Dual Concentric Volume for G&L L-2000 - Has anyone done this?

[fourstringbliss]

Check out this TB thread and this website for details about this wiring mod.

[SGD Lutherie]

Originally Posted by fourstringbliss

The diagram does work because I've done it before. I think I'll stick with three switches.

OK, but now you have three switches and less combinations than with the two switches.

You can only put BOTH pickups in series or parallel. With the two switches you can have one parallel and one series. Parallel often works better than single coil.

[fourstringbliss]

Originally Posted by SGD Lutherie

That switch layout is not going to get you what you want, i.e., series bridge/single neck. I would rather have the functionality than worry about filling holes. Maybe the third switch can switch between two different cap values for the treble cut tone control.

Either that or a "producer switch."

Sorry, I misread your words. That diagram won't give me series bridge/single neck, but if I split both switches so that each has a series/parallel and an inner/parallel/outer switch I'd be able to do it.

[SGD Lutherie]

Originally Posted by fourstringbliss

Sorry, I misread your words. That diagram won't give me series bridge/single neck, but if I split both switches so that each has a series/parallel and an inner/parallel/outer switch I'd be able to do it.

As I said, you can put both pickups in parallel. You can't put one in parallel and one in series. Parallel and single coil sound very similar, but parallel doesn't hum.

I found with my bass, I often put the neck pickup in parallel with the bridge in series, but I didn't use one in single coil mode as much. I found the parallel setting blended better.

But you can do it which every way you like. I was just showing that with two on-on-on switches, you get three setting on each pickup separately. You are using three switches and getting less combinations. You could be using the third switch to get more options.

But what ever works for you is what you should use. I like to do more with less switches.

[fourstringbliss]

Originally Posted by SGD Lutherie

As I said, you can put both pickups in parallel. You can't put one in parallel and one in series. Parallel and single coil sound very similar, but parallel doesn't hum.

I found with my bass, I often put the neck pickup in parallel with the bridge in series, but I didn't use one in single coil mode as much. I found the parallel setting blended better.

But you can do it which every way you like. I was just showing that with two on-on-on switches, you get three setting on each pickup separately. You are using three switches and getting less combinations. You could be using the third switch to get more options.

But what ever works for you is what you should use. I like to do more with less switches.

If I split both switches I could have each pickup in series, parallel, inner coil, or outer coil separately from each other, but it means I'd need four switches and an additional hole. I'm not sure if the extra options would make it worth the extra hole. In the past I've found that I use the single coil options more than series.

[SGD Lutherie]

Originally Posted by fourstringbliss

If I split both switches I could have each pickup in series, parallel, inner coil, or outer coil separately from each other, but it means I'd need four switches and an additional hole. I'm not sure if the extra options would make it worth the extra hole. In the past I've found that I use the single coil options more than series.

No, you use two on-on-on switches, and each switch will give you series, parallel, and single coil for each pickup. That's 9 different combinations when both pickups are on. You don't need inner or outer coils, that's useless IMO. Then use the third switch to switch tone caps. That will give far more variation in tone than inner and outer coils. Try a .02µF cap for a cool tone.

[fourstringbliss]

Originally Posted by SGD Lutherie

No, you use two on-on-on switches, and each switch will give you series, parallel, and single coil for each pickup. That's 9 different combinations when both pickups are on. You don't need inner or outer coils, that's useless IMO. Then use the third switch to switch tone caps. That will give far more variation in tone than inner and outer coils. Try a .02µF cap for a cool tone.

How would I wire the tone cap switch? Could I use an on/on/on tone cap switch with three different caps?

[SGD Lutherie]

Originally Posted by fourstringbliss

How would I wire the tone cap switch? Could I use an on/on/on tone cap switch with three different caps?

No, you would use a SPST to switch between two caps.

[fourstringbliss]

Originally Posted by SGD Lutherie

No, you would use a SPST to switch between two caps.

What kind of caps and how would I wire it all up?

[fourstringbliss]

I completely forgot about using push/pull pots! So, I'm going to split both switches putting both inner/parallel/outer switches and the series/parallel switch for the neck pup in the three open switch holes. The series/parallel switch for the bridge pickup will be a 500k push/pull switch I'll use to replace the 250k treble pot. No extra holes and I'll have all the tone options I could ask for!

[4848277]

Wow! This thread really took off!

I was thinking of doing the same thing to my L-2000 as the next project. It would involve a push/pull pot where the tone (treble) control resides, and all other switches would retain their current function. I'll post a modified schematic later. Hopefully, there's enough room for a push/pull pot, otherwise I'll have to remove the stock preamp and go with the other idea. (No biggy. It's not a "ground-breaking" preamp anyway) The control cavity of an L-2000 is an awfully crowded place!

The other idea was to remove the preamp and replace it's switch with a DPDT (on/on) switch wired as I would've wired the switch on the push/pull pot.

BTW, I'm not interested in coil splitting. I don't like single coil hum. I just want the ability to put the pickups in series with each other.

More later.

Cheers!

[4848277]

Here's the modified schematic of my bass with a series/parallel switch using a push/pull pot added at the location of the tone pot...



And here's the schematic for doing the same with the on-board preamp removed...



** I should mention once again that these schematics DON'T include coil splitting as I'm not interested in the single coil sound. **

If you use the 2nd diagram, you can still use a push/pull pot for the switch, but you'll have an extra switch left over not in use. (Unless you can think of a practical use for it...?) Otherwise, you can leave the stock tone pot and swap that switch out for a DPDT (on/on) to use for the series/parallel switch. One whose toggle matches the other two switches, of course.

I haven't done this yet because I currently don't have the parts, and I haven't made up my mind whether I want to keep the 250K value for the tone pot, or use a 500K pot instead. I might change that .047μF capacitor too. This project isn't really a priority for me right now either.

Anyway, I hope this helps.

Cheers!

[fourstringbliss]

Originally Posted by 4848277

Here's the modified schematic of my bass with a series/parallel switch using a push/pull pot added at the location of the tone pot...



And here's the schematic for doing the same with the on-board preamp removed...



** I should mention once again that these schematics DON'T include coil splitting as I'm not interested in the single coil sound. **

If you use the 2nd diagram, you can still use a push/pull pot for the switch, but you'll have an extra switch left over not in use. (Unless you can think of a practical use for it...?) Otherwise, you can leave the stock tone pot and swap that switch out for a DPDT (on/on) to use for the series/parallel switch. One whose toggle matches the other two switches, of course.

I haven't done this yet because I currently don't have the parts, and I haven't made up my mind whether I want to keep the 250K value for the tone pot, or use a 500K pot instead. I might change that .047μF capacitor too. This project isn't really a priority for me right now either.

Anyway, I hope this helps.

Cheers!

Thanks for the diagram! I'm going to use the one I posted earlier in this thread and split up both switches so that each pickup has a separate series/parallel switch and inner coil/parallel/outer coil switch. I might seem like overkill, but I was playing this last weekend with the neck pup soloed in series and it would have been good to have the rear bridge coil on as well to give more treble and clarity. I'm also installing resistors in place of the series setting jump wires which should eliminate the parallel to series volume jump.

[4848277]

Ahhhh... OK. That is a good idea making the series/parallel switches separate for each pickup. The diagram (for me) would look almost the same too...



Can you detect the difference? (the absence of a certain dashed line)

Obviously, I'd be removing the preamp, replacing two switches, and swapping the regular tone control for a push/pull pot to implement the series/parallel function between the two pickups.

Anyway, good luck with your modification.

Cheers!

[fourstringbliss]

Originally Posted by 4848277

Ahhhh... OK. That is a good idea making the series/parallel switches separate for each pickup. The diagram (for me) would look almost the same too...

Can you detect the difference? (a certain dashed line)

Obviously, I'd be removing the preamp, replacing two switches, and swapping the regular tone control for a push/pull pot to implement the series/parallel function between the two pickups.

Anyway, good luck with your modification.

Cheers!

For me it made all the difference when I realized that I could replace the pickup selector switch with dual volumes, and use a push/pull pot for one of the series.parallel switches. I'll end up having four switches but the overall look is only different in the dual volumes. Are you planning on doing anything about the series volume jump? If you need a couple of resistors I'd be happy to share - I bought some on ebay but the smallest quantity I could find was 25!

Where did you find a 1 meg push/pull pot?

[SGD Lutherie]

Originally Posted by fourstringbliss

If you need a couple of resistors I'd be happy to share - I bought some on ebay but the smallest quantity I could find was 25!

Aren't there any RadioShacks near you?

[fourstringbliss]

Originally Posted by SGD Lutherie

Aren't there any RadioShacks near you?

Yup, but they didn't stock the resistor that I needed. The guy who figured this series setting mod tried a bunch of resistors and found one particular kind - 47K ohm 1/8th watt resistors. Here's the thread he started about it on Bassesbyleo.com.

I got the resistors I needed shipped to me for around $5. I know there are some electronics shops around but I could spend more in driving there to get a few resistors than I did to have a bunch of them mailed to me. Now I have some to share with people who might want to modify the series setting on their L2xxx basses.

[SGD Lutherie]

Originally Posted by fourstringbliss

Yup, but they didn't stock the resistor that I needed. The guy who figured this series setting mod tried a bunch of resistors and found one particular kind - 47K ohm 1/8th watt resistors.

47K Ohm 1/4-Watt Carbon Film Resistor (5-Pack) - RadioShack.com

You don't ned 1/8th watt resistors. 1/4 watt are plenty small.

[4848277]

Originally Posted by fourstringbliss

For me it made all the difference when I realized that I could replace the pickup selector switch with dual volumes, and use a push/pull pot for one of the series.parallel switches. I'll end up having four switches but the overall look is only different in the dual volumes. Are you planning on doing anything about the series volume jump? If you need a couple of resistors I'd be happy to share - I bought some on ebay but the smallest quantity I could find was 25!

Where did you find a 1 meg push/pull pot?

Heya fourstringbliss. I forgot that you mentioned in a previous post that you removed the pickup selector switch and replaced it with a second volume knob. I prefer the look of concentric knobs, and I wanted to keep the selector switch. I didn't (and still don't) want to drill any extra holes in the bass, and I wanted to be able to restore it to it's original state if I wanted. To each their own.

I'm not planning on doing anything about the series volume jump. That's one of the beauties of it!

I didn't find a 1 meg push/pull pot. Besides, they don't exist in a reverse audio taper. (At least I couldn't find one when I searched online.)
On an L-2000, the bass control is the 1MC pot, and the middle pot (tone) is a regular 250K audio taper pot. Easily found as a push/pull pot.

Cheers!

P.S.: When I was talking about detecting the "difference", I was talking about the difference in the schematic diagram on that post.

[fourstringbliss]

Originally Posted by SGD Lutherie

47K Ohm 1/4-Watt Carbon Film Resistor (5-Pack) - RadioShack.com

You don't ned 1/8th watt resistors. 1/4 watt are plenty small.

I didn't know that...