Go Back   TalkBass Forums > Bass Guitar Forums > Bass Guitar Forums > Pickups & Electronics [BG]
Register Rules/FAQ/CUP Members List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read



Supporting Membership
Thank You

Latest Supporting Member
Donate to Upgrade Today

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 12-01-2011, 05:12 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: James Island/Charleston SC
L2000 single coil mod help

Sign in to disble this ad
Hey guys,

My Father in law Bob and i were trying to set up the series-single coil outside-parallel modification on my l2000 and we got a little bit stumped. I have been able to find a bunch of threads about this stuff but none really answered my question.

My bass matches up perfectly with this first diagram



Everything makes sense on that diagram. When we get to the "after" diagram we are getting confused. It may be because it is modded for the aguilar pre amp.... (also the controls are switched all around):



So my questions are:

1) Are the only modifications that need to be done on the new series/coil/par switch or do things need to be changed on the other switches as well?

2) There seems to be an added red wire going to the volume pot that wasn't there before. Is that a mistake/ do we need to worry about it?

3) Do 2 green wires need to be added to the entire assembly?

4) Are there any blatant instructions for the outer single coil mod (ie. connect yellow wire from neck pup to post 2b)?

As you can see I do not have loads of experience with this stuff but Bob works on HAM radios and stuff all the time so he is pretty good. I think once we see exactly what we are doing we will not have any problems doing the labor but I am VERY reluctant to screw the thing up (although it all seems reversible)

Thanks for any help and I bow down to all the G&L enthusiasts that have knowledge of this stuff. Your assistance is greatly appreciated.

This was below the after diagram:

Below is a diagram of the circuit I used. It MUST be noted that I did not use the G&L preamp, so the arrow pointing off to the volume control is incorrect if the G&L preamp will be retained. The pickup selector switch is only shown here for the purpose of providing a "destination" of sorts for the leads coming off the series/single/parallel switch.

What you'd then do is carefully desolder and lift out your current series/parallel switch. Leave everything else as-is. Then solder in the new series/single/parallel switch. Be sure that the shank keyway (that little slot) is oriented toward the neck.

Good luck!

Ken...
  #2  
Old 12-01-2011, 07:18 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by kellyrojo View Post
Hey guys,

So my questions are:

1) Are the only modifications that need to be done on the new series/coil/par switch or do things need to be changed on the other switches as well?

2) There seems to be an added red wire going to the volume pot that wasn't there before. Is that a mistake/ do we need to worry about it?

3) Do 2 green wires need to be added to the entire assembly?

4) Are there any blatant instructions for the outer single coil mod (ie. connect yellow wire from neck pup to post 2b)?

As you can see I do not have loads of experience with this stuff but Bob works on HAM radios and stuff all the time so he is pretty good. I think once we see exactly what we are doing we will not have any problems doing the labor but I am VERY reluctant to screw the thing up (although it all seems reversible)

Thanks for any help and I bow down to all the G&L enthusiasts that have knowledge of this stuff. Your assistance is greatly appreciated.
====
Below is a diagram of the circuit I used. It MUST be noted that I did not use the G&L preamp, so the arrow pointing off to the volume control is incorrect if the G&L preamp will be retained. The pickup selector switch is only shown here for the purpose of providing a "destination" of sorts for the leads coming off the series/single/parallel switch.

What you'd then do is carefully desolder and lift out your current series/parallel switch. Leave everything else as-is. Then solder in the new series/single/parallel switch. Be sure that the shank keyway (that little slot) is oriented toward the neck.

Good luck!

Ken...
[/b]
1. you only have to deal with rewiring the series parallel switch. You need to change that switch from an On-none-on type (2 pos) to a On-On-ON 3 way type. Note it is NOT an On-Off-On type. Wire new switch according to second diagram.

2. Note the upper diagram is the way the bass is now. The lower one has the bass modded to have no passive tone controls and a different preamp. But the dividing point is the pickup selector switch. Everything that comes after that is independent and a separate issue from the K-mod switch. Basically the yellow wire in the original diagram and the red wire in the second one are the SAME wire which is the output wire of the pickups and switches that will either feed the original passive tone circuits or in the second case just feed a preamp or volume control. Like I said everything that comes after that selector switch is a separate issue.

3. Yes. There are two additional ground wires (green) that will go to the switch after the mod that weren't there originally. These ground wires go to the same place the pickups are grounded (their green wires).

4. Just wire the series/single/parallel switch and pickup selector switch as shown. And what is shown as the red wire to volume, in yours would actually be the yellow wire coming from the passive tone pots. should be fine.

One last thing is that I THINK this diagram is the "outside coil" mod. The switch can also be wired a different way that gives you "inside coils" when in single. I'm not sure which is which here.

To test what you've got once you get it working, get a paper clip or tiny screwdriver. With selector in center and series/single/parallel in either series or parallel tap on poles all 4 rows should be active. If you select neck, both rows on neck pickup should be active and bridge should be off. Select bridge and the reverse should be true.

If you select both and "single" now only two rows of poles will be active. Hopefully, the row closest the neck and the row closest the bridge. (termed "outside" coils) You will probablly still hear some pickup from the other two rows (there is some bleed-through) but it should be much less loud than the main coils. Finally select either bridge or neck and now only ONE row should be totally active according to the selection. And note. Using only neck or bridge alone will now give you single coil hum, so in this setting you may hear hum rise up until you select BOTH pickups on in single coil.

That's all there is to the K-mod. Now the deal with changing preamps, active-passive switching and all the rest is much more complex and another topic.

I just bought a new (to me) G&L L-2500 that I need to put this mod into myself. Feh. This isn't exactly a beginner project and lots of wires and tiny switch terminals that are kind of a pain, but I can also tell you (having put it in my other two G&Ls) that it it WORTH the trouble! Can give you a clarity of tone the humbucker settings never have.

Good luck to BOTH of us!

Last edited by bassbenj : 12-01-2011 at 07:20 PM.
  #3  
Old 12-01-2011, 07:45 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: James Island/Charleston SC
OK I think this will help! I'll talk to BOB and we go from there. Thanks for taking the time BenJ...I owe you a 6 pack of beer or your favorite bev!
  #4  
Old 12-02-2011, 12:37 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: James Island/Charleston SC
If anyone wants to add any other pointers to help me out feel free....I won't be insulted!
  #5  
Old 12-05-2011, 08:27 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Brooklyn, NY
On the badassbassplayers.com forum, there is a long treatise on this that includes multiple diagrams and descriptions. It's what I used to do that mod on my L2Ks, and it worked out fine. It also lists the part # from Digi-key for the needed switch. I'd send a link, but I'm blocked from that site here at work. I guess that bass porn is just too pornographic....
  #6  
Old 01-04-2012, 04:05 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: James Island/Charleston SC
What I learned after doing this:

1) Make sure you order from DigiKey not from another (I think I ordered from Mouser) company. My Mouser on on on switch worked but the top shield was indented making the arm too short to reach through the hole in the bass body.......so I had to take the shield off the old switch and assemble it on the new switch...a royal pain in the arse.

2) You will have to add 2 wires as "jumps" as you may see on the 2nd diagram.

3) We had an extra wire coming from the treble pot to the original ON/ON switch. We didn't see it anywhere in the 2nd diagram (it is that hand drawn one on the first diagram) and concluded that it was a ground that was made redundant by the new added wired. We could be wrong on that but we clipped the end of it and the bass sounds and works great.

4) For some reason the layout of the 2nd diagram is not the same as the first which you will figure out after a while...but why was it done like this? Just saying not complaining.

5) The single coil contrast to parallel will not be that obvious in a lo fi practice amp but plug in to a good rig and you can really here some added clarity and transparency.

6) It doesn't sound like a jazz bass now but kinda between a jazz and humbuckers.....a very cool sound indeed---unique and I will use it a lot.

Thanks for the help guys

Last edited by kellyrojo : 01-04-2012 at 04:07 PM.
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Follow TalkBass on Twitter   Visit TalkBass on Facebook  

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:56 PM.




Copyright 2011 Talk Music Group Inc. All rights reserved.
Play guitar? Visit our new sister site TalkGuitar.com [beta]
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.12
Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.