DIY cables -- 3 questions

[Wm. E. Evans]

I recently discovered Parts Express and thought that I might get some bulk supplies and roll my own cables for future needs. I had three questions about this process...

1) Connectors: gold vs. nickel -- I'm guessing gold connectors would be less prone to oxidation but wear more quickly as it is a softer metal and that the actual conductivity difference is negligible.

Apart from actual engineering of the plug for stress relief, anything else to consider?

2) Cable: name brand vs. generic -- Since copper is copper, I'm assuming that Mogami or Canare are considered superior because of the insulation or something, is this correct?

3) Solder: what composition works best?

Thanks!

-Bill

[OrionManMatt]

1) No gold; go for nickel. More likely to be compatible with your contacts.
2) You're dealing with an unbalanced run -- just keep your runs short. There is much debate as to whether or not using the mentioned or similar cables is worth the extra money but I say just go for the ProCo 55% 100ft spool that PE offers.
3) I suggest 60/40 because it's a little harder.

EDIT:
Heat shrink tubing at the connector:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=080-672
or, like, this:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=092-106

[Fretlessboy]

I always use a silver core computer solder. It seams to grab/fill gaps and hold with much less product.

[Wm. E. Evans]

Originally Posted by OrionManMatt

1) No gold; go for nickel. More likely to be compatible with your contacts.

Is there a time when gold plugs would be appropriate, then, for instance with XLR cables or something? Or is it in general a marketing gimmick?

[scowboy]

Couple of comments.

I make all my cables because I cannot pay what these guys ask for this stuff especially the run of the mill quality stuff.

I have found in all cases that Neutrik connectors are far superior to anything on the market unless you need a right-angle 1/4" connector then get whatever you like. For whatever reason they have not quite figured that out.

Gold, nickel, I have had great luck with all of them and my stuff spends some around in San Francisco bay.

Mogami and Canare are both great brands that I have used extensively and probably will not change unless I go for some hi-end boutique cable (like Analysis Plus). When you get to the high-end stuff you are paying largely for the cable itself so I personally would just get them pre terminated.

Good luck to you. Soldering is not hard it just takes a tiny bit of instruction, patience and it helps to be a tad A/R. I am a bit strange I find it relaxing.

[Wm. E. Evans]

Originally Posted by scowboy

...unless I go for some hi-end boutique cable (like Analysis Plus).

Holy flying baby feces! From the Analysis Plus web site...

#

YELLOW FLEX OVAL
10ft 15ft 20ft 30ft addtl. ft.
Terminated with standard plug $89 $129 $169 $249 $8
Terminated with Silent or AP plug $119 $159 $199 $279 $8
Add Yellow, Orange, Black, Red, or Purple Mesh to any cable for $1.00 / foot

#

I couldn't help but notice that they apparently use the Neutrik nickel terminators for these cables as the "standard" plug...

Mogami W2524 at $0.73/foot is looking cheap now...

[OrionManMatt]

Originally Posted by Wm. E. Evans

Is there a time when gold plugs would be appropriate, then, for instance with XLR cables or something? Or is it in general a marketing gimmick?

When you have gold jacks.

...or a particularly corrosive environment, in which case gold jacks are the order of the day, too. Gold takes longer to corrode, but it is softer, so it wears faster under heavy use/abuse.

Or is it in general a marketing gimmick?

I guess one might consider it a marketing gimmick only to the extent that it's typically not advertised when one might be preferred over the other.... It's certainly, in my opinion, far less of a marketing gimmick than other companies whose names will go unmentioned.

Again, you're dealing with an unbalanced signal -- just keep your cable lengths reasonable, find a company that makes a consistent, quality product and use it, and don't cold solder.

Good eye on spotting their use of Neutrik connectors; that should tell you something.

[Wm. E. Evans]

Originally Posted by OrionManMatt

...or a particularly corrosive environment, in which case gold jacks are the order of the day, too. Gold takes longer to corrode, but it is softer, so it wears faster under heavy use/abuse.

OK, that's what I thought. I'll keep that in mind for my next cruise ship gig.

*Please note: I don't actually play cruise ship gigs, I was just suggesting this as a corrosive environment where gold contacts might be appropriate.*

[livingstone]

Originally Posted by Wm. E. Evans

...3) Solder: what composition works best?...

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=093-586

This stuff is real nice to work with.

[OrionManMatt]

Originally Posted by livingstone

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=093-586

This stuff is real nice to work with.

Yup. So is this:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=370-038

[OrionManMatt]

Originally Posted by Wm. E. Evans

OK, that's what I thought. I'll keep that in mind for my next cruise ship gig.

Nice.

[funkboy5]

Try some George L's. They work like a charm, easy to assemble and repair no solder required and sound great. Hope this helps.

[Wm. E. Evans]

Originally Posted by OrionManMatt

Nice.

...not that I actually AM playing any cruise ship gigs in the near future...

...or plan to play any cruise ship gigs, ever...

...I am playing a nice charity banquet tonight, though.

[Wm. E. Evans]

Originally Posted by funkboy5

Try some George L's. They work like a charm, easy to assemble and repair no solder required and sound great. Hope this helps.

Eh, I own the soldering iron already... Thanks for the input, though. Plus, I don't think George L's does XLRs.

[PilbaraBass]

the important thing to remember is to use low capacitance cable (< 100 pF/m) and keep the runs to 3m or less. If you require a longer run then you really should consider an active system, IMO, or at least a high-quality cable.

heat shrink the connector is a great suggestion for longevity.

I suggest doing the heat shrink OVER the metal barrel and strain relief (after you've assempled and tested the cable. This way you can repair your cable readily, if need be.

I am building my own cables because I can make a cable for $6 (+$2 / m additional) and I can buy them for $20 - $30 minimum

edit: the same approach applies to XLR only make sure that you use 2-core shielded cable vs. single (I actually use 2-core shielded for both just that I connect the white and red together on the unbalanced leads).

[broughton.22]

Originally Posted by OrionManMatt

2) You're dealing with an unbalanced run -- just keep your runs short. There is much debate as to whether or not using the mentioned or similar cables is worth the extra money but I say just go for the ProCo 55% 100ft spool that PE offers.

How much of a difference is the 90% shielding going to make from the 55%?

[OrionManMatt]

Originally Posted by broughton.22

How much of a difference is the 90% shielding going to make from the 55%?

About $15.90.


Actually, thanks for mentioning that. Go 90%. I have no idea why I typed otherwise....

[broughton.22]

Originally Posted by OrionManMatt

About $15.90.


Actually, thanks for mentioning that. Go 90%. I have no idea why I typed otherwise....

Sorry, I meant as far as noise shielding, not price-wise. Is the 35% noticable?

[seanm]

The gold jacks are coated so they last longer. So really, you are going through the coating, not the gold.

Originally Posted by PilbaraBass

the important thing to remember is to use low capacitance cable (< 100 pF/m) and keep the runs to 3m or less. If you require a longer run then you really should consider an active system, IMO, or at least a high-quality cable.

Where does the 3m come from? I generally use 20' (6m) cables of good quality. A 3m cable would be fairly useless to me live.

[Wm. E. Evans]

Originally Posted by PilbaraBass

the important thing to remember is to use low capacitance cable (< 100 pF/m) and keep the runs to 3m or less. If you require a longer run then you really should consider an active system, IMO, or at least a high-quality cable.

I run an 18v active system on my main bass, and I generally play cramped stages, so run lengths aren't an issue.

By high-quality cable, do you mean more like Canare GS-6 or Analysis Plus?