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View Poll Results: How should I wire my bass?
a) Mono, DiMarzio P/Mike Lull T w/ master tone 0 0%
b) Stereo, mudbucker and P/J, coil tap, in/out of phase switch 0 0%
c) Stereo, Gibson-style humbuggys and Will Power P, coil-tap, series/parallel switches 1 33.33%
d) Stereo, P pickup and Rickenbacker Hi-gain/HB-1 pickups with coil tap and capacitor switches 2 66.67%
e) (please specify) 0 0%
Voters: 3. You may not vote on this poll

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  #1  
Old 11-30-2009, 10:51 PM
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I got inspired...

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...to do a little more work on my Hamer. It's just the first of many steps to get the bass I want. I glued the new nut on. It's a little thinner than the other one, but it'll work. Now, I'm not a pro at this, I'm just messing around. I'd really appreciate any pointers, advice, or comments about this. This bass is kind of an ugly, beat-up bird, but I guess that's why I like it so much.

So, I installed a 3-way toggle and another mini switch. They're just placeholders. I am going to install another DiMarzio on/on switch and a DiMarzio 3-way switch (with a chrome or creme cap...haven't decided). Right now, the P pickup is wired to a volume pot and series/parallel switch and the J pickup to just a volume pot, each pickup into its own output. I'm not sure exactly what I want to do from here on out. My goal is that before I put a new bridge on it, I want to do a complete electronics overhaul. New jacks, pickups, switches, knobs, shielding, everything. I want to have a completely new bass and I want it to use all of the knobs and switches and pickups and things that I have in it--this is the final setup, but how its wired is still undecided. I want it to be a real hot, hot rod (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haRYEDIM26M ).



Carvin sells these cool jackplates that are interchangeable--the mono and stereo plates have the same footprint and mounting screw patterns.
http://www.carvinguitars.com/product...ct=JP1C&cid=43
http://www.carvinguitars.com/product...ct=JP2C&cid=43

I want to use one of these with mono Switchcraft jacks instead of the deep-panel jacks that are currently on my bass. That'll mean having to drill more wood out and mounting the plate perfectly because it'll just barely fit between the bevels.

If I go mono, I'll wire each pickup (DiMarzio P of some kind. I'd like to use a Mike Lull T-bird pickup and Will Power P. Unfortunately, the Will Power P don't come in white/creme, which I prefer on a dark-colored bass, so maybe I'll keep the Model P that's in there or put in a Split P) into a coil tap, volume pots, the master tone (probably .47 uf), the three-way toggle switch, then to a mono jack.

If I go stereo, I don't know how I'll fit that 3-way switch into the equation. I know Rickenbacker does it between just two pickups, but their wiring harnesses are fuggin complicated and I don't think it's quite how I want to go about this. What I'm thinking is that I could add another pickup in the neck position, which could open up some interesting possibilities. This way, I could have two basses in one.

Here are my ideas.
a) Wire it mono, like I described above.
b) Get a mudbucker in the neck, then make it an EB-0+P/J bass with the mudbucker going into a coil tap going into a volume control going into an output. The P/J pickups would go into an in/out of phase switch (or I could just have the P pickup go to a series/parallel switch like it is now), into the 3-way, then to their own output. No tone pot, just a volume knob for each pickup. I would probably use DiMarzio Model One, Model P, and Model J for this setup. I might try an Area J.
c) Put T-bird pickups in it (or maybe a T-bird pickup in the bridge and a Rio Grande chrome Pitbull in the neck) and have the T-bird pickups go to their volumes, the 3-way, to an output and the P pickup will go to its volume pot and output jack. Also no tone pot in this setup. I'd use a Pitbull, a Mike Lull T-Bird pickup, and a DiMarzio Will Power P or maybe an Area J in P housings.
d) Put a Rickenbacker Hi-gain treble pickup and its assembly into the bridge position, a DiMarzio P pickup, and a Rickenbacker HB-1 in. The P pickup would go straight to its volume control, then to an output. The HB-1 would go to a coil tap switch and into its volume pot. The Hi-gain would go to a switch that does what the push/pull pot on the 4003 does--switch on or off a .47 uf cap, then it'll go to its volume knob. The HB-1 and Hi-gain will both go to the 3-way toggle and into the other output.
e)....? Do you have another suggestion? Tips? Ideas? Does this make any sense?

When possible, I'll use creme P/J pickups, as long as they match. I wish the Will Power Ps came in creme housings. In all cases, I want to retrofit the stock Hamer knobs with large J bass knobs, replace the pots with DiMarzio 500K pots, and use DiMarzio components wherever I can because I can.
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  #2  
Old 11-30-2009, 10:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chowderboots View Post
I want to use one of these with mono Switchcraft jacks instead of the deep-panel jacks that are currently on my bass.
I'm sure this is crossing more into personal preference, but why do you want a jack plate instead of the deep panel jacks?

Jack plates are unnecessary extra pieces of hardware.
  #3  
Old 11-30-2009, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by line6man View Post
I'm sure this is crossing more into personal preference, but why do you want a jack plate instead of the deep panel jacks?

Jack plates are unnecessary extra pieces of hardware.
I think the deep panel jacks are a lot nicer-looking and more solid than the dinky jacks that are on most basses. However, this bass is an exception due to two reasons, me and the bass. Me because when I drilled the hole for the second jack, I didn't do a very good job and if I use a jack plate and separate jacks, then I can make the bass look like new by covering up my poor wood work. It isn't noticeable until you really look hard at the jacks in relation to one another, but it just bothers me. Plus they're slightly different because one's from the early 80s and the other is about a year old and I want to give this bass a bit of a rebirth.

The other thing is that the cavity wasn't routed with a second jack in mind. It veers away from the edge of the bass leaving a deep panel jack little room to poke out into the cavity. I had to carve away a section of the cavity's wall in order to get the nut to thread in order to mount the jack. Also, deep panel jacks are deep. The controls are already pretty close together in the cavity and the deep panel jacks eat into real estate in the cavity that I could fill up with knobs and switches!

Using the standard Switchcraft mono jacks isn't necessary, but it ties up a couple loose ends and will make this bass a lot tidier looking. The other thing that I mentioned in my other post is that Carvin's mono and stereo jackplates are interchangeable. If I carve out enough room behind the plate for jacks mounted on either plate to fit, not only will it look neater than two deep panel jacks in this case, but I can change whether I want one or two jacks relatively easily. Since I haven't decided and I tend to go with my whims, I think the Carvin jackplates sound like the best hardware for this particular instrument.
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