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  #81  
Old 01-28-2013, 06:07 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Brice Z6 fretless spalted maple 3,8mA
Brice Z6 fretless Trans Blue 0,31mA cool running bass. Obviously a different preamp or problem on the spalted maple.

Tune Maniac 4 and 5 string ( Korean ) 3 by LF442 1mA

Yamaha RBX800A 4,5mA at 16V(*)

Ibanez SR706 and SR705 ( Korean ) 1mA

Custom 7 string bass ( Korean ) 7,2mA at 18V ( now 16V )

( *) Fabricated a battery eliminator for all the active basses, ( additional 7 basses over the above ) supplies 16V DC. Not all increased current draw at the elevated supply rail. Caveat, watch out for tantalum capacitors in preamps. They do not take kindly to reverse polarity, including a series diode in the supply line of some preamps. You will actually have a supply rail of minus 0,6V ( -0,6VDC ) on the down stream load of the reverse biased diode, enough to nuke a vulnerable Tantalum capacitor ( internal short circuit is first fail condition and then overheat to open circuit if enough power supply grunt ). Also over volting a tantalum is another no no. 18V is not a usual rating for tants, 16V usual maybe 25 and then 35V working volts, plus or minus feed impedance to the capy, for actual supply on capy terminals.

HTH.

Last edited by Eight_Stringer : 01-28-2013 at 06:12 PM.
  #82  
Old 05-05-2013, 02:50 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Moscow, Russia
Quote:
Originally Posted by mizu View Post
I've just measured the current draw on my Cirrus and Millennium Plus.
Both USA made, both have same preamps with sweepable mid.

Cirrus: 9.8 mA
Millennium Plus: 1.2 mA

Looks like those VFL pickups are real power hogs
Yup, it's the pickups. Got tired of changing batteries montly, so had decided to have a closer look at the issue. And it turned out that the newer, circa 2008 Cirrus VFL pickups draw 4,7 mA each.
Interestingly enough, I have an older pickup from a production model Cirrus made in late 90s and it draws only 0,3 mA. Go figure
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  #83  
Old 05-05-2013, 02:55 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Serbia
Hey guys, anybody have an idea how much current one Tillman draws? Thanks
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Originally Posted by jason weatherby View Post
Jesus would have played a P bass. The foundation. The cornerstone. The ROCK !
That being said, P bass is the worst bass ever. It's true because I say so.
  #84  
Old 05-05-2013, 09:02 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: San Diego
Quote:
Originally Posted by InternetAlias View Post
Hey guys, anybody have an idea how much current one Tillman draws? Thanks
After 2 years the battery reads at 8.7V. Mine has the J201 and I used a variable resistor for the drain to bias it to 4.5V. I play the bass almost daily. I don't know the science of this but I think its a combination of using a switching jack, biasing it to half the supply voltage, and not adding the boosting cap option is why the current draw is so low. Plus the Tillman has a really hot output even without the boost option and increasing the supply voltage makes it hotter
  #85  
Old 05-06-2013, 03:13 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Serbia
How does one change the drain? I probably just need to put a resistor somewhere, but where, is it the one between the battery and transistor? I didn't actually expect someone to reply so soon, it's good to know it can last a while, thanks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason weatherby View Post
Jesus would have played a P bass. The foundation. The cornerstone. The ROCK !
That being said, P bass is the worst bass ever. It's true because I say so.
  #86  
Old 05-06-2013, 08:35 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: San Diego
Quote:
Originally Posted by InternetAlias View Post
How does one change the drain? I probably just need to put a resistor somewhere, but where, is it the one between the battery and transistor? I didn't actually expect someone to reply so soon, it's good to know it can last a while, thanks
The drain is R2 (2.2K) on the Tillman schematic. You can put a variable resistor there to bias the transistor to half the battery voltage. I found it to sound better that way. or you can just put in a 2.2K resistor there.
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