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  #1  
Old 02-01-2011, 04:00 PM
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Cheapest Potentiometer?

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I'm curious, what is the cheapest "quality" potentiometer that I can buy?

I was looking at the "economy"pots at guitar parts resource.

I was also considering mini pots as well.

Are there any problems with these economy or mini pots?
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  #2  
Old 02-01-2011, 04:05 PM
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Try www.mouser.com , it's where I get all the parts for my projects.
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  #3  
Old 02-01-2011, 06:24 PM
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buy the best pots you can afford. Cheap ones have thinner carbon traces....will wear out faster, likely to become scratchy with age.
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Old 02-01-2011, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by smoov View Post
buy the best pots you can afford. Cheap ones have thinner carbon traces....will wear out faster, likely to become scratchy with age.
yeah.

dont buy cheap pots. they make a world of difference.
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  #5  
Old 02-01-2011, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by smoov View Post
buy the best pots you can afford. Cheap ones have thinner carbon traces....will wear out faster, likely to become scratchy with age.
i went ahead and ordered some CTS pots. didn't wanna splurge but after talking to Chef I realized that I didn't need to go cheap on electronics stuff.

sorry for waiting thread space!
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  #6  
Old 02-01-2011, 06:39 PM
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Even if they were $10 a pop that's pretty cheap. I understand some people are on a tight budget but really, I'm just thankful that pots are as cheap as they are.
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  #7  
Old 02-01-2011, 06:43 PM
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Even if they were $10 a pop that's pretty cheap. I understand some people are on a tight budget but really, I'm just thankful that pots are as cheap as they are.
i know what you mean, when you're fixing multiple basses it adds up.
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  #8  
Old 02-01-2011, 06:43 PM
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I use Bourns pots. Better than CTS, priced like the cheapies

http://www.tubesandmore.com/scripts/...EE03=03_KNURLA
  #9  
Old 02-01-2011, 06:58 PM
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Guitar Electronics™ has some great kits for bass and guitar. Great stuff, totally decent price. I got a kit with 2 CTS high precision pots, switchcraft jack, and 2 orange drop caps (.022 & .047) for $22. I'm dropping it into a severely low budget bass. I figured that a cheap bass still deserves better than the cheapest pots.
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  #10  
Old 02-01-2011, 07:02 PM
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I bought some CTS 250K mini-pots from Bass Parts Resource and just installed them in my Squier VM 70's P-bass. Also installed a Sprague 225P .047 Orange Drop cap, Switchcraft jack, and used cloth covered silver plated copper wire to hook it all up with and the bass, even with the stock pups sounds incredible now. The only thing I didn't like about the pots at first was they were split-shaft. I would have preferred solid shaft pots but they weren't available there. The price was right, the quality was right on and I couldn't be happier. Can't wait to gig that bass on Thursday night.
Check it out....they have 500K's as well.... )-(

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  #11  
Old 02-01-2011, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mmbongo View Post
I use Bourns pots. Better than CTS, priced like the cheapies

http://www.tubesandmore.com/scripts/...EE03=03_KNURLA
How are they "better than CTS"? Just wondering.
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  #12  
Old 02-02-2011, 08:14 AM
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I've used Alpha and CTS pots in the past, no issue with either!
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  #13  
Old 02-02-2011, 08:44 AM
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How are they "better than CTS"? Just wondering.
Less friction, easier to solder, tighter tolerance.
  #14  
Old 02-02-2011, 09:39 AM
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I'm all about #3. #1, with CTS, I have found to be highly variable. #2... how?? Are the lugs tinned?

I wish Bourns made 300K pots with solid shafts, all I can track down are 250K and 500K. I'm making some passive wiring harnesses for Rickenbackers lately and those either use a 250K-V/500K-T setup, or more recently a 330K resistance across the board, which I prefer.
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It quite simple.
  #15  
Old 02-02-2011, 03:16 PM
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Just add a 750k resistor between the outer lugs and you've got a 300k pot..
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Old 02-02-2011, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cassius987 View Post
I'm all about #3. #1, with CTS, I have found to be highly variable. #2... how?? Are the lugs tinned?

I wish Bourns made 300K pots with solid shafts, all I can track down are 250K and 500K. I'm making some passive wiring harnesses for Rickenbackers lately and those either use a 250K-V/500K-T setup, or more recently a 330K resistance across the board, which I prefer.
I say easier to solder because the backs are flat, and they grind them down so it's pure metal. Plus the lugs are spaced farther apart. It's not a huge deal, I'm fine with CTS as well but I'd rather have Bourns if possible.
  #17  
Old 02-02-2011, 06:34 PM
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http://www.gpdusa.com/Electronics-Potentiometers.html
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