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02-05-2013, 08:59 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Italy | | Quote:
Originally Posted by delta7fred 
You can measure the components on their leads on top or on the solder connections underneath. The results should be exactly the same as long as you get a good connection with your probes.
| Odd, i tried testing some resistors but i don't get a reading. |
02-05-2013, 11:23 AM
| | Registered User
Endorsing Artist: J.C. Basses | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Phoenix, Arizona 85029 | | | Do you have the DMM set to the right order of magnitude?
For example, mine has options for 20 ohm, 200 ohm, 2k ohm, 20k ohm, etc. If you set it to 20 ohm, for example, and try to measure a 150k resistor, the display doesn't have enough digits and will just show 0.
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Originally Posted by McThumpenstein I don't think the wife would buy the "I need to take off this knob and put a whole new bass under it" story. | |
02-05-2013, 11:33 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: NW Mass/SW VT | | | ...and the reading you get in-circuit will be affected by the rest of the connections, so it may not resemble the resistance of the resistor in isolation.
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02-05-2013, 01:22 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Italy | | Quote:
Originally Posted by FunkMetalBass Do you have the DMM set to the right order of magnitude?
For example, mine has options for 20 ohm, 200 ohm, 2k ohm, 20k ohm, etc. If you set it to 20 ohm, for example, and try to measure a 150k resistor, the display doesn't have enough digits and will just show 0. | Yes it might be this, i left it into continuity/20K mode. |
02-07-2013, 02:39 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Italy | | | Good news! It turns out the problem might be in the battery connection, since i tried plugging the circuit in without the battery and it "works" the same, as in some dry signal is going through. There are still some issues because it only works if i keep my finger on the ground, though not always which might mean there's some trouble with the wires' connections on the volume pot. I'll be out of town for 3 days, i'll check everything when i come back. |
02-07-2013, 03:14 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Yorkshire, England, UK | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Passinwind Where did the one in Post #130 come from though? I downloaded QUCS just to double check if we were on the same page...doesn't seem so!  I already have yours worked up too though. | Sorry Charlie I somehow missed your post.
That was another 3 band that I threw together in a hurry missing out all the biasing circuitry (I hate 9v powered electronics anyway) and just changed the values around to suit the MM version. Like I say it may have errors in it.
I suspect that there is a bug in QUCS or (something I was missing in the schematic) as the first version (that I have now removed) would only function on the Treble pot. The version in post #137 worked fine for me but apparently not for FunkMetalBass (only the bass works).
Oh the joys of running Linux, but I still wouldn't go back to Windows if you paid me.
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02-07-2013, 03:31 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Yorkshire, England, UK | | Quote:
Originally Posted by eukatheude Good news! It turns out the problem might be in the battery connection, since i tried plugging the circuit in without the battery and it "works" the same, as in some dry signal is going through. There are still some issues because it only works if i keep my finger on the ground, though not always which might mean there's some trouble with the wires' connections on the volume pot. I'll be out of town for 3 days, i'll check everything when i come back. | From post #105 Quote:
Fit all the components, (but don't plug the IC in yet) check and double check that they are in the correct places, wired correctly and the correct way round where applicable.
Apply power and check for 9v between the IC socket pins 4 (black lead) and 8 (red). check for about 4.5V between pins 4 (black) and 5 (red). This can be done before the pots are wired.
| It may seem like a lot of messing about checking that everything is ok with the power supply before plugging in the IC but IMO it is worth it. YMMV of course. (I have been building stuff since the mid the '60s and still make mistakes - regularly.)
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02-07-2013, 08:52 PM
| | Registered User
Endorsing Artist: J.C. Basses | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Phoenix, Arizona 85029 | | Quote:
Originally Posted by delta7fred Sorry Charlie I somehow missed your post.
That was another 3 band that I threw together in a hurry missing out all the biasing circuitry (I hate 9v powered electronics anyway) and just changed the values around to suit the MM version. Like I say it may have errors in it.
I suspect that there is a bug in QUCS or (something I was missing in the schematic) as the first version (that I have now removed) would only function on the Treble pot. The version in post #137 worked fine for me but apparently not for FunkMetalBass (only the bass works).
Oh the joys of running Linux, but I still wouldn't go back to Windows if you paid me. | As an update, I did get all of the pots working once I set them to "pos" instead of a fixed position, per your suggestion.
__________________ Quote:
Originally Posted by McThumpenstein I don't think the wife would buy the "I need to take off this knob and put a whole new bass under it" story. | |
02-10-2013, 05:39 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Italy | | Quote:
Originally Posted by delta7fred From post #105
It may seem like a lot of messing about checking that everything is ok with the power supply before plugging in the IC but IMO it is worth it. YMMV of course. (I have been building stuff since the mid the '60s and still make mistakes - regularly.) | You're right, i should have done that in the first place. Anyway, i'm back. Later i'll test and post the results. |
02-10-2013, 11:16 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Italy | | | Ok. I tried checking with the meter set to 20 DCV. I get 6.52 between 4 and 8, and -3.80 between 4-5. I have no idea what this means though. |
02-10-2013, 01:03 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Yorkshire, England, UK | | Quote:
Originally Posted by eukatheude Ok. I tried checking with the meter set to 20 DCV. I get 6.52 between 4 and 8, and -3.80 between 4-5. I have no idea what this means though. | Pins 4 and 8 (Black lead on 4, red on 8) are the power supply pins into the IC, they should be about 9v so it sounds like your battery is low.
With the black lead on 4 and the red lead on 5 it should be about 4.5, you must have swapped the leads to get -3.8v between 4 and 5. The bias voltage divider is wired correctly.
Pin 5 is one of the inputs to the opamp which needs to be fed with about half the supply voltage for the opamp to work correctly.
(most) Opamps are designed to run on 30v so 9v is pretty low, 6.5V may be just too low for it to work correctly.
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02-10-2013, 05:15 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Italy | | | Tried with another battery, i get 9.34 and 5.8 |
02-11-2013, 03:13 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Yorkshire, England, UK | | Quote:
Originally Posted by eukatheude Tried with another battery, i get 9.34 and 5.8 | Good. Does it work when you put the IC in?
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02-11-2013, 08:17 AM
| | | | Is this based off of that '97 Stingray 5 preamp? That one is really a Sterling, not Stingray preamp, right? |
02-11-2013, 10:15 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Italy | | Quote:
Originally Posted by delta7fred Good. Does it work when you put the IC in? | Nope. I should mention it works the same wheter the battery is plugged or not, and i get some signal to go to the amp only if i touch the volume pot, though it is kinda strange as it's hard to pinpoint exactly where i have to touch it. It seems like a bad connection. |
02-11-2013, 12:51 PM
|  | DiCosimo Audio | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Vero Beach, Florida | | Quote:
Originally Posted by iunno Is this based off of that '97 Stingray 5 preamp? That one is really a Sterling, not Stingray preamp, right? | It's definitely a Stingray Preamp. This is the official wiring diagram I used: 
Looks like the year on it is '89.
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03-07-2013, 07:10 AM
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Endorsing Artist: J.C. Basses | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Phoenix, Arizona 85029 | | | What would it take to run this thing at 12V instead of 9?
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Originally Posted by McThumpenstein I don't think the wife would buy the "I need to take off this knob and put a whole new bass under it" story. | |
03-07-2013, 09:03 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Buckley AFB, CO. | | Quote:
Originally Posted by FunkMetalBass What would it take to run this thing at 12V instead of 9? | A 12VDC adaptor. I run mine on 12. TL0XX can be run from 5 to 15, according to documentation.
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Originally Posted by JimmyM I believe you're talking about Darcy, not Nicole. | |
03-07-2013, 10:12 PM
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Endorsing Artist: J.C. Basses | | Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Phoenix, Arizona 85029 | | Quote:
Originally Posted by EricssonB A 12VDC adaptor. I run mine on 12. TL0XX can be run from 5 to 15, according to documentation. | Is it all the way up to 15? That makes life far too easy. I thought they had a 10V max and I was curious as to whether or not I'd have to build some sort of voltage divider for it.
Thanks!
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Originally Posted by McThumpenstein I don't think the wife would buy the "I need to take off this knob and put a whole new bass under it" story. | |
03-08-2013, 02:37 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Yorkshire, England, UK | | Quote:
Originally Posted by FunkMetalBass What would it take to run this thing at 12V instead of 9? | The opamps are good for up to 30V. If you are going to run on higher than 9v make sure that the electrolytic caps are suitably rated.
I would go for 16v caps for 9v supply, 25v caps if you are using up to about 18v, 63v for anything between 18v and 30v.
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