Jazz bass Series/Paralell in the TONE POT
 

Hi!

I've been looking and searching but I can't seem to find the correct diagram!

I want to change my jazz bass electronics to a V/V/T with a series /paralell push/pull pot but located in the tone pot.

Is this doable? can someone help me with the correct diagram?
Because all the diagrams I've found located the push/pull pot at the neck pickup volume pot and I rather have it at the tone pot, even if the neck pickup volumepot becomes master volume when the push/pull is switched to series...


Thanks!

This is exactly how I wired up my Jazz. The diagram shows the switch on the volume knab, but if you're clever you can just transpose it.

Seymour Duncan: Jazz with series/parallel.

Sorry, I just like to show it off:
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f8/sho...l#post13543755

It doesn't matter where the switch is, since the wires on the switch don't interact with the volume controls directly, but end up in the same place afterwards. Just pretend in the schematic that the switch body is on the tone control and wire it the same way.

I feel retarded now... So all I have to do is wire it as the diagram shows... the only diference being that the "body" (the 6 pin Thing under the push/pull pot) of the push pull will be located in the third pot instead of the first??

Exactly.

Kudos!

Fast question, fast answer. You make talkbass what it is!

Yeah. Make sure not to do it upside-down like I did. My guitar and Jazz are parallel when pulled, my ESP is parallel when pushed. Whatevs. As long as I know.

which pot to use?
 

When you guys do this mod do you replace your pot with a linear or audio taper pot? and do you usually use a 250 or 500k? Thanks!

500k Ω, personally. I'm at the point at which I may replace the volume knabs with switches. On or off, amirite?

I've done this mod on my jazz bass. I originally installed a 500k thinking it would add some nice high end to the series position. But it just ended up sounding brittle in parallel and didnt add much to series to warrant the birttleness. Changed it back to a 250k push-pull and it was much warmer. The mod is permenant now :smug:

You might just want to use a single 3-way switch instead of the two individual switches, for switching neck-parallel-bridge. Or a 4-position rotary that'll do series-neck-parallel-bridge for variety.

No way. Ain't no one got three switches. ;)

+1 This hit it right on the nail