never realised. Still want to figure out all the extra components on the Designer though.

[karter2000]

Originally Posted by johnk_10

BTW, i tried my submarine build first with the BF245C's but it didn't have much volume so went with 2N5457's. IMO, J201's would also be a good choice, and with either of those, it has a ridiculous amount of volume now.

I just breadboarded the Kreuzer pre, just to see if I liked it enough to do a layout. I agree with John, I think it sounds better than the Sub I built a while back. I tried both 2n5457 and 2n5458s, and while both sounded great, the 2n5457s had more gain and "oomph" to my ears. The 2n5458s were "cleaner" sound if that makes sense. Tinkering with R12/C5 (on Albert's schematic) was interesting, as those control the gain in the circuit. I used a trimmer for R12, and would get clipping if the value was too low (not bad clipping, mind you). Also, I didn't use the gain pots on the front of the circuit, rather a master volume on the end. I found that sounded better, to my ears anyway.

[Dazonbass]

Just was messsing around with the schematic using 5spice and found that the 1nF cap (C3a) in Kreuzer's schematic smooths out the frequency response. I am going to add a switch so that I can choose between Kreuzer's and Os's versions, which will switch R12 between 1.2k with C3a in the ciruit and 300 with C3a not active, respectively.

[Vlad5]

Well... turns out I had the 1 khz switch backwards.

The new switches are nice, more robust! Now that they work, heh. Late night soldering...

Is it at all possible to add a DI out to this design? Hook something up to the output wire, or is it like adding a hole nuther circuit?

Anyway, I'm glad my Sub is working again.

[cybersnyder]

Hmmm, what's this?

[scubaduba]

Where did you find that?

[cybersnyder]

Originally Posted by scubaduba

Where did you find that?

It's on its way to Maryland. A custom build by TB's own johnk_10. I'm stoked.

[My name is Mudd]

Same basic circuit?

[johnk_10]

Originally Posted by My name is Mudd

Same basic circuit?

i used the actual Albert Kreuzer circuit that the Electronix Subs were built on, so I would imagine that it's the same as the Zeibek pedal.

[My name is Mudd]

Can you do a Designer as well?

[johnk_10]

Originally Posted by My name is Mudd

Can you do a Designer as well?

I could if I had the schematic or the pedal but I don't have either.

[enjoi1018]

!!!

This is getting interesting.....