How do I do this?

KingRazor · #1 01-25-2011, 08:21 AM

I want to convert my active bass into a passive bass, but I don't really know what to do with what's in front of me.

Here's a pic of my bass's guts:

What am I going to have to remove and how do I remove it "safely"? (I'm not too worried about myself but I'd rather not damage the electronics)

Once I've removed what needs to be removed, what am I going to have to replace?

Rumblefisher · #2 01-25-2011, 08:23 AM

Probably going to need to remove the preamp you're holding, and all the excess wire removing that will give you.

I think the components of putting a passive layout together are fairly cheap...For example, Orange drops (which I keep reading are overkill for a bass) are $2. Maybe just rip it all out and start fresh?

KingRazor · #3 01-25-2011, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CFclef

Probably going to need to remove the preamp you're holding, and all the excess wire removing that will give you.

I think the components of putting a passive layout together are fairly cheap...For example, Orange drops (which I keep reading are overkill for a bass) are $2. Maybe just rip it all out and start fresh?

I was wondering if that might be the best way to go. Luckily pots and caps are just about the cheapest components of a bass, so I'm not to worried about that.

I've ripped the wiring out of a bass before, but it was a crude and violent process, and something tells me there is a way to do this that's a little more civilized.

Edit: The wires are soldered to the pots right? Is there a way to "de-solder" them?

lbwdog · #4 01-25-2011, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CFclef

Maybe just rip it all out and start fresh?

Probably the best bet. Many active circuits use much different pot values. You need to make sure your pickups can be used passive too.

KingRazor · #5 01-25-2011, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lbwdog

Probably the best bet. Many active circuits use much different pot values. You need to make sure your pickups can be used passive too.

I'm almost certain they can be, I've asked a few owners of Ibanez basses and they said they were able to run their basses passive.

Plus, Ibanez' website lists them as passive pickups with an active pre, unlike EMG actives where the pre is built into the pickups.

musicelectronix · #6 01-25-2011, 08:31 AM

Do you know if your pickups active? If so, I advice you to leave it alone and get a passive bass.

If not, you need to replace everything but the pickups and the output jack. Wiring information for passive basses (take your pickup configuration into account) is a simple google image search away.

KingRazor · #7 01-25-2011, 08:34 AM

As I said in my post above, the pickups themselves are not active. Thus I *should* be able to run this passive.

That's one of the things I was wondering was whether or not I would have to replace the jack.

I think I'm going to go ahead and get some CTS 500k pots. The knobs on this bass use screws so I assume that means I'll need solid-shaft pots. Not sure what the diameter is of the pots inside it now.

I'm still wondering: Do I have to just rip the wires off? Will this damage any of the electronics? Is there a way to detach them without having to violently rip them out?

musicelectronix · #8 01-25-2011, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingRazor

As I said in my post above, the pickups themselves are not active. Thus I *should* be able to run this passive.

That's one of the things I was wondering was whether or not I would have to replace the jack.

I think I'm going to go ahead and get some CTS 500k pots. The knobs on this bass use screws so I assume that means I'll need solid-shaft pots. Not sure what the diameter is of the pots inside it now.

I'm still wondering: Do I have to just rip the wires off? Will this damage any of the electronics? Is there a way to detach them without having to violently rip them out?

Ibanez should be using 6mm shaft width, but a 1/4" one should work fine (maybe you might need to replace the knobs if you use 1/4, so get 6mm ones. They usually advertise it as pots for "import" basses). Inside (case) diameter does not matter, but shaft length might. I would measure it beforehand. You want shafts the protrude just enough for the knobs. Otherwise you might end up with mushroom looking knobs or no knobs at all.

Cut the pickup wires leaving only 1" from where they are connected to the preamp circuit, so you can put the preamp back easily if you want in the future (it would be a matter of just matching the color coded wires).

You are gonna wire the jack as if it is a mono jack. That means, you will leave the lug where the battery is connected unconnected (black wire from the battery).

KingRazor · #9 01-25-2011, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by musicelectronix

Ibanez should be using 6mm shaft width, but a 1/4" one should work fine (maybe you might need to replace the knobs if you use 1/4, so get 6mm ones. They usually advertise it as pots for "import" basses). Inside (case) diameter does not matter, but shaft length might. I would measure it beforehand. You want shafts the protrude just enough for the knobs. Otherwise you might end up with mushroom looking knobs or no knobs at all.

Cut the pickup wires leaving only 1" from where they are connected to the preamp circuit, so you can put the preamp back easily if you want in the future (it would be a matter of just matching the color coded wires).

You are gonna wire the jack as if it is a mono jack. That means, you will leave the lug where the battery is connected unconnected (black wire from the battery).

Do you know if CTS makes pots in that size? Allparts doesn't appear to have any 6mm pots.

Edit: Should I be looking at "mini" pots, perhaps?

**line6man** · #10 01-25-2011, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CFclef

Orange drops (which I keep reading are overkill for a bass)

How and why would they be "overkill?"

A capacitor is a capacitor. You use them to form a LPF in most passive instruments. Nothing wild and over the top about that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingRazor

I'm still wondering: Do I have to just rip the wires off? Will this damage any of the electronics? Is there a way to detach them without having to violently rip them out?

You desolder them.

If you try to forcibly break soldered connections, you are just going to destroy everything.

KingRazor · #11 01-25-2011, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by line6man

How and why would they be "overkill?"

A capacitor is a capacitor. You use them to form a LPF in most passive instruments. Nothing wild and over the top about that.

You desolder them.

If you try to forcibly break soldered connections, you are just going to destroy everything.

Ok, I've never even touched a soldering iron so I don't know much about them. How do I desolder something?

**line6man** · #12 01-25-2011, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingRazor

Ok, I've never even touched a soldering iron so I don't know much about them. How do I desolder something?

Touch the iron to the solder joint until the solder melts, then pull the pieces apart.

lbwdog · #13 01-25-2011, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingRazor

Ok, I've never even touched a soldering iron so I don't know much about them. How do I desolder something?

OY VEY!

Just take one of your knobs with you when shopping for new pots.

KingRazor · #14 01-25-2011, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lbwdog

OY VEY!

Just take one of your knobs with you when shopping for new pots.

You know, I think I'll do just that.

Rumblefisher · #15 01-25-2011, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by line6man

How and why would they be "overkill?"

A capacitor is a capacitor. You use them to form a LPF in most passive instruments. Nothing wild and over the top about that.

Not saying that they are. Just saying that's what I've read here on TB. For what it's worth, I know that Fender uses penny ceramics...but seriously, I know...we're talking 2 bucks here

KingRazor · #16 01-25-2011, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CFclef

Not saying that they are. Just saying that's what I've read here on TB. For what it's worth, I know that Fender uses penny ceramics...but seriously, I know...we're talking 2 bucks here

Even if I can't hear the difference, I don't mind paying a little more for parts that are considered better quality, especially at this price point.

I might get a few caps just to experiment. Not sure whether I'll like a .1, a .047, or a .022 best. I know those aren't the only options but I doubt I'll want one lower or higher than those.

I like my bass pretty warm, so I'm thinking I'll probably go with a higher value cap.

KingRazor · #17 01-25-2011, 12:54 PM

Any suggestions on what to look for for a series/parallel switch? I don't want to do a push/pull because I need something to fill up the extra hole that will be left over when I convert to a vol/pan/tone setup.

JMDT · #18 01-25-2011, 01:33 PM

The pickups in that soundgear are split coil like a Precision pickup inside. Series/parallel is prolly not worth it honestly and depending on how the pickups are wired from the factory may not be possible.

If you have an extra hole, you can look at a varitone circuit for more passive tone control. There are only so many passive options

Ultimately, I think you will want to put a bypassable bass/treble stack in that last hole. After tinkering with a number of diffrent setups, V/V/T + the B/T stack is the best setup I've worked with. You can set it up so that a push/pull pot on the volume or tone knob activates/bypasses said stack knob. The Ibanez split coil pickups sometimes need a bit of a bass boost to really shine.

Just my 2 cents from exploring a way to make the same bass 'better'.

KingRazor · #19 01-25-2011, 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JMDT

The pickups in that soundgear are split coil like a Precision pickup inside. Series/parallel is prolly not worth it honestly and depending on how the pickups are wired from the factory may not be possible.

If you have an extra hole, you can look at a varitone circuit for more passive tone control. There are only so many passive options

Ultimately, I think you will want to put a bypassable bass/treble stack in that last hole. After tinkering with a number of diffrent setups, V/V/T + the B/T stack is the best setup I've worked with. You can set it up so that a push/pull pot on the volume or tone knob activates/bypasses said stack knob. The Ibanez split coil pickups sometimes need a bit of a bass boost to really shine.

Just my 2 cents from exploring a way to make the same bass 'better'.

I'd rather have an empty hole than a bass/treble stack. It already has one of those and I hate it. A 2-band bass/treble
EQ would be my last choice out of any possible onboard EQ setup.

I might just put some black tape over the hole from the inside of the cavity.

Edit: Or I could just do two tone knobs. Pretty redundant, but if it's just for the purpose of filling an extra hole I don't really mind.

JMDT · #20 01-25-2011, 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingRazor

I'd rather have an empty hole than a bass/treble stack. It already has one of those and I hate it. A 2-band bass/treble
EQ would be my last choice out of any possible onboard EQ setup.

I might just put some black tape over the hole from the inside of the cavity.

Edit: Or I could just do two tone knobs. Pretty redundant, but if it's just for the purpose of filling an extra hole I don't really mind.

That particular pre in the Ibanez is the single worst I've used. From the day I bought my Soundgear, I planned to get rid of the evil thing. I'd definately recommend looking at another pre before giving up on them completely. A high quility pre can sound very nice.