Can i shield with this tape?

thejrace · #1 10-07-2009, 09:22 PM

Found this tape in my basement among the tools area. Looks like aluminum tape. Would this help quiet down my bass with a shielding?

On another note, how would i ground the control cavity?

deekay911 · #2 10-07-2009, 09:31 PM

Not sure how aluminium would work - I think copper is better because it is a more efficient conductor.

**line6man** · #3 10-07-2009, 09:32 PM

Aluminum tape works fine. Just about anything conductive works fine.
The problem is, solder does not stick to aluminum. You need to find a way to make sure that every piece is connected together to maintain continuity throughout the entire cavity.

What do you mean by "group" the control cavity?

Craig_S · #4 10-07-2009, 09:36 PM

Aluminum will work. I've seen it in production basses before. Just be sure your ground connection is good.

Bassamatic · #5 10-07-2009, 09:37 PM

It is possible that this could provide some shielding. HOWEVER:
1. I doubt that the adhesive is conductive, so each little pieces has to be electrically connected to every other piece. The copper foil from Stew-Mac, for instance, has conductive adhesive so it becomes all one big piece.
2. If it is aluminum - you can't solder it to make it one piece or to connect the cavity pieces to ground.

Please understand - shielding works by conducting EMI to ground, not by physically blocking it.

3. There is no way to know how thick it is or the conductivity.

In short - probably NOT worth the effort.

Don't understand your comment about "grouping" the control cavity - sorry!

Revvv · #6 10-07-2009, 09:38 PM

I use the same tape you have. It's fine.

thejrace · #7 10-07-2009, 09:46 PM

thanks for the help. I meant ground, just had a mental lapse. I'm going to start taping it up now. If i tape one on top the other how will i know thats it conductive?

Revv,

how do you ground it and/or make sure they are all connected when your finished tapping up the cavity?

Quote:

Originally Posted by line6man

Aluminum tape works fine. Just about anything conductive works fine.
The problem is, solder does not stick to aluminum. You need to find a way to make sure that every piece is connected together to maintain continuity throughout the entire cavity.

How would you recommend i maintain continuity?

Revvv · #8 10-07-2009, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thejrace

thanks for the help. I meant ground, just had a mental lapse. I'm going to start taping it up now. If i tape one on top the other how will i know thats it conductive?

Revv,

how do you ground it and/or make sure they are all connected when your finished tapping up the cavity?

How would you recommend i maintain continuity?

I have always grounded my instruments using the bridge.

thejrace · #9 10-07-2009, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Revvv

I have always grounded my instruments using the bridge.

1st time doing this, so dont quite understand hwo that works

. How do you ground it with the bridge? I just finished taping it up and its still noisy, so im guessing its the grounding that is missing. Appreciate the help man.

dmusic148 · #10 10-07-2009, 10:08 PM

Actually, you CAN solder it- I've done it. Takes a little longer to flow out, but it will.
Easier to just get a roll of the copper stuff from StewMac.

**line6man** · #11 10-07-2009, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thejrace

If i tape one on top the other how will i know thats it conductive?

Check for continuity with an ohm meter.
I am fairly sure that the adhesive on that tape is not conductive though...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Revvv

I have always grounded my instruments using the bridge.

What are you talking about?
The bridge ground should connect to either the shielding, or the nearest ground point. (The back of the volume pot is most common.)
The bridge ground has absolutely nothing to do with the shielding work.

Revvv · #12 10-07-2009, 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by line6man

Check for continuity with an ohm meter.
I am fairly sure that the adhesive on that tape is not conductive though...

What are you talking about?
The bridge ground should connect to either the shielding, or the nearest ground point. (The back of the volume pot is most common.)
The bridge ground has absolutely nothing to do with the shielding work.

Sorry, I wasn't thinking. You are exactly right. I gave terrible info.

bassbenj · #13 10-07-2009, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thejrace

thanks for the help. I meant ground, just had a mental lapse. I'm going to start taping it up now. If i tape one on top the other how will i know that it is conductive?

How would you recommend i maintain continuity?

The way to test for continuity is to use an ohm meter. Any old radio shack piece of crap will do. Harbor Freight has nice Chinese meters for a couple of bucks!

Here's the deal with aluminum. Not only can't you solder to it, but often it has been anodized for protection. That coating is an insulator! And it's even worse. Pure aluminum is easily oxidized in air. And that aluminum oxide is an insulator. (it's what the "anodizing" coating is).

So here's the bottom line. If you choose to ignore everyone's experience and advice because you found a free roll of aluminum tape, here's how to make it work:

First use only ONE piece of tape to do all the shielding you want to do in the instrument. This way you don't have to worry about connecting two pieces of aluminum together. Just mash it and fold it and tuck it in while keeping it one piece. Run it around everywhere and then back to where you started. only THERE will you have both ends to connect to. And finally the RIGHT way to connect to the aluminum that will bite through any insulating coating is to use a couple of wood screws and some lock washers of the type "external sems" These have "teeth" that stick out from a ring that will bite the foil. Hint: put screws in a direction where there is plenty of wood. You don't want the other end coming out the front of the bass!

There are even ground lugs that have a lock washer built in and a place to solder your ground wire to as well. Use several screws just to be sure. Test your connections between the jack body and the foil with your ohm meter for proof it's working. And voila. You made it work!

On the other hand copper foil solders like a dream. Stew Mac foil has conductive glue so multiple pieces are connected or even if you are cheap, go to Hobby Lobby and get some copper foil and some spray glue. It's what I do. The lock washer-aluminum foil can still corrode with age. Soldered copper will last as long as any foil is left.

Your call.

dmusic148 · #14 10-07-2009, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bassbenj

Here's the deal with aluminum. Not only can't you solder to it, but often it has been anodized for protection.

Yeah, you can. I just did it, with a piece of aluminum duct tape. Works fine in spite of the fact that it can't!

bassbenj · #15 10-08-2009, 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmusic148

Yeah, you can. I just did it, with a piece of aluminum duct tape. Works fine in spite of the fact that it can't!

Did you use special aluminum solder? That can work. If not did you check with a meter to make sure there is a connection to the foil? Some tape has a plastic coating that can act like glue to a solder blob but is not really "soldered" to the metal. Did you pry on the solder to make sure it won't simply pull off because it's only stuck not really soldered? I do have aluminum solder that works. I got it from some sales huckster at a festival who was soldering coke cans etc. with it. Yeah. THAT stuff will work. Of course then you still have the problem of connecting copper wires to the aluminum. Hence the lock washer screw thing.

So yeah, "can't" isn't totally correct, but you'd better make sure you've really soldered it. A meter is the true test.

Medford Bassman · #16 10-08-2009, 08:33 PM

i have a question. I did order some copper tape from Stew Mac with conductive adhesive. Does that mean as long as I have all the pieces connected I won't need to solder?

Sorry, new at this shielding thing. I just bought an SX and it hums and buzzes like crazy when I let go of the strings

**line6man** · #17 10-08-2009, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Medford Bassman

i have a question. I did order some copper tape from Stew Mac with conductive adhesive. Does that mean as long as I have all the pieces connected I won't need to solder?

Sorry, new at this shielding thing. I just bought an SX and it hums and buzzes like crazy when I let go of the strings

Since the adhesive is conductive, there is no need to solder the pieces together. Double check to make sure everything is connected properly though with your ohm meter though.

You do still need to ground the shielding though. You'll probably have to solder down a ground wire.

Medford Bassman · #18 10-08-2009, 09:26 PM

Thanks for the help. where would i solder what to what?

Told you i was new at this thing

**line6man** · #19 10-08-2009, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Medford Bassman

Thanks for the help. where would i solder what to what?

Told you i was new at this thing

Solder a ground wire from the back of the volume pot to any place on the shielding.

Actually, if you extend a little lip up over the top for the control plate to screw down over, grounding is not necessary, but I find it better to ground with a wire, because that way everything stays grounded if you need to remove the control plate to troubleshoot your wiring.

Also, you obviously need to run ground wires from the pickup cavities into the control cavity to ground them. Solder a wire to the bottom of the pickup cavity, run it through the pickup wire channel, and then solder the other end to any place on the control cavity's shielding.

Medford Bassman · #20 10-08-2009, 10:55 PM

thank you very much. i appreciate the help.