Jazz Shielding Pictorial (Big Images Warning)

[Lyle Caldwell]

I don't remember if it was stewmac.com or basspartsresource.com. Both carry the foil and I've used both.

It's not that hard to work with, as long as you double check your measurements before cutting. You can use kitchen scissors to cut it and an exacto for any tricky little cuts. Just remember not to run your finger down the edge, as it will slice and dice you.

[growlngrind]

Originally Posted by Lyle Caldwell

I don't remember if it was stewmac.com or basspartsresource.com. Both carry the foil and I've used both.

It's not that hard to work with, as long as you double check your measurements before cutting. You can use kitchen scissors to cut it and an exacto for any tricky little cuts. Just remember not to run your finger down the edge, as it will slice and dice you.

Hey Lyle, did you ever replace the pickups? Any more photos?

[Lyle Caldwell]

Not yet. I keep meaning to. I guess I should, after this hoopla. Stay tuned. <g>

[LoveThatBass]

You may wish to modify this circuit for your purposes with the Blend pot but this is how my S-1 is wired in my MIA Jazz.
http://www.fenderforum.com/userphoto...ml?recid=17292

[Lyle Caldwell]

Thanks, that's similar to what I'll be doing, though I'll be bypassing the Blend pot when in series and putting a resistor in the circuit to more closely match the output levels.

[silky smoove]

Quick question for those of you more experienced at this sort of thing than me (should be most of you )

I noticed that you [Lyle] didn't put any shielding copper on the underside of the control plate. Does the metal of the control plate (I'm assuming its aluminum) provide enough protection that this would be uneccessary?

[Mo'Phat]

Originally Posted by Lyle Caldwell

This pic shows how there's a little copper tab that is soldered to the shielding and screwed down to the body. The control plate is screwed down onto this tab in the same manner as the bridge ground is screwed down. I don't really think adding copper to the underside of the control plate would help anymore than this.

[jointus]

And here's a link about shielding: guitarnuts

[Lyle Caldwell]

Originally Posted by silky smoove

Does the metal of the control plate (I'm assuming its aluminum) provide enough protection that this would be uneccessary?

It's steel actually, and quite conductive, so as long as it makes good contact with the copper foil it becomes a part of the shield.

[43apples]

Hmm, when i get the materials, my new pickups and stuff, i'll try to shield my Ibanez using these instructions!

Awesome walktrough, i appreciate it!

-Erlend

[Rodent]

Hey Lyle,

Curious on your thoughts for attaching the ground wires via screw vs directly soldering the wire group to the sheilding. FWIW I currently utilize the direct solder method so that I'm assured of always having a solid ground.

R

[i_got_a_mohawk]

Will a screw not just guarantee a better connection where the solder joint could become dry ?

[43apples]

Good question! I suppose that using a screw gives a more sturdy connection, without having the risk that the solder would flake off or something like that... i don't know

[Rodent]

Originally Posted by i_got_a_mohawk

Will a screw not just guarantee a better connection where the solder joint could become dry ?

Possibly ... I currently solder the entire perimiter along the joint where the cavity bottom and side join, and include about 3/4" length of grounding wire in this seam. This may be a bit of overkill, but I'd rather add 3-4 minutes of production soldering to ensure that I have a good, secure ground that won't fail a year or so down the road.

R

[Mo'Phat]

Just do both...screw it down, then solder the screw.

I wouldn't think the screw would come loose, since there's 50 or so screws on a normal bass that don't regularly come loose, whereas I've knocked solder joints loose just by banging away a little too exuberantly.

[Lyle Caldwell]

The solder joint (to shielding) could detach from the copper, or the weight of the wires and solder could pull the copper away from the cavity wall.

I solder the wires to the ground lug, then screw the lug into the cavity wall through the shield. Then I check with my meter. If the shield to the screw to the lug all reads 0 ohms potential, then further soldering is unneccesary.

[Audiophage]

This is interesting to me, I think that this is exactly what my '77 Jazz needs. My only problem is that I really have no experience with wiring and soldering. Should I try this myself(maybe with first experimenting on a cheaper bass of similar construction) or get a professional to do it?

[mike_odonovan]

I want to incorporate this shielding system into a preamp setup.
Should the the grounds from the pickups still be the only ones soldered the control cavity?
and all other grounds ie. volume pots and preamp grounds to the jack?
why do have to ground the bridge?

[mike_odonovan]

also if using paint should i solder a wire from the control plate the shield?
with the paint i don't think i could get the copper edges touching the control plate effect.

[Lyle Caldwell]

Originally Posted by Audiophage

This is interesting to me, I think that this is exactly what my '77 Jazz needs. My only problem is that I really have no experience with wiring and soldering. Should I try this myself(maybe with first experimenting on a cheaper bass of similar construction) or get a professional to do it?

I would say carefull desolder and remove the original pots and control plate, in case you ever want to sell to a collector. Buy new pots, control plate, knobs, etc. Then try to do it yourself. The advantage of copper shielding over shielding paint is that you can remove it if needed. So you won't screw your bass up.

And if it all collapses on you, you can always take it to a pro, but your mistakes wouldn't have ruined the original pots.